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  1. #16
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    Nice pickup - might not even need a rebuild - Get that warmed up in the garage and see if you can test the compression

    I am in the middle of a new project, the same guy that sold me the 3 mercurys last month had a Bayliner, 125hp Optimax, and trailer decomposing in his yard so I am not sure why but I gave him a couple hundred bucks for eveything to see if I can get it cleaned up and resold to maybe make OR LOSE some money

    Quote Originally Posted by skialot2 View Post
    Merry Christmas. I bought myself a Christmas present. I got a 1998 Mercury 200 EFI. It was advertised as "Mercury 200 Hp Lower unit. Mercury 200HP lower unit 25" shaft. Bought new 1 year ago. Must take whole motor. I don't know anything about the powerhead. I bought it for the lower unit. $800". Attachment 538849 Attachment 538850



    I could see the VST in the picture. So I knew it was an EFI. I messaged him and said I was interested in the rest of the motor. I told him I would take the lower unit off and give him $200 for the rest of the motor. I would leave him the lower unit. He said for $300 I could take the whole thing. So, I bought it. Attachment 538851 As we are loading it up, he tells me the powerhead is good. They just repowered the boat. But it has been sitting outside uncovered and it's frozen. Then he tells me they changed the ECM because they thought it was bad. But it ended up being the fuel pump. So, he gave me the old ECM also Attachment 538852 It's an FF block. Attachment 538853 It should be worth rebuilding. If it's really just stuck from sitting outside uncovered, I should be able to take it apart and rebuild it without too much trouble.


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  3. #17
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    Well Bah humbug to me. Not what I wanted to see when I pulled the spark plugs

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    So, I pulled the heads. Number 2 has detonated and the piston and block are cracked. Block is junk!

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  4. #18
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    But he said "the powerhead was good" !!!

    Seems like you can scavenge some parts off it anyway...the 200 blocks are getting harder to find (in good condition) on marketplace...too bad that one is cracked


  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Where's the 125 Optimax you were supposed to get for me?
    Here is is.....







  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronhl View Post
    But he said "the powerhead was good" !!!

    Seems like you can scavenge some parts off it anyway...the 200 blocks are getting harder to find (in good condition) on marketplace...too bad that one is cracked
    Yeah, people suck! You never know what to believe. This guy's story changed every time he opened his mouth. The ad said he didn't know anything about the powerhead. Then he said he put an ECM on it. But it ended up being a pump problem. He then gave me the extra ECM. The lower unit looks like a new aftermarket like he said. And the trim seems to work. So, I got my money's worth anyway. Plus, a few months ago, I bought my first 200 EFI. The guy I bought it from said it had 1 cylinder with low compression. I have done 3 compression tests, and all cylinders are within 4 psi of each other. 108 -112. I still have not figured out why it has no power under load. But I will. And now I have EFI parts.

  7. #21
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    do a leak down on it.......

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronhl View Post
    Here is is.....






    If that boat is not rotten you would be surprised what a quick power washing can do.

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  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    do a leak down on it.......
    I bought a cheap leak down tester, and I did a leak down test on it. Assuming I did it correctly, it is perfect. Less than a few % loss in all cylinders. The first picture is setting it the gauge. Connected to the airline but not the motor. The second is connected to the motor but with the ports open. The third picture is with the ports closed. Lots of airflow with the ports open. Used a breaker bar to turn the flywheel to close the ports, then a little more. All airflow sounds stopped. Gauge goes almost all the way back to where I set it. All 6 cylinders are the same.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20241231_164732.jpg  
    Last edited by skialot2; 12-31-2024 at 09:01 PM.

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  11. #24
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    I might have to get one of those leak-down testers.

  12. #25
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  14. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialot2 View Post
    If that boat is not rotten you would be surprised what a quick power washing can do.

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    Wow! Nice cleanup!

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  16. #27
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    I figured I would keep this thread going. I picked up 2 more motors. He said they are not blown up. They both spin. But they do need work. Both are 20" 2.5 200 EFI's. I paid $800 for both. One is a 1998 FF block. The other is a 2000 JJ block. I never heard of a JJ block. Anyone know how a JJ would compare to an FF?

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    Last edited by skialot2; 04-08-2025 at 04:57 PM.

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  18. #28
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    Just a suggestion on using your leak down tester with a breaker bar. Suggest you might consider using a long ratchet rather than a breaker bar. When it goes over TDC with air pressure on, the breaker bar tends to take off on it's own, ratchet will just spin freely. Used to tell all my dealers about this scenario. Unfortunately more than one had been hit with the breaker bar in the chin when it goes over TDC. I always use a long flex head ratchet, great to use especially if the outboard is on a boat. Just a thought. Leak down testers are a great trouble shooting tool.

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  20. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Se7 View Post
    Just a suggestion on using your leak down tester with a breaker bar. Suggest you might consider using a long ratchet rather than a breaker bar. When it goes over TDC with air pressure on, the breaker bar tends to take off on it's own, ratchet will just spin freely. Used to tell all my dealers about this scenario. Unfortunately more than one had been hit with the breaker bar in the chin when it goes over TDC. I always use a long flex head ratchet, great to use especially if the outboard is on a boat. Just a thought. Leak down testers are a great trouble shooting tool.

    Yeah, I thought about that too. A big ratchet is the way to go. Much safer. Thanks.

  21. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialot2 View Post
    Yeah, I thought about that too. A big ratchet is the way to go. Much safer. Thanks.
    Most guys check for max leak at TDC. If you happen to have the full power air on when the piston is holding itself (they will) at TDC, as soon as you touch a socket to the flywheel nut it will take off usually Clockwise. One of the students at a local AVTI did this and got knocked out years ago.

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