Honing advice needed

[Captain75]

Hello!
I'm currently rebuilding and porting a -99 Closed deck looper. Porting labor is soon coming to an end and it's soon time for chamfering and honing.
Earlier today I recieved a Lisle 15000 rigid hone from the U.S. The hone came with two sets of stones, coarse and medium.
Apart from the Lisle I've also got a 320 grit flexhone (dingelberry).
I feel I need som advice and some useful pointers in order to be successful doing this.
I what order should I carry out the different steps?
1. Chamfering 2. Ballhone 3. Rigid hone
or
1. Rigid hone 2. Chamfering 3. Ballhone?
I've read differnt people doing it both ways...

I've used the Ballhone before and Í feel it makes a really good job deglazing and crosshatching. Another advantage is that the port edges gets chamfered.

Any specific pointers concering the Rigid hone? I've never used one of these!
- Should some oil or som other type of fluid be used?
- Slow speed and an up- and down movement like the Ballhone?

//Anders

[outasite]

I do the ball hone first,then the rigid to get the proper finish.Adjust speed of hone,and rate of up and down to get proper cross hatch.

[Chaz]

On a fresh bore I go to .003 of finish size .
Chamfer the ports with a stone .
Chamfer the deck with a bore chamfer cone .
Then hone to within .0005 with a 220 stone and then a few swipes with a 400 stone to final size . Then I like to go in reverse rotation with a plateau brush to break off any folded over material . ( It's there , ya just cant see it )

On a used bore that you just want to knock off the high spots and to give the rings a good chance of sealing up , a few swipes with light to medium pressure using a 280 stone will clean up the hole without removing too much stock . If it still has shadow's in the bore you have to decide if you want to go a little looser , or run a dingle ball thru it . But don't fool yourself , just because the ball will scuff up the wall doesn't mean that the ring will conform to the low spot on the wall .

Not a big assortment for the Lisle hones .
If your "kit" came with 15500 (80 grit) and 15510 (180 grit) both of them are really way to rough to finish a cylinder with .
I like to buy from Goodson , they have a 280 grit that would be good .

https://www.goodson.com/HL-1638-175-...ent-Stone-Set/

If you want to step your game up , I would find out ( The Goodson people will be very helpful) if the Sunnen AN 815 stones will fit your hones body. They are both toothed peg hones , as long as the distance between pegs is the same , you could convert over to the AN stones which would open you up to stones that apply bottom pressure to keep the wall straight , as well as stones meant just for sleeves with ports ( interrupted bore ) cut in them .

Everybody has their own secret formula for honing oil . A good place to start is with either a light hyd oil or ATF mixed with mineral spirits . Keep it wet , and make sure you don't spend too much time with the hone half way out of the hole , it will taper the bore quick ... and put a "depth mark" on the hone so you don't crash it into the floor ... simple right ..

[H2OPERF]

What he said lol, another thing is you really need a heavy duty drill that will have some power in the lower rpm range, you dont want any more than 500-600 rpm , that with a fairly fast in/out stroke will give you the proper cross hatch angle. i use an air drill that has a governor that way you can hold it wide open and it only turns 500 rpm trying to throttle a variable speed drill with the stone pressure that the rigid hones have is tough, Dave

[powerabout]

Plateau brush last

[powerabout]

Cut the lid out of a tin can to put at bottom of bore for a stop

[Chaz]

Cut the lid out of a tin can to put at bottom of bore for a stop

Do ya have to tape it down .....

I use-ta set the stop on the machine , now I hired a lil green guy to sit there and watch over the operation ...

[powerabout]

Flat12 continental? Or 917 porsche

[baja200merk]

Taking out .003 with the lisle and a big dewalt is a workout. I try to get closer to spec but do 180 ball slow both directions for proper crosshatch. 2 stones 2 brushes suck. Ridged 4 stone then ultra/plataue brush what ever u wanna call it.

100 ways to skin a cat tho

[Chaz]

Flat12 continental? Or 917 porsche

Porsche .. from there , I don't know .
I ask for a finish size number , they write the check .. a beautiful relationship ..

baja200merk

Taking out .003 with the lisle and a big dewalt is a workout. I try to get closer to spec but do 180 ball slow both directions for proper crosshatch. 2 stones 2 brushes suck. Ridged 4 stone then ultra/plataue brush what ever u wanna call it.

100 ways to skin a cat tho

Back in my motorcycle days , I had to hand hone everything , so I was always trying to bore as close to size as possible . Today I'm skeerd to get to close , I don't wanna hold a light to a freshly bored and honed block and see tool marks in the bore ...
Now days , I just set the stop and tap the dwell button every now and then ...
NIC is the hardest $hiz I think I have ever seen . Just barely touch the pressure feed and it squeel's and squall's .. LOL
What's the worst that could happen , chip out a $450.00 set of diamond stones ...

​

[powerabout]

How about hot hone
How about bolting the adapter up as it distorts the bottom 2 cyl on an omc

[powerabout]

Then we get the profilometer out to test what we have just done.

[H2OPERF]

Also if the lisle will accept sunnen style stones get the key stones with double stones on each bar, like chaz said goodson is the best place for that stuff. they also make plateau brushes that look exactly like these but brushes instead of the stones ,makes a beautiful finish. Do your port chamfering with the die grinder like the porting dont rely on the dingle berry. I Use the guides until cyl is round (drill sounds even not pulsating over the high spots) then take the guides off to finish. dave

[Captain75]

Thank you guys for all your inpunts and tips!
Despite all great answers I don't know if this gave me a proper answer on how to skin this cat...
However with all different pieces put together I've learnt a lot, which is describes the greatness of this forum!

I will try to conclude some of your inputs in order to make sure I got it right, please verify or oppose if I got it wrong!

- My Lisle 15000 will work, but only with finer grit stones compared to the medium 180 grit that came with the kit?
- Chamfering will be carried out as a first step after porting is finished. Chamfering is done with the help of a die grinder /stone.
- Ballhone 320 grit, will only be used as a last resort if there are "shadows" left after the rigid hone?
- Honing fluid - ATF, WD40?

The bores look quite good to me, compression was between 105-110 on all, one slightly lower at 100.
I don't want to make any big adjustments, mainly looking to freshen up the bores before putting in the new rings.

//Anders

[powerabout]

the ball hone is the best simplest way to ensure so sharp edges on the ports ( thats the only reason to use it and in both rotations)
I wouldnt touch the ports with a grinder, if you must, do it by hand otherwise you will change the timing.