Yamaha 130 V4 Project Build.

[Mr. Demeanor]

It probably had wing plates and string steering. It something I didnt realize when I bought it. Im taking the drive shaft up to Marty Powell to be shortened and going to have to talk to him and Dago about doing something. I either have to have my old steering arom put on this or come up with a side steer.
The problem is the swivel tube assembly is welded. No way to take it apart without cutting.
I got it all bead blasted and cleaned up and had to get some primer on it.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Ironically....I just got off the phone with Marty. Im going to bring my stock steering arm assembly with me when I head up there. Going to have to shorten mine and switch over or make something up. Whatever he feels is the safest. I really dont like the cast steering arm. Maybe we will make up something from plate.

[CharlieN]

You could cut the bottom mount off and cut down another swivel tube. That lower bracket is a simple weldment that can easily be replicated.
Another option is to pickup a few of the mid to upper mount bolts as one would for sidearm or cable but bring a plate or weldment forward for your existing front mount.

Obviously many other options out there too.

[CharlieN]

I really dont like the cast steering arm.

Took me too long to write, you got another post in,
If I recall the tiller arm on my V6 is a stainless forging. Been so much rain up here I have not looked at mine in awhile.

[Mr. Demeanor]

The wheels are turning. This actually might be a good thing. If I can raise the steering arm closer to the bottom of the pan it will give me more room to tilt the engine up before the steering hits the engine well. Its going to be very close as it is.
Gets me thinking....
My pan is solid aluminum and very heavy duty. I could have a steering arm bolt that went through the pan, through a block between the pan and steering arm and through the steering. It would tie the pan and the steering arm together making the pan kind of a big wing plate.

[CharlieN]

My steering arm is raised a bit, plus you can look at mounting the steering to the top of the arm.
I have drilled the pan to access the bolt.

The pan is cast, I would not place much faith in it structurally but that does not mean it couldn't be reinforced and be used as a doubler for the cylinder mount.

[evilrude 1]

:d

Attachment 298559 Attachment 298560

Real nice !
Any thoughts on an exhaust snout ??

[Mr. Demeanor]

Real nice !
Any thoughts on an exhaust snout ??

Not much mid there to be cutting into and I need exhaust out the prop hub to help break these big props loose with my little motor.
The tuner is going to be pretty much right down into the gearcase so I dont think a snout would do much. The end of the tuner would be lower than the snout. Im hoping the tuner fits. Hydrotech told me cutting the tuner to 11-1/2" on a stock motor is worth 8-10hp, probably a little more on a modded motor but it kills the bottom end.

[1FASTLASER]

Could you not build a shorter steering arm out of stainless and have it machined. Shouldn't be no problem for a competent machinist and I know you are close to some very professional ones..... The ones that have already done some work fer ya

[Mr. Demeanor]

Talked to Dago today about making one up out of stainless. It could be made to bolt right to the upper motor mount bolts.

[dagodiver]

After looking close at your engine at
The lake today i have an idea.
Answer your phone.!

Dago

[BoomerMuskoka]

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...Clamp-Brackets

[Mr. Demeanor]

After looking close at your engine at
The lake today i have an idea.
Answer your phone.!

Dago

I was busy pulling the powerhead

Sorry my phone died in mid sentence. Kind of the theme for the day.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Decided to tear it apart and dry fit some parts before painting and ran into a pretty big issue.
The way the swivel was done in order to get the mid down to 15" also adds 1.5" of setback which is exactly what I dont want. Im going to have to get Marty Powell to look at it and see what he thinks. If we reduce the setback, the bracket at the bottom of the swivel will hit sooner reducing how far I can turn the wheel side to side.
Tuner is also an inch longer than the midsection.



You can see here with the bracket for the bottom motor mounts right against the mid, the top is about 1.5" out. would have to make some spacers and get longer upper motor mount bolts which isnt a big deal but I dont want the setback. It may also cause issues with my steering etc. but I can probably just make the new tiller arm longer.



The other option would be to simply remove the jack plate and see what happens. That would be another 20 pounds off the transom and my setback would be about the same in the end (my jackplate on has 1.5" of setback). The downside is if the boat doesnt like it, it would mean taking it all apart again.


As it sits, the new mid/swivel is 9 pounds lighter than the old. Lose the jackplate would be a total loss of about 25 pounds by the time I add back in a new tiller arm. Thats huge on this boat.

[Dave Strong]

Don't use 5200 if bolt the motor directly to the transom.lol
25lbs less weight on the back of your boat could really screw up the balance.

Dave