Yamaha 130 V4 Project Build.

[powerabout]

less pitch spinning faster usually means more speed in a light boat.

[milkdud]

No reverse would suck on a pleasure boat. Sure I could have done it for less butt then there are the insurance claims LOL.

A speedy prob wouldnt be any faster. I only have 3/4 of my skeg in the water so a smaller bullet wouldnt help me.
I do have some ideas about building a billet rudder that would attach to the current lower unit.

I don't think its so much about drag on the bullet. But the drag a big surfacing prop makes when your trying to correct the crabbing. From the skeg taking a huge load to the boat not running straight. Each is a little bit of loss. A speedy with its tiny props does won't crab the boat as much and thus keep the skeg a bit straighter. A speedmaster would probably run lower in the water to run right. The speeds your running I would be surprised if it didn't run faster and probably safer.

Yes the lack of reverse would suck. But not having all that skeg torque is kinda nice.

I beet someone of your great skills could figure out how to run your motor in reverse like a dock buster when you want.
Be safe.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Ive got some ideas to try and make my drive work better / last longer.
The first thing that being don right now is a new torque tamer that will run the full length of the skeg and tie in at the top to the bullet.
When you weld on a torque tamer and leave it down an inch or so you create a weak horizontal area due to the weld right at the most critical load bearing part of the skeg. Additionally the torque tamer stiffens up the skeg and transfers any flex that would be distributed across the length all to the very to where the weld meets the casting. Its just a recipe for failure IMO.

I think running a full length torque tamer that ties into the bullet will help a lot.

Not my current lower unit but this is the idea.

[Mr. Demeanor]

The other idea is to cut the skeg off leaving maybe an inch and building a billet fixture/rudder that would wrap around the bullet and bolt through the top of the old skeg and above the bullet through the ex passage.
Maybe even make it a fixture with the ability to try different skeg lengths and shapes.

The fixture would be out of the water at anything above slow speed.

Just a rough sketch to illustrate. Obviously it would be more hydrodynamic.

Attachment 338223

[Mr. Demeanor]

I couldnt live without reverse. Might be a fun project to have one but would still need a gearcase with reverse for regular use.

[milkdud]

Good ideas. Yep reverse is useful sometimes. Run a speedmaster and have Electric rev

[powerabout]

offset the engine a little?

[rodrigokrug]

Hey Guys

I need some help from you, I'm not sure about my ignition timing, right now I`m using -2 in Full retarded and 26 in Full Advanced, is it right???
The motor is an Yamaha 130HP V4 1999.

[home made tunnel]

Good ideas. Yep reverse is useful sometimes. Run a speedmaster and have Electric rev

That is just ingenious ! ! ! ! lmao!!! I can't believe that ! But it's the perfect solution! hahaha.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Hey Guys

I need some help from you, I'm not sure about my ignition timing, right now I`m using -2 in Full retarded and 26 in Full Advanced, is it right???
The motor is an Yamaha 130HP V4 1999.

Sounds right. I run about 10/26. i have the idle timing bumped up.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Damn...100 pages and Saturday morning Im going to see if she has a 100mpg pass in her.
Its a sign

Just took the port cylinders down another jet size.

[200valeroyt]

Early I assume? We'll be over there by 9:00 or so, would love to see you get it. Be safe.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Early I assume? We'll be over there by 9:00 or so, would love to see you get it. Be safe.

Probably very early. Then breakfast. Then head north on the river.

[rodrigokrug]

Sounds right. I run about 10/26. i have the idle timing bumped up.

Is it not too high? I saw at the service Manual indicates 5/22, can I run with 26, and have no problems?

[Mr. Demeanor]

I run 26 with 150 psi of compression on pump gas.
Just be very very accurate in setting your pointer at TDC .
I use a piston stop with a spacer on the stop so it stops the piston 10 degrees before or after TDC. I think its the most accurate way to get perfect TDC.
You will actually lose a degree or two as RPM increases just do to the ignition system trying to keep up with piston speed. If you put a timing light on 26 degrees, disconnect the carb linkage, and just pull the timing arm forward you will see it come to 26 then as rpm increases slowly back off.