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Thread: 2.5 ff rebuild

  1. #61
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    Removing saltwater powerhead from mid can be a real pita. The 4 long studs become welded with corrosion. I have never been able to separate without destroying plates. I think $500 is a fair price.

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  3. #62
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    worth a shot for an hour drive.

  4. #63
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    Yep, I do it all of the time. You win some, you lose some

  5. #64
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    yes sir, average 50% I'd call winning.

  6. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock View Post
    Hope you're doing well my friend.

    Rock
    Doing well. Hope your family are all doing good.
    James Perry

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  8. #66
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    I had forgot to mention oil slot in block has been filled to match the rest with epoxy of sort,and front half passage as well, little to late to get a good pic tho. But I will say that James did a very very good job shaping and matching rest of the cyl

  9. #67
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    I can also attest to how hard it is to separate the powerhead from the plates on a salt motor. The one I did I cracked the upper plate at the bolt holes when it finally came apart. Used plates are cheap though on ebay.

  10. #68
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    Ok guys got a quest. I was cleaning up front half getting everything ready. I have a broke bleed valve bottom starboard on intake. Do all these have check valves? When I blow thru em both ways ,the check ball blocks it? Is this correct. I have bleed valves out of a 2.4 front. All is same correct?

  11. #69
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    Correct all the ones on front half are check valves let flow out of crankcase but not into crankcase. Oiler lines from intake just behind carbs to center main bearings are just fittings. 2.4’s will work just fine

  12. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO View Post
    Correct all the ones on front half are check valves let flow out of crankcase but not into crankcase. Oiler lines from intake just behind carbs to center main bearings are just fittings. 2.4’s will work just fine


    Thanks I got one back in there now. Now some of these wont let me blow either way ? But I can hear/feel the ball stopping up opposite end I blow in?

  13. #71
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    Should be able to blow from screen end easily, or suck from barbed end. May be plugged up. Be careful and you can remove the barbed nipple end from the base and remove the ball and disc and clean it really good. I use just a small drop of loc-tite on surface and press it back together. You want them to flow easily and easily seal back up in the other direction.

  14. #72
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    Ok. Reason I asked is I had 3 from 2.4 that was doing that I have all working ones in now but that clears it up. Thanks

  15. #73
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    Be sure to easy on the loc-tite if ya take it apart, don’t want any to get inside with ball

  16. #74
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    What is 'ff' an abbreviation for?

  17. #75
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    I did take it easy but I'll double check it. Ff I'm not sure. Ff. Ee. Cc kk others I'm sure.

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