2001 XR5 150 - No oil pump failure sensor?

[DeudeMann]

The title has a typo, should be XR6.
I have a 2001 XR6 150, runs well.
Ser# 0T384585

From what I have read some of the earlier (?) XR6 motors have a sensor on the oil pump that is tied into the beeper and warns if the pump stops rotating. Also, apparently some motors do not have that sensor (?) and just the level sensor on the engine oil tank. I do not see any sensor wiring on mine at the oil pump itself so I am wondering if this particular motor does NOT have it?

I do know about deletion of the oiling system and premixing instead. If there is no sensor for the oil pump itself that will probably push me over to doing the delete. I looked up the Mercury driving gear part for this serial number motor and from what I can tell it uses the plastic driving gear on the crankshaft.

Thanks

[OnPad]

Correct, your engine doesn't have it. Don't think twice about getting rid of that setup.

[DeudeMann]

Correct, your engine doesn't have it. Don't think twice about getting rid of that setup.

Wow... Why would Merc get rid of the motion sensor in the LATER versions? That's pretty silly; I can only speculate as to why.

Yes I think I will be getting rid of the oiling system now. I've watched a vid on it and it's easy. I just need to find one of the pump shaft delete plugs with the shaft that holds the internal bearing in place.

[OnPad]

I recently deleted a 2000, had no rotational sensor.
If you buy a cheap blockoff plug, the last two I bought don't fit, without sanding.

When I said, don't think twice, I was referring to deleting the oil injection. Junk plastic drive gear will bite you.

[DeudeMann]

With the constant 50:1 mix are there any issues with plug fouling during extended idling? I'm sure there is more smoke too but I'll live with those things to avoid catastrophic engine failure.

[DeudeMann]

I recently deleted a 2000, had no rotational sensor.
If you buy a cheap blockoff plug, the last two I bought don't fit, without sanding.

When I said, don't think twice, I was referring to deleting the oil injection. Junk plastic drive gear will bite you.

I saw on a vid that it is a really tight fit at the outer end where the pump is located. Is that what you mean? Is there a better one? I see some listed on ebay, and one made by 'Red Rhino' on a marine parts store website. Not a big deal if not, I can sand one down, easy. Hell I could even turn it in the lathe for that matter though that is overkill.

Yep I get it, deleting the oil injection, I knew that is what you meant. Thanks.

[OnPad]

Never had a problem (even at 40:1) with plugs.


I don't know what the deal was with the last batch of plugs, (China mad!) the o ring fit alright, but just like you described, the big end don't fit in the hole. I suppose if it said mercury on the package, it probably would fit. If not a lathe wouldn't be a bad idea, I had to remove alot of material.

[DeudeMann]

No worries, found one on Amazon. I'll make it work. As long as it holds that pump shaft bearing in place in the motor it's not a problem.

EDIT: Ended up ordering a 43453T PLUG (Mercury Marine) instead.

Thanks for the information.

[derekfl]

so do unto others before they do unto you applies to oil injection setup too.

[DeudeMann]

so do unto others before they do unto you applies to oil injection setup too.

Ha I suppose it does.

I have a follow-up question. I saw mention of looping the lines in another injection delete discussion; it may have been you actually. When doing that, everything is left in place, the lines are looped, and whatever oil is left in the pump is used to keep it lubricated (since it is still rotating) correct? I might do this while I am waiting on the plug to arrive.

I understand why Mercury used a softer material for the driving gear. This is a common scheme in gear drives, and IIRC small-block Chevys use that same scheme for the cam (driving gear) and the distributor (driven gear). However it would have been nice if Mercury used something much less temperature sensitive like bronze, or even Vespel (expensive) if it has to be plastic. Or use the harder material on the CRANK, and use the softer material on the PUMP, so the softer material is easier to remove and replace.

In a past life I was a gearing engineer. Machining gears is not a trivial operation, and the driving gear geometry is a bit unusual. I suspect it was made from plastic in part for easier manufacturing.

[VkingMike]

Never had a problem (even at 40:1) with plugs.

Same, I run 40:1 and no issues with plugs. Makes me feel better the closer it goes to 7,000 rpm lol