Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

[home made tunnel]

I'm loving all the knowledge on this site - I can't wait till it runs like a raped ape.
I've melted pistons in my Honda's 10+ years ago when I played with turbochargers on them and had no idea what ignition timing was. We used to make these things called "Det-Can's". We would take hard plastic refrigerator water hose, and thread the end onto a nut or bolt on the engine block. The other side of the hose, we'd run into the car, split at a "Y" and stick each of these into a hole we drilled into a set of Ear-Muffs. This let us hear the pinging of the engine exactly. I stopped blowing up Honda motors at that point, and tuned the timing way down. I had 400+hp out of a 1995 1.6L SOHC v-tech! That was a fun car. Blow up transmissions, and buy another at the scrap yard for $75. Have it swapped in 2 hours!

I'm going to check the timing before and after I swap the new trigger and stator, but I can't order them until I get paid this Friday. Had too much fun on the brother's sailboat this weekend. 3 day racing regatta down in the Chesapeake Bay. I'm very bruised, took a few tumbles, but overall after 3 days, we came in 1st place in our division ! That's me with the cool captain's hat on and the black shirt.

[home made tunnel]

Power head pulled. I used the old bend over and bear hug the motor out in lieu of a hoist lol. Only took 45 minutes. The other good news is that even without the head gasket the Pistons still clear the head. Maybe could have taken more than a tenth of ab inch.

[FMP]

You're going to bust the compression gauge. Get the solder out after you torque it. Get the rod out without taking the case off? Don't forget to smooth out those edges.

[home made tunnel]

Pics of the removed piston and sleeve. Looks like some damage on the exhaust relief side. I'm going to spin the honing stones and throw a new ring set in with the new piston.

[home made tunnel]

There's a hole in my bottom cylinder. Let the light shine through !!!! Back to the assembly line.

[home made tunnel]

You're going to bust the compression gauge. Get the solder out after you torque it. Get the rod out without taking the case off? Don't forget to smooth out those edges.

Just had to take the reed block off to get the rod out. A magnet helped to get all 16 roller bearings out after they dropped though.

[Robby321]

Dude you are ON A MISSION! The dedication so far this build JUST READING wears me out! "Damn gearheads!)..gotta luv'em!

[NICE PAIR]

Pics of the removed piston and sleeve. Looks like some damage on the exhaust relief side. I'm going to spin the honing stones and throw a new ring set in with the new piston.

Can't tell from pics, take a careful look @ your chamfer job, sharp edges eat pistons. ;-)

[home made tunnel]

Dude you are ON A MISSION! The dedication so far this build JUST READING wears me out! "Damn gearheads!)..gotta luv'em!

Us Gearheads are nuts haha. A friend of mine had a spare / junk VW car in his yard, and his daily driver needed a waterpump. So he yanked the motor out of the spare just to hijack the water pump off it haha. Yes, he pulled a motor for a waterpump haha.

Can't tell from pics, take a careful look @ your chamfer job, sharp edges eat pistons. ;-)

They don't show well in the picture, but they are slippery smooth / rounded. Just enough though. Hit those with a flap wheel sander/dremel when I did the porting. Maybe I'll hit them again.

[home made tunnel]

So in speaking with a few folks at CDI Electronics on the helpline, I have some insight into why I may have blown cyl 3. The Red merc stator that is on the motor now puts out about 1000 volts. The little candy bar adapter unit is actually a voltage reducer down to approximately 200volts. If this adapter isn't working properly, excessive voltage will leak through, and the ignition box can actually double-fire on a cylinder. So, firing order is 1,2,3...1,2,3...1,2,3.... What will happen is 1, 2&3, 3... 1&3, 2, 3... etc. So it is firing 2 cylinders at the same time.
Either way, I ordered up a new CDIelectronics Trigger and Stator.

More money! Yay.

I can't wait to put this piston back in and see what we get for compression now. """Rolling the dice, fingers crossed for 165psi+. I'm guessing it will still only be 150ish.

[FMP]

If you lay the block on its back when taking the rod cap off the rollers fall into the underside of the piston if your lucky. The other bores still have crosshatch? Did you fit the rings and measure end gap top cyl , above and bellow ports ?

[home made tunnel]

If you lay the block on its back when taking the rod cap off the rollers fall into the underside of the piston if your lucky. The other bores still have crosshatch? Did you fit the rings and measure end gap top cyl , above and bellow ports ?

Ya, that would be the easier way to catch the pins haha. I didn't have any trouble retrieving them though.
The other bores still have slight crosshatch, yes. Not very noticeable though.

The 1st time, the machine shop matched the pistons/sleeves/rings. I'm going to have to measure the endgap this time.

[FMP]

You know the other two should have very noticeable , only ten hrs . Just enough to knock the peaks off. WTF oil and gas did you use any ether quick start? How do the rollers cage and journal and cap look?

[home made tunnel]

My first attempt at machining with a slide vise and a chunk of aluminum for my upper motor mount is going to commense this afternoon. Also going to put the engine back together this afternoon - Now I need to figure out which jets to buy.
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Stock sizes are .076 on these WB style Tillotson carbs for sea level (0-2500').
Here is some basic info on the carbs: http://www.tillotson.ie/products-carb-float.php#TC790
Here is a plethora of info on jets: http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_identify_that_jet.htm
.
I don't know what jets to buy to try out - Which sizes, and what jets fit these Tillotson carbs? Where do you folks buy jets from?
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The good pistons did show a hot-chocolate coloring, and inside the bottoms. This shows a lean condition I believe. There was a coked black spot inside the bottom part of the piston @ the top. . I checked the old stock pistons, but they too had that coked on black spot -

[W2F a V-King]

So in speaking with a few folks at CDI Electronics on the helpline, I have some insight into why I may have blown cyl 3. The Red merc stator that is on the motor now puts out about 1000 volts. The little candy bar adapter unit is actually a voltage reducer down to approximately 200volts. If this adapter isn't working properly, excessive voltage will leak through, and the ignition box can actually double-fire on a cylinder. So, firing order is 1,2,3...1,2,3...1,2,3.... What will happen is 1, 2&3, 3... 1&3, 2, 3... etc. So it is firing 2 cylinders at the same time.
Either way, I ordered up a new CDIelectronics Trigger and Stator.

More money! Yay.

I can't wait to put this piston back in and see what we get for compression now. """Rolling the dice, fingers crossed for 165psi+. I'm guessing it will still only be 150ish.

Just for thought...and a pinch of caution.

If it were me I would swap out the surface gap plugs for a conventional gap spark plug of correct heat range for your motor.

These plugs will do two things for you for a new motor post rebuild.
#1 imho these are easier to read for basic tuning a/f ratios. They have a larger ceramic/porcelain area to read and will show if your to lean or to rich very quick.

#2 Again just my honest opinion and experience, these will be less likely to foul so easy. They will handle break in time better because with assembly lube and the double oil for break in, etc there is a lot of extra stuff to burn...they won't foul out as easy.

Once you have your a/f ratio set correctly...jetted right you can if you want, swap back to surface gap.

I have read elsewhere about the double fire issue, and agree with you replacing all the electronics...compared to the $$ you already have invested, consider it insurance.
Also I do agree with FMP to be sure and index your fly wheel and check timing on each cylinder. You will likely find some variation, and the set your max timing off the cylinder that is the most advanced.

You are a model of persistence, and I applaud your work!!
The harder the project, the sweeter the taste of success.

James