Yamaha 130 V4 Project Build.

[Mr. Demeanor]

I have a 30 pitch Drag 4 on the way for this weekends run. I ran one as a test before that was a 26 and the boat LOVED it. My engine height is so high having two blades in the water at all times really settled it down. It might be a very fast prop but I bought it for long runs.

[Mr. Demeanor]

If it aint one thing.....

This was NOT there and happened after just a few passes on Sunday. This is why you check and recheck your boat because this kind if thing will kill you.

[syclone01]

So what ya gona do?

[Mr. Demeanor]

Patch her up for the run this weekend and try to enjoy myself. I broken three Yamaha gearcases all right there. They just arent going to hold up to what I am doing. I would like to try running the torque tab all the way to the top welding the top of the torque tab to the bottom of the bullet. That would create a lot of stiffness. Maybe add some material in that area. That part of the skeg is out of the water anyway. I know we dont weld skegs.....but gotta try something and just keep a close eye on it.
Only other option is to try and adapt a sportmaster.

[Mr. Demeanor]

PS.
That little hole at the edge of the skeg in the crack is pretty weird. I didnt drill that.

[powerabout]

cut it off and use the rudder from Miss Geico? lol

[Dave Strong]

Accident waiting to happen.

Dave

[powerabout]

dont go fast on a painted skeg unless you have seen it stripped back

[Mr. Demeanor]

Accident waiting to happen.

Dave

That pretty much sums up my 49 years on this planet.

[Sparkieboat]

If it aint one thing.....

This was NOT there and happened after just a few passes on Sunday. This is why you check and recheck your boat because this kind if thing will kill you.

man I am glad you rechecked that skeg. short of welding some king of brace, I have no idea what to do to stop that from occuring

[CharlieN]

I would add a doubler in that area, probably a ¼" or more thick. Taper it back as it gets lower into the running surface.

[Mr. Demeanor]

I am going to look for another one of the gearcases but they are rare. I have some ideas on this one and will use it to experiment.
I want to add some to the front of the skeg and shorten the length. Get the same or more square inches of skeg in the water but reduce the leverage on the top of the skeg where its prone to cracking.
The other option is to look into a newer style Yamaha gearcase. Yamaha from this vintage did not have the best casting. I think a Vmax case might work.

[Sparkieboat]

there is a guy near me that has a 115 and a 130 yamaha motors for parts. both gearcases are supposed to be good. I think they are early 90s models. you can see them on the savannah ga craigslist under boat parts , just search yamaha. I think he still has them. I offered him $500 for them both but he refused. I think he wants $1K. I would get them for you and ship them to you if you want.

[Mr. Demeanor]

The V4 gearcases wont work. They have very thin cases and crack at the back of the bearing carrier. The internals are basically the same as the V6 they just made the material of the case thinner to make a more narrow gearcase.

[baja200merk]

Patch her up for the run this weekend and try to enjoy myself. I broken three Yamaha gearcases all right there. They just arent going to hold up to what I am doing. I would like to try running the torque tab all the way to the top welding the top of the torque tab to the bottom of the bullet. That would create a lot of stiffness. Maybe add some material in that area. That part of the skeg is out of the water anyway. I know we dont weld skegs.....but gotta try something and just keep a close eye on it.
Only other option is to try and adapt a sportmaster.

We Welded the tab to the top it still cracked. It could be the pic but That case looks like it's been welded there.

Sporty conversion ion would be easier then you think. but sportys are much heavier then your case