Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

[home made tunnel]

Just for thought...and a pinch of caution.

If it were me I would swap out the surface gap plugs for a conventional gap spark plug of correct heat range for your motor.

James

A very good suggestion and I'll take your word on it - Now to find an equivalent spark plug or online conversion... NGK BUHW are the surface gap plugs I have now.

[home made tunnel]

Machining the upper engine mount myself... Ya know, cuz they don't make one for this engine haha. I've never done this before. Feed speed, rpm, coolant/oil drops, all experimental learning experiences. etc etc etc.
still need to figure out the radius around the driveshaft.

[home made tunnel]

Got some new plugs to try. They don't stick out too far- the autolite equivalent of ngk with the traditional gap.

[NICE PAIR]

Machining the upper engine mount myself... Ya know, cuz they don't make one for this engine haha. I've never done this before. Feed speed, rpm, coolant/oil drops, all experimental learning experiences. etc etc etc.
still need to figure out the radius around the driveshaft.

Attachment 346808

[FUJIMO]

Just had to take the reed block off to get the rod out. A magnet helped to get all 16 roller bearings out after they dropped though.

If you did this, you should now throw away all the needle bearings you touched with the magnet. Since they are now magnetized, they will not rotate when running. Might last a while, might not. Buy new ones. Cranks are expensive. Paper towel or rag lint can do the same thing. Cleanliness is everything when reassembling a two stroke.

[olboatman]

Ya know Tunnel...... I wish I still had the drive that you have!!!!! This thread has been one of the most entertaining and informative threads in a while. Keep up the great work and we are here with ya all the way. Gary

[Robby321]

If you did this, you should now throw away all the needle bearings you touched with the magnet. Since they are now magnetized, they will not rotate when running. Might last a while, might not. Buy new ones. Cranks are expensive. Paper towel or rag lint can do the same thing. Cleanliness is everything when reassembling a two stroke.

Not discounting your knowledge, but I'm not sure on this as heard that before. But its easy to check anyway. super clean all off (needles) and dump them on a sheet of glass and see if any attract each other. If so, trash'em. But SPOT on is "Cleanliness" as said as one piece lint? One speck of metal? Not gonna last. One stops rolling? Kiss the rod good bye! But I DO suggest used, toss'em. Cheap INS for the motor and life it!

[Robby321]

Machining the upper engine mount myself... Ya know, cuz they don't make one for this engine haha. I've never done this before. Feed speed, rpm, coolant/oil drops, all experimental learning experiences. etc etc etc.
still need to figure out the radius around the driveshaft.

Well, gotta give ya a lot of "creds" that work! As a 21 year Journeyman tool and die Machinist, ya doing fine! And mastering a a compound slide vice using a drill press? Not that easy as so much slack in the acme threads, that you probably know, that must be taken out before feeding or will grab the End Mill. And have to feed into clockwise direction cutter. Too bad not live near me as I have a small Machine shop in the "shop", Lathe, Mills and HUNDREDS End mills! Ya need a end mill, ask me for one before spending more money and send it to ya for free. I'll never use them up and rather give any needed to another here.
Gonna have to give a ya "A+" on "apprentice Machinist"! Your HIRED!

Damn gearheads, always thinking, and never say.."it can't be done? BS!

OH YEAH.. RADIUS? I have a tilt table fixture for that mill, but look into a "Ball End Mill" for that. Or just slam it on a belt sander. Even a hand held will work fine. But put a respirator on Alum dust, as it the main ingredient in deodorant (Alum Oxide). Trust me as worked Reynolds Aluminum and will block ya up. Ball end mill image.

[home made tunnel]

If you did this, you should now throw away all the needle bearings you touched with the magnet. Since they are now magnetized, they will not rotate when running. Might last a while, might not. Buy new ones. Cranks are expensive. Paper towel or rag lint can do the same thing. Cleanliness is everything when reassembling a two stroke.

I did a neat trick - - - I put them in some aluminum channel, and hit it with a propane torch to heat them up a little bit - Heating removes all the magnetism. After I did this, and let them cool in the air, they were de-magnetized. Threw them in and crossing my fingers they'll be ok. Super cleaned though - - -

Ya know Tunnel...... I wish I still had the drive that you have!!!!! This thread has been one of the most entertaining and informative threads in a while. Keep up the great work and we are here with ya all the way. Gary

Thanks Gary! I like working on stuff just as much as I like using it - - - I'm wondering when it will balance out though haha. A lot more hours into working on it than using it so far.

Well, gotta give ya a lot of "creds" that work! As a 21 year Journeyman tool and die Machinist, ya doing fine! And mastering a a compound slide vice using a drill press? Not that easy as so much slack in the acme threads, that you probably know, that must be taken out before feeding or will grab the End Mill. And have to feed into clockwise direction cutter. Too bad not live near me as I have a small Machine shop in the "shop", Lathe, Mills and HUNDREDS End mills! Ya need a end mill, ask me for one before spending more money and send it to ya for free. I'll never use them up and rather give any needed to another here.
Gonna have to give a ya "A+" on "apprentice Machinist"! Your HIRED!

Damn gearheads, always thinking, and never say.."it can't be done? BS!

OH YEAH.. RADIUS? I have a tilt table fixture for that mill, but look into a "Ball End Mill" for that. Or just slam it on a belt sander. Even a hand held will work fine. But put a respirator on Alum dust, as it the main ingredient in deodorant (Alum Oxide). Trust me as worked Reynolds Aluminum and will block ya up. Ball end mill image.

I WISH I HAD KNOWN THIS 2 WEEKS AGO BEFORE I ORDERED EVERYTHING HAHA. My learning experience with the 4 flute proved I didn't know how to machine . . .I destroyed that 4 flute!!! I figured it out by the time I used the 2 flute.... 3300rpm, a slow and steady feed speed, and letting the bit spin as to "bite" into the steel, rather than pushing away from where you're cutting... I guess you know what I mean if you're a machinist. The pictures I've put on Facebook about my machining learning experiences got a good laugh by my actual machinist friends... But Thanks for the compliments ! Not bad for a drill press and slide vise, eh?
So...
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Aluminum... $30. (McMaster)
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Slide vise... $40 (harbor freight).
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End Mills... $25 (various sizes).
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Learning I'm a novice at best machinist... Priceless!

[Robby321]

".I destroyed that 4 flute!!! I figured it out by the time I used the 2 flute.... 3300rpm, a slow and steady feed speed, and letting the bit spin as to "bite" into the steel, rather than pushing away from where you're cutting...

Thats what I was trying to say as play in the threads. If you push into it, it will grab and take the slack out and bite it way to much. Need to pull not push! Yep, a 2 flute best, PLUS? Take a carbide sharping stone and slightly dull the cutting edge (same with drill bits). Aluminum is soft, so it will cut just fine and really reduce the tendency to grab.. Plus with all the slop in a drill press, quill, vise, table is why so hard to do it that way. But with practice, it will happen. Ya just want everything solid as ya can. And use Kerosene for a lube also. If you get build up on the flutes, take just the stone and knock it off.

And as easy as it looks, Machinist work is a LOT more than I even thought long ago too! Even though I got A+ Machine shop as Auto shop HS. In the service, had MOS's as Truck Mech, Tank Mech, and Welder. Got hired later as a Apprentice Machinist. But had all the old salts helping me, showing me the proper way so not hurt myself or others. It was a great job as everyday it was something different! Heres a pic my "Smithy" I bought when got retired early and built my own shop.

[Robby321]

Oh yeah, on the radius part? All ya looking for is clearance, and take what ya can off end mill, then get a "Double Cut Burr" and a air pencil grinder and go at it. Do NOT try a single cut as will grab. Load it up Beeswax so it don't load up, and go at it. Just go easy and let the tool do the work. Then smooth it out belt sander. And time spent building it instead of using it? Well, your the same as me. I like building/making stuff, and seems 99 hours work for 1 hour on the water. But that what its all about right? "Pride of ownership made/built, not bought"!
Anyway, what ya need.
https://drillsandcutters.com/sa3-3-8...FQeRfgodVBIPQQ

[home made tunnel]

Well, she runs! finished the motor mount, got the new stator, trigger, and plugs in. Shaved head, 164psi on cyl #1, 166 on #2, 172 on #3. Timing set to 136* btdc.
Started her in the driveway and she runs! Going to the pond tomorrow after work.

[home made tunnel]

Ugh---- sideways pictures again?!?! Grrr
anyway, remeasures with solder and I've got about 0.08" of clearance head to piston top. SWEET!!! And it even sounds like it's running healthier.
Carbs have 0.076 for the top carb main jet, and 0.074 in the bottom two. Still can't find where to buy jets for these Tillitson WB carbs.
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Put some 93 octane fuel in, 40:1 oil mix (I know, #3 isn't broken in... oh well). i didn't thread lock the rod bolts either. Oh well haha. I never have in any motor I've ever built. And my 1/4" fuel re circulation hoses apparently were vaccum lines and not standing up to fuel. So I got some clear micro fuel hose (for weedwackers/chain saws). Really cool to watch the fuel and bubbles flowing through them when it's running ! ! !

[home made tunnel]

And a short video. First start!
https://youtu.be/mu6nq_xCZ24

[Robby321]