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  1. #121
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    While it is still apart, check out blending the adaptor plate to the powerhead. Be sure to check the base gasket blend to both. May require some modifying to the gasket. A good rotary tool with a small fiberglass wheel works well for that. Tough material.
    Ray Neudecker Over The Hill Gang Outboard Racing

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris3198 View Post
    I'm dying to see some video of the new motor, I've watched all your youtube videos there great and who nows if Mike Biel is really gonna start building these little tunnel hulls again I may have to place an order for one in the very near future here. Although I must admit I just have a 75 OMC short shaft. Can you run a short shaft on this boat and are you gonna do this once you get your powerhead and al back??
    I have mixed emotions about Mike building them again. On one hand its a great little boat and with modern build tech. who knows how much better it could be. On the other hand, having one of only 5 of these is pretty cool too. I would love to see him add small pickle forks to the new design. He did send me some pics of the new plug in progress but its been awhile since I have heard from him. The new plug has no notch at the transom/end of sponsons which reduces setback and should help float heavier engines better. It would seem to be a good idea.
    I just want to get the motor up and running at this point. I may have the mid cut this winter but I can only get about 2.5" out of it due to the bracket/trim assembly. with some time and $ maybe there is a way to take more out.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  3. #123
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    I read something about that on his site, I would rather not have a new design I would prefer to have the same design as your boat because clearly yours runs really well.
    I think you could cut more on that mid then 2.5 inches you just gotten think about it a bit. i know of a guy that took the power trim of a 70 hp OMC long shaft had to do some modifying on the swivel bracket I believe it s called and was able to adapt a shorter mid from a 15 shaft and make it all work. Next time I see him and am really ready to build this motor of mine I'm gonna see how he did it all and do the same.

  4. #124
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    What I would need to do is adapt a newer style Yamaha single ram. I am sure it can be done.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  5. #125
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    I know what you're talking about and it would give you much more room then what this guy used for the powertrim.

  6. #126
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    you should be able to cut it to 16"
    hold on and hope for the best

  7. Thanks abdrews013 thanked for this post
  8. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris3198 View Post
    I read something about that on his site, I would rather not have a new design I would prefer to have the same design as your boat because clearly yours runs really well.
    I think you could cut more on that mid then 2.5 inches you just gotten think about it a bit. i know of a guy that took the power trim of a 70 hp OMC long shaft had to do some modifying on the swivel bracket I believe it s called and was able to adapt a shorter mid from a 15 shaft and make it all work. Next time I see him and am really ready to build this motor of mine I'm gonna see how he did it all and do the same.
    Yamaha has 15" power trim on a few inlines, many guys use these on the OMC 15" setups, small amount of machining required

  9. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Neudecker View Post
    While it is still apart, check out blending the adaptor plate to the powerhead. Be sure to check the base gasket blend to both. May require some modifying to the gasket. A good rotary tool with a small fiberglass wheel works well for that. Tough material.
    thanks. I noticed on the adapter plate exhaust ports, both sides have a sharp bump out almost like a directional fin? Should that be ground out smooth?

  10. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by racecar View Post
    thanks. I noticed on the adapter plate exhaust ports, both sides have a sharp bump out almost like a directional fin? Should that be ground out smooth?
    I think you are referring to what I called "ramps" in the exhaust passages through the adpater plate. Mine are getting a good massaging. Just smooth out anything that looks like it will obstruct flow or cause turbulence and like Ray said, make sure all gaskets and mated parts blend together smoothly.
    This goes for the intake side as well.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  11. #130
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    I was surprised to see low tolerance levels when exhaust plates were attached and viewed through. Power head exhaust. Do you think epoxying the in-tolerances amount to anything, or is this taken into accountant when the tuner was designed? Not sure what will happen when this area Is blended to flow better, lean condition at certain rpm?
    Any input would be great?
    i am thinking of boring the 115 carbs to 34 mm or is that too much? What other carb compensations do I need to make for a baseline setup?
    thanks

  12. #131
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    Just an update in case anyone is looking in the future...

    The Mallory Marine Yamaha rod bolt is made in Taiwan
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  13. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by racecar View Post
    I was surprised to see low tolerance levels when exhaust plates were attached and viewed through. Power head exhaust. Do you think epoxying the in-tolerances amount to anything, or is this taken into accountant when the tuner was designed? Not sure what will happen when this area Is blended to flow better, lean condition at certain rpm?
    Any input would be great?
    i am thinking of boring the 115 carbs to 34 mm or is that too much? What other carb compensations do I need to make for a baseline setup?
    thanks
    epoxy works well on the intake side for blending and filling but is not going to last on the exhaust side where it is subjected to high heat, expansion/contraction, water (salt water in some cases) etc.

    I have never bored carbs so I dont know cost vs. benifit vs. just finding some 130 carbs.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  14. #133
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    Bad news...

    Just got a call from Falicon and all 4 rods are bad. They are out of round probably from the beating they took when it was sucking water in thier opinion. I need 4 rods....
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  15. #134
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    Unless the centuries are blended like kottman carbs, its not worth boring 32's to 34. Its best to find a set of 34's. Also the newer carbs with pressed in emulsion tubes can't be bored, only the early carbs w/ removable tubes can be bored..
    Mike Dowling

  16. #135
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    The timing wasnt bad. I just scored 4 brand new OEM rod assemblies on ebay for $400. Considering I was goig to have to buy rod bolts I really lucked out. Retail on them was going to cost me about $1000!
    Its worth knowing I have new oem IMO
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

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