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12-23-2024, 01:15 PM #16
Nice pickup - might not even need a rebuild - Get that warmed up in the garage and see if you can test the compression
I am in the middle of a new project, the same guy that sold me the 3 mercurys last month had a Bayliner, 125hp Optimax, and trailer decomposing in his yard so I am not sure why but I gave him a couple hundred bucks for eveything to see if I can get it cleaned up and resold to maybe make OR LOSE some money
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skialot2 liked this post
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12-25-2024, 06:11 PM #17
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12-26-2024, 09:24 AM #18
But he said "the powerhead was good" !!!
Seems like you can scavenge some parts off it anyway...the 200 blocks are getting harder to find (in good condition) on marketplace...too bad that one is cracked
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12-26-2024, 10:53 AM #19
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12-26-2024, 01:29 PM #20
Yeah, people suck! You never know what to believe. This guy's story changed every time he opened his mouth. The ad said he didn't know anything about the powerhead. Then he said he put an ECM on it. But it ended up being a pump problem. He then gave me the extra ECM. The lower unit looks like a new aftermarket like he said. And the trim seems to work. So, I got my money's worth anyway. Plus, a few months ago, I bought my first 200 EFI. The guy I bought it from said it had 1 cylinder with low compression. I have done 3 compression tests, and all cylinders are within 4 psi of each other. 108 -112. I still have not figured out why it has no power under load. But I will. And now I have EFI parts.
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12-26-2024, 03:15 PM #21
do a leak down on it.......
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12-30-2024, 10:00 PM #22
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12-31-2024, 06:10 PM #23
I bought a cheap leak down tester, and I did a leak down test on it. Assuming I did it correctly, it is perfect. Less than a few % loss in all cylinders. The first picture is setting it the gauge. Connected to the airline but not the motor. The second is connected to the motor but with the ports open. The third picture is with the ports closed. Lots of airflow with the ports open. Used a breaker bar to turn the flywheel to close the ports, then a little more. All airflow sounds stopped. Gauge goes almost all the way back to where I set it. All 6 cylinders are the same.
Last edited by skialot2; 12-31-2024 at 09:01 PM.
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12-31-2024, 08:38 PM #24
5000 RPM
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I might have to get one of those leak-down testers.
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12-31-2024, 08:52 PM #25
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01-01-2025, 07:15 PM #26
5000 RPM
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04-08-2025, 04:00 PM #27
I figured I would keep this thread going. I picked up 2 more motors. He said they are not blown up. They both spin. But they do need work. Both are 20" 2.5 200 EFI's. I paid $800 for both.
One is a 1998 FF block. The other is a 2000 JJ block. I never heard of a JJ block. Anyone know how a JJ would compare to an FF?
Last edited by skialot2; 04-08-2025 at 04:57 PM.
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OnPad liked this post
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04-08-2025, 06:27 PM #28
Just a suggestion on using your leak down tester with a breaker bar. Suggest you might consider using a long ratchet rather than a breaker bar. When it goes over TDC with air pressure on, the breaker bar tends to take off on it's own, ratchet will just spin freely. Used to tell all my dealers about this scenario. Unfortunately more than one had been hit with the breaker bar in the chin when it goes over TDC. I always use a long flex head ratchet, great to use especially if the outboard is on a boat. Just a thought. Leak down testers are a great trouble shooting tool.
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04-08-2025, 09:13 PM #29
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04-08-2025, 09:27 PM #30
Most guys check for max leak at TDC. If you happen to have the full power air on when the piston is holding itself (they will) at TDC, as soon as you touch a socket to the flywheel nut it will take off usually Clockwise. One of the students at a local AVTI did this and got knocked out years ago.
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