Honing advice needed

**H2OPERF** · 02-10-2017, 07:31 AM

OMC has a big wide exhaust and transfer ports ,they need a chamfer top and bottom not just the edges taken off... the sides i dont worry too much about because the ring isn't passing over it parallel. just my opinion though , as was said many ways to skin a cat. Dave

**Captain75** · 02-10-2017, 07:50 AM

Originally Posted by powerabout

the ball hone is the best simplest way to ensure so sharp edges on the ports ( thats the only reason to use it and in both rotations)
I wouldnt touch the ports with a grinder, if you must, do it by hand otherwise you will change the timing.

Ballhone before or after rigid?
Small 90deg grinder with cartridge roll at low speed...

**Chaz** · 02-10-2017, 08:28 AM

Originally Posted by powerabout

I wouldnt touch the ports with a grinder, if you must, do it by hand otherwise you will change the timing.

Power ,
Bad news brother , he's finishing up PORTING THE BLOCK . Pretty sure there has been a grinder or two in the ports ... TO CHANGE THE TIMING ...

On a lighter note , glad to see you were paying attention to the honing seminar , 6 month's ago ...

**H2OPERF** · 02-10-2017, 09:41 AM

I use the little 1/4 drum sanders and a tapered stone then finish it with a tapered cratex, all 1/8 grinders nothing bigger. Dave

**Captain75** · 02-10-2017, 01:17 PM

Now I know how it should be done...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AJDZVFkHUY

Have a nice weekend!

**powerabout** · 02-11-2017, 09:00 AM

Originally Posted by Chaz

Power ,
Bad news brother , he's finishing up PORTING THE BLOCK . Pretty sure there has been a grinder or two in the ports ... TO CHANGE THE TIMING ...

On a lighter note , glad to see you were paying attention to the honing seminar , 6 month's ago ...

always ready to learn...
on a lighter note my answer was to his post saying he will chamfer the ports with a die grinder after having completed the porting, hence my comment.

**Captain75** · 02-12-2017, 04:39 AM

Ordered som 280 grit stones for the Lisle, hope they will Do the trick

**Chaz** · 02-13-2017, 04:15 PM

For a one stone hone job that will straighten the bore up and leave a ready to assemble finish . The 280 is a good versatile workhorse .
Don't forget what H2OPerf said about using a good low speed / hi-torque drill motor back on the first page ..

**powerabout** · 02-13-2017, 07:01 PM

have you go a finishing/plateau brush as well, they are the final magic?

**H2OPERF** · 02-13-2017, 09:09 PM

To make the rigid hones do their job and square the bore back up they need a fair amount of tension... if your not having to hold on to the drill like a sig-sauer .45 and clamp the block to the bench then you got it too light, it takes a bit of torque to do it and keep the rpm even. Rule of thumb is 1200 divided by bore size for rpm if your drill has a max of much more than 500 no load your never gonna get enough torque out of it when you throttle it down for a good cross hatch. Sorry was abit short on the first post. Dave

**racer** · 02-14-2017, 09:11 AM

Agree with Dave but a 280 stone with that much tension will leave to coarse a finish IMO, I would lighten up just a bit after bore is straight/round and finish with a cylinder brush. You asked about lubricant when honing, if you don't have actual honing oil vegetable oil works good. I did have the ability to lower current to the drill to slow it down, also had a large air drill that turned 500 rpm without a load that I used to finish. If you really want to do it right install a torque plate and bolt an adapter plate to the bottom. I also honed them at operating temp.

**H2OPERF** · 02-14-2017, 09:32 AM

Hey Al, Honing at temp sounds like the deal. Dave

**baja200merk** · 02-14-2017, 12:15 PM

I use a monster dewalt drill u can slow it down but it doesn't just stop. If ur taking .002 out of all 6 ur arms are wore out. Even though I was only half throttle One day the ridgid hone grabbed a machined spot at the bottom of a 3.4 block and stopped. Well the hone stopped broke a stone and the drill proceeded to try and break my wrist.

I know nothing about honing at temp. I've seen it done with big diesels but do you change the hone oil since the heat will change viscosity?

**racer** · 02-14-2017, 06:32 PM

No Kevin I sprayed the hone with fresh oil. I only did this on race engines that needed to be able to run hard with minimal break in. Standard rebuilds were horned with plates but room temp and the finish was slightly rougher than a race build.

My drill had a big handle on it.