Yamaha 130 V4 Project Build.

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 12:55 AM

Originally Posted by baja200merk

We used the PC11 to stuff intakes on beefs and I'm not very impressed with how soft it is after 48hrs of setup. West system in the same spot would be hard to file, metal marine tex then pc11 would be ranked barley above long strand bondo or that 5 min $5.00 crap in the tubes

PC11 is softer than PC7. But its white and matches your cowling so I understand you wanting to use it

It does cure slow but thats good. Slow cure is strong.West is very hard but also brittle. I will crack with a lot of heat cycle where the epoxy and aluminum are not expanding/contracting at the same rate. You want a little flex.
Splash Zone is the same. Takes 8 hours to cure.

**baja200merk** · 12-21-2013, 01:06 AM

We would have bought pc7 if it was around.

Tried PC11 on a buddys gearcase before Suwanee and was not very impressed. We are giving it one more try....

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 01:19 AM

PC11 is too thin for stuffing IMO. Its more like MarineTex but kind of creamy like you could spread it. PC7 is more like putty.
After a few hours, with PC7 you can really shape it nice. When your using it, if you dip your finger in lacquer thinner you can smooth it out real nice so you dont have to sand much.

On another note, I think there is going to be a custom billet carrier in my future.

**baja200merk** · 12-21-2013, 01:30 AM

Originally Posted by Mr. Demeanor

PC11 is too thin for stuffing IMO. Its more like MarineTex but kind of creamy like you could spread it. PC7 is more like putty.
After a few hours, with PC7 you can really shape it nice. When your using it, if you dip your finger in lacquer thinner you can smooth it out real nice so you dont have to sand much.

On another note, I think there is going to be a custom billet carrier in my future.

I thought PC11 was too thick. We didnt have to stuff the front like yours just fill around the reed blocks. It took most of the pc11 and 2x longer to make it lay into the intakes. If it was west system consistency it would be poured in 5 mins and walk away. If pc7 is thicker then no thanks. We use west system to stuff float bowls and it works well but the pc11 stuffing intakes is a bitch, if it was thicker there would just be more four letter words involved.

Billet carrier? I know this guy....

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 01:46 AM

Yes, PC7 is thicker. If you warm it ( 7 or 11) up it will get MUCH thinner and still have plenty of working time.
I have gallons of a pourable structural epoxy I use building flagpoles that would work perfect for you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-...-/310116238243
I think what I am going to need is a rear carrier bearing that can deal with some flex in the shaft. The shaft is flexing right there and pinching the ends of the needles bearings. A caged roller bearing or something with some taper would not get pinched. It will have to be small enough not to block my exhaust though.

**olboatman** · 12-21-2013, 07:36 AM

Thanks for the epoxy info -- now I can start stuffing an intake I've been wanting to do. This site really is "Priceless"!! Gary

**baja200merk** · 12-21-2013, 09:38 AM

Thats a good deal on epoxy. Will get it next time for sure!

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by baja200merk

Thats a good deal on epoxy. Will get it next time for sure!

If you ever are getting this way or were going to the same event and I need some I can piggy an order for you and save a bunch on shipping.

**Umassot50** · 12-21-2013, 07:22 PM

you guys mention the splash zone. i have not used it but have some to try on a project soon. what is the consistency of splash zone when its mixed? is it like putty or does it flow/settle like 20 min jb weld? ive used a lot of jb weld inside engines and it holds up great. can you warm the splash zone to make it more fluid? anyone used High temp lab metal. Ive used it and it works well in very hot areas. Im going to try it inside an exhaust in the bottom of the block. thats a different project though.

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 07:37 PM

I have no experience with it but I do not believe there is an epoxy that will hold up to the heat of exhaust. Most are rated about 200 degrees.

**dagodiver** · 12-21-2013, 08:09 PM

Yes ive also had great results using the high temp Alvin
Products epoxy. We would mix them with different
graphite powders to get the temp way up. We only
needed the products to last a minute but we were putting
crazy temps to it.

Dago.

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-21-2013, 09:04 PM

Let me know how it works. Mike, remember when you welded that little piece in my exhaust? HA.....probabaly not!
I would have epoxied it if I could have found something.

**dagodiver** · 12-21-2013, 09:11 PM

I remember welding it I just misplaced it for a few days.
Im not a functioning druggie. !

**olboatman** · 12-22-2013, 09:49 AM

Ok Guys. Of the epoxy mentioned, which would you recomend to use in an intake that doesn't get hot but will get gas soaked.This is in one of my sm. 2cyls that I don't tear down often. Thanks Again Gary

**Mr. Demeanor** · 12-26-2013, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by olboatman

Ok Guys. Of the epoxy mentioned, which would you recomend to use in an intake that doesn't get hot but will get gas soaked.This is in one of my sm. 2cyls that I don't tear down often. Thanks Again Gary

Either is fine for fuel.

Baja, how did it work out?

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