Lets see some V8 powered boats.

[powerabout]

it would be the first question I would ask a shop, where do your castings come from?

[STV_Keith]

That's good to hear! I had ran Mazco's in the past and was fairly happy with them. Then violently flung a blade which took out every part of a gearcase turning it into total scrap. Ordered two new props. Two blades (I can't remember now if they were both one one prop, or one on ea) came with big spots of porosity that they had attempted to grind out now leaving the porosity, Plus Big Whoop-De-Dos that you could see and feel! Not what you want after flinging a blade on one that looked perfectly good that caused all kinds of collateral damage. I contacted them and explained the situation to John, and couldn't believe what I heard! He said send them back, we are done doing business!! I thought WTF?! And that was it! That broken prop still sits in my kitchen till this day, I don't know why, because it still pisses me off when I see it! lol Maybe I am just venting, but that's my Mazco story!

Surfacing thin props will do that. Being the cheap ass that I am, I've only ever bought used props for my boat. All Mazco's. My average is 1 season before I throw a blade; although to be fair, I have no history on the prop when I get it. When I first bought the boat, my dad gave me a brand new RE3-29 Mazco that he had John send to 300 Below for cryo freeze before I got it. I ran that prop for 2 seasons before going to smaller pitches. I still have it and it's been on several of my dads/brothers STV's and it's still in great shape with no issues. I also bought a RE3-27 last year that's older, but never been on a propshaft. I had Kevin blueprint it, then sent it out to 300 Below for cryo. The boat's apart, but that will be my go-to prop when it goes back together.

You might contact Kevin and see if he can fix the broken prop. If he can't, he'll tell you so. I only talked to John Mazar one time, checking the serial number on a used RE3 I bought. It was a 27P, but it had been worked from the 26P casting, so it had the higher rake of the >26P props. I knew it instantly when I ran it due to the extra bow lift.

[Instigator]

Surfacing thin props will do that. Being the cheap ass that I am, I've only ever bought used props for my boat. All Mazco's. My average is 1 season before I throw a blade; although to be fair, I have no history on the prop when I get it. When I first bought the boat, my dad gave me a brand new RE3-29 Mazco that he had John send to 300 Below for cryo freeze before I got it. I ran that prop for 2 seasons before going to smaller pitches. I still have it and it's been on several of my dads/brothers STV's and it's still in great shape with no issues. I also bought a RE3-27 last year that's older, but never been on a propshaft. I had Kevin blueprint it, then sent it out to 300 Below for cryo. The boat's apart, but that will be my go-to prop when it goes back together.

You might contact Kevin and see if he can fix the broken prop. If he can't, he'll tell you so. I only talked to John Mazar one time, checking the serial number on a used RE3 I bought. It was a 27P, but it had been worked from the 26P casting, so it had the higher rake of the >26P props. I knew it instantly when I ran it due to the extra bow lift.

Agreed.
Only bought one prop new and that was a LS torque shift ��

Will also add in defense of John Mazzer, only spoke to him once and that was when I had my first Sonic and was wanting him to build me a set of wheels.
He ran the numbers of where the boat was running and said he couldn't do any better and to save my money.

Dont get much better than that.

IMO, surfacing your prop makes it a wearable item regardless of who's it is.

[atclen]

To answer the question yes the carbs are stuff, and I add more room in the bowls for more fuel, almost 2x the fuel.

About props all SST props will crack some fast and some slow. I think it comes down to how much steel is in the prop. More steel longer life. I like polished props only because it easy to see a crack over a matt finish prop, easier for me anyway.

[magnum2.5]

still got my 23' true tunnel cat with the evolution v/8 offshore...bin sitting over a year...just when I got the motor all straightened out, spent alot on electrics, set it aside for another project, wow how time fly's...now it looks like s*#*...embarassing...got to pull it together ...what was I thinking to let it go like that...PS ... I have used MAZCO's alot. 4 blades 26p & 28p never had a problem, lost a blade on a ET once never a good experience...

[27' Daytona]

Wasn't meaning to defend cracking propellers but does happen.

I had a very, very rare, early/light 22" Yamaha drag sold and when I was boxing it up, I found a tiny crack that wasn't there before.

There is a huge range of quality depending who/where they came from etc.
I saw a set of 30" cleavers from a week known supplier that had 3" variable of pitch from blade to blade.
I asked that shop if the castings were imported by the prop shop.

I know another well known shop that imports all their castings then finishes them in-house and puts their name on them.
Not wrong but introduces a ton of new variables.

I like your dyeing idea.

Good info, thanks Instigator! I just looked for a pic of using the dye pen, but all I could find on the PC was this one just showing the first step on my Hering finished Pro ET's. Please excuse the dirty gearcase, had just pulled it out for the winter. Damn, just realized that was nearly two years ago on 9/11, the last time I had the boat out! Time flies!! I bought the CRC stuff on Amazon. Cleaner, Penetrant, and Developer.

[powerabout]

Problem with stainless is the cracks start so small you need xray under microscope.

[27' Daytona]

Surfacing thin props will do that. Being the cheap ass that I am, I've only ever bought used props for my boat. All Mazco's. My average is 1 season before I throw a blade; although to be fair, I have no history on the prop when I get it. When I first bought the boat, my dad gave me a brand new RE3-29 Mazco that he had John send to 300 Below for cryo freeze before I got it. I ran that prop for 2 seasons before going to smaller pitches. I still have it and it's been on several of my dads/brothers STV's and it's still in great shape with no issues. I also bought a RE3-27 last year that's older, but never been on a propshaft. I had Kevin blueprint it, then sent it out to 300 Below for cryo. The boat's apart, but that will be my go-to prop when it goes back together.

You might contact Kevin and see if he can fix the broken prop. If he can't, he'll tell you so. I only talked to John Mazar one time, checking the serial number on a used RE3 I bought. It was a 27P, but it had been worked from the 26P casting, so it had the higher rake of the >26P props. I knew it instantly when I ran it due to the extra bow lift.

Good info Keith, thanks! Freezing the prop sounds like a great idea! Think I will try that if nobody buys the boat. I have no problem with the Mazco's, I ran 32's and they held up as long as anything. Its just those last two he sent me, and the way he handled it. Kinda like he got caught! I think mine probably isn't worth fixing. Plus I went to 4 blade Pro ET's now to keep off the rev limiters. I love them, but I think they stopped making them! I will attach a couple pics, one is of the Mazco, and a Merc labbed Pro ET. The other is of my old "paperweight" Merc labbed Lightning ET's. They worked great till the Monty motors, then were up against the 6700 rpm redline. I had found a few cracks and Merc Racing welded them. After just break in time on the Monty's, and only two speed runs, they were both cracked again. Lesson learned! But then I dye penned them, and My God, they are cracked EVERYWHERE!! For me, the Merc lab finished Pro ET's were absolutely perfect, just barely off the redline! Then flung a blade. The latest Pro ET's that I had labbed at Hering brought the rpm down just a tad too much (not there fault!), but they are thicker, heavier, and stronger per my request. But it also brought the high speed cruise rpm down which is kinda nice! I used to just put entire props with propshafts at the bottom of the lake till I started using the 93'-95' style gearcase.

[27' Daytona]

Problem with stainless is the cracks start so small you need xray under microscope.

Good Point!

[27' Daytona]

Back to the V8's, here's some bits of 3 videos I probably have posted here before, but one was kinda long. A Yacht broker picked those for their video, and they came out so messed up! Shaky, jerky, and sound all hosed. On one it was hitting 100 while coming on plane! Thought it looked stupid and offered to fix it and send him the file. Thought why not just post it on YouTube too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYRz-drE5Po

[27' Daytona]

Accidentally stumbled across this pic today.

[AZMIDLYF]

[atclen]

Well I did it, Kevin has me a new mazco cleaver prop coming and Keith I told him I talk to you on S&F he knew who I was talking about right away lol . New 28p OS and see if I can get it in the 8500 rpm or a little under 9000 range and 100 plus in 800'. If I can get it close or just over I'll be happy in 800' . Don't like it turning 9200 I did find a video where it got almost 9300 water was a little choppy. One week it should be here cant wait. Made a new ride plate thicker so it don't bend and moved stuff in rigging. The bow up should stop. also my timing is set 8 degree's lower than std. for the nitrous never turn it back up but did check. If it runs good I'll use the gas to get her up and gone the let off. I think she should hold the speed enough to finish the 800'. Next problem. I cant always run gas (nitrous)only a few outlaw races run what you brung so I need a prop that will run with out it that is why my new cleaver and rpm most of my races is with out anyway. I have a 30p and 31p if its to small for nitrous. Here is a pic from last race. thanks everyone !!!