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Thread: Mad EFI mid
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09-02-2022, 02:56 PM #76
SO....to change the direction of this thread.
Question for all you intelligent old people
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How do I make right? What should I do?
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09-02-2022, 03:22 PM #77
6000 RPM
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EBAY sale or trade; 1 mis-aligned midsection make offer!
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25two.stroke liked this post
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09-02-2022, 04:43 PM #78
epoxy redrill
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25two.stroke liked this post
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09-03-2022, 12:33 AM #79
Welp , first thing I would do is buy a new pair of glasses ...
Not sure it's repairable, but I usually buy the Mrs. a nice Halmark card, take her to dinner .. I guess you could always send a gift card to Flanigans ... inside the Halmark card ..
Probably should send me one as well ...
Lets see .. how many times did I say .. grind the hole out where the drive shaft goes thru the adapter plate ... better make it a few gift cards ..
So we have grease on the splines ... good .
Grease smear at the lower seal / crank O-ring ... good .
Notice exhaust discolor on the shaft directly below the plane of the adapter base .
*** Oh-Oh .. rubbing right where the adapter hole rolls down to the bottom plane of the plate . ***
*** See circle + arrows ***
Your welcome ...
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09-03-2022, 12:59 AM #80
If he insists on running it with the shaft in "self clearancing" mode, I'd say he's gonna hafta put a new crank and drive shaft in .... or do this to the one thats in there now ...
Chaz = thimkin, just another young guy payin the "dumb tax" ...



I purposely haven't mentioned drive shafts. I do them three different ways ... Cut and respline like you taught me ..
(I have a pair in my lowers , 256 hrs, 55 of them with 3462cc / 170 psi thumpers ,, no issues) 
Shafts I cut 5" down from the top .. centering pin , bevel welded in a spare lathe chuck .
And then the cut at the top , drilled , pressed , top and side welded makes it welded 100%
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FUJIMO liked this post
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09-03-2022, 09:08 AM #81
The Historic Photo Master
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...can't do that any better...perfect...
Last edited by FUJIMO; 09-03-2022 at 11:11 AM.
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09-03-2022, 09:50 AM #82
I still don't get what opening the hole in the adapter plate would do. It won't gain anything.
The dings in the picture that you circled were not from collision with the adapter plate while running, that was when I pulled the lower off, as it came down the studs it wobbled back and forth before it came to the ground: hence they are not in a circle around the shaft, they are at different elevations...
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09-03-2022, 10:17 AM #83
Can you remove the mid laying it upside down on a flat surface
Now have a bar over it measuring both sides bar to flat surface
If it is uneven it should show up
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rgsauger liked this post
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09-03-2022, 10:49 AM #84
Ok, it is evident to me now that I suck ass at taking pictures. That being said, the things that are clear to me are not necessarily clear to yall. My suspicions about the cause of this misalignment were confirmed by this last time taking the lower off and looking at everything. I am going to have to draw some pictures to explain the photographs cause I see where they are not 100% clear.
Chaz, the reason I don't grind the adapter plate hole out is because the driveshaft IS in the center of the hole with about 3/16" clearance all the way around: when the powerhead is installed. There is no way for it to get near the side of the adapter plate. The crank pulls it to the center of that hole. I will do some drawing.
Yes Ronnie I can do that measurement and will. However, due to the manufacturing process of these midsections I doubt that the top and bottom are out of plane. That would be a much harder mistake to make during manufacturing than the two bolt patterns being off. And because the bolt patterns are obviously off, it makes me doubt even more that the midsection is at an angle.
Regardless, the only piece in the equation that could cause this is the midsection/driveshaft housing. So somehow I gotta get a solution. I hope in the off season that I can send it back and Todd can just put his eyes and hands on it. I hope he agrees to that...
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09-03-2022, 02:29 PM #85
The story gets more far fetched .. as it goes along ... sad
Dropping a lower unit ... will put longitudinal (up + down) scratch's in the shaft as it makes contact.
Rubbing while rotating .. you'll get a short circular pattern around the circumference .. like the one in your picture.
Beyond time to look at the three fingers pointing back at yourself ...
Thanks FUGIPHOTO
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09-03-2022, 04:31 PM #86
how do you fix it? you send it back and get one thats correct, period!
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09-03-2022, 04:34 PM #87
What is not clear here??? I am sorry this is all so long-winded, but here are the facts:
1. The driveshaft is not centered in the adapter plate when the lower unit is bolted up tightly and the powerhead is off. Consequently it is not centered in the powerhead in a relaxed state.
2. The driveshaft is not colliding with anything on its way up to the powerhead, although its damn close to the hole in the adapter plate. I rolled up a piece of paper around the driveshaft and I can slide it all the way down to the water pump without it hanging up.
3. The driveshaft hole in the adapter plate, when bolted to the powerhead, is centered with the crankshaft.
4. The crankshaft is not off center in the powerhead.
5. The driveshaft hole in the adapter plate is centered in the adapter plate.
6. The driveshaft is not bent.
7. The splines stripped out in the original setup after very little use.
8. As I set the powerhead onto the midsection during the latest assembly (with the lower unit already installed) I watched the driveshaft meet up with the lower endcap off center, then as the powerhead went down I had a hard time lining the splines up until finally I saw the driveshaft get pulled back to about the center of the adapter plate and then it continued to slide down with a little bit of resistance. The powerhead pulled the driveshaft back to the center of the hole when it was installed. No collision between the driveshaft and anything else from the water pump up to the lower endcap.
These are the facts of this engine assembly and I am sorry if they were not clear from what I have posted so far. I know I have been long winded.
I have been looking at my fingers, all of them, all day while I work on boats on this fine labor day weekend.
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stoker2001 liked this post
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09-03-2022, 04:48 PM #88
so how is this his fault? did he layout the ef'ed up hole pattern that honestly pretty much have no meat on one side and damn near thru the side. and who cares where he measures from, just look at the pics and its self expainitory that its off.why would there be any issue with swapping it for one thats right? would it be acceptable to you? 25 doesnt owe anybody an appology, he IS owed what he paid for, a corrctly built mid
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25two.stroke thanked for this post
stoker2001 liked this post
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09-03-2022, 08:36 PM #89
I've done nothing but try to help .. I figured I have made myself clear on the same thing over and over again. Here are the facts .. Give me a break .. the facts change at every post .

And now what , an interpreter ... ??? A chearleader .. ??? The voice of reason .. ??? Someone else to explain it to me ...
If you guys know so much .. fix it .. yourself. Neither one of you listen ..
If you can't do that .. then take it to someone who can .. or .. run stock $hiz, like anyone can buy ..
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WaterZebra liked this post
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09-03-2022, 09:15 PM #90
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Totally right on the pin!! We've beat this MAD EFI mid thing to death. Stop whining with a keyboard and fix the issue by throwing some money at it! MAD EFI probably makes a few hundred mids at best thru the years and have tried the best they could. Mercury, on the other hand, has made thousands and cannot afford ANY misaligned mids in production (warranty work). You can't fix your problem with a couple of tubes of JB Weld eithet!
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25two.stroke liked this post




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