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  1. #1
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    Hi, I have a Lavey Craft 20' 2" tunnel hull open bow w/Mercury 3.0L

    I'm a new member here. I have a lot of knowledge in a lot of areas but I've never tried to build a "fast" outboard powered boat. What's fast? I have no idea. I've been wrenching and wiring outboard powered fishing boats, family boats, and a a little high end wakeboard boats thrown in for the last decade. Before that I had a few BBC powered jet boats and I built a few hot rods. Fiberglass, paint, gel coat, welding, wiring, rigging, etc... is no problem for me.

    I don't have a clue how to make a fast outboard powered boat. I know my 1987 Lavey Craft 20; 2" tunnel hull is heavy but I also know it's stable and well built. I have 2 Mercury 3.0L 225 hp 25" shaft outboards. One is carbureted and the other is EFI. Both have 1 cylinder hurt. I'll only be using 1 of the Mercury's and most likely it'll be the newer, less hour, cleaner EFI outboard. I know the outboard is on the heavy side and it's way too tall (25" shaft) which raises the center of gravity of the boat. I don't know anything about outboard gearing versus horsepower verus prop size etc... I don't know why "fast" outboard powered boats use aftermarket lowers. Do they make different gears for the factory lower or are the factory lowers POS's? I've read about some big outboards running 15" shaft lowers and mids, I'm used to fishing boats lol, 15" seems pretty low, how do I know if a 20' 2" heavy tunnel hull needs a 15" shaft? is that too low for that boat" The Lavey Craft has the original set back on its transom. I also have a manual 6 1/2" set back jack plate to attempt to remedy the current 25" shaft. The boat needs everything it could possibly need. I'll be doing 90%+ of it myself.

    Thanks for letting me join and reading!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20220402_104327.jpg  

  2. #2
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    More Pics, It doesnt look like a Sebring. Is that an open bow?
    L.T.


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  4. #3
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    You will need a 20" shaft. 15 might work, 25 is too long, 20 is pretty standard. Gears could be 1.87, 1.75, 1.62, or 2:1. 1.87 is most common and should work fine. Most boats like yours run the prop shaft high, so to get water they need low water pick ups. A nose cone can be added to a standard gearcase or you can get a sportmaster gearcase that is stronger and can be run high. A CLE might work but they are all old now.

    It might be simpler to sell both your 225s and buy something that works with a 20" shaft

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaveyT View Post
    More Pics, It doesnt look like a Sebring. Is that an open bow?
    I don't know what model it is and yes it's an open bow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20220405_122529.jpg   20220405_122521.jpg   20220404_134147.jpg  

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    You will need a 20" shaft. 15 might work, 25 is too long, 20 is pretty standard. Gears could be 1.87, 1.75, 1.62, or 2:1. 1.87 is most common and should work fine. Most boats like yours run the prop shaft high, so to get water they need low water pick ups. A nose cone can be added to a standard gearcase or you can get a sportmaster gearcase that is stronger and can be run high. A CLE might work but they are all old now.

    It might be simpler to sell both your 225s and buy something that works with a 20" shaft
    I have been told 20" mids and lowers are difficult to find for a 3.0L. If a 25" won't work I plan on chopping the existing mid down to a 20" and welding it back together and buying a 20" input shaft for the lower. I haven't searched for any parts for the outboard yet but a friend of mine has been looking for a pair of 20" mids and lowers for his pair of 3.0L's.

  8. #6
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    Bottom pics?

    Quote Originally Posted by hotboatrod View Post
    I don't know what model it is and yes it's an open bow.
    Any photos of the bottom?

    There is a really good Facebook LaveyCraft group. The second owners of Lavey frequent that group (Jeff and Chris).
    lots of good-knowledge in that group.
    L.T.


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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaveyT View Post
    Any photos of the bottom?

    There is a really good Facebook LaveyCraft group. The second owners of Lavey frequent that group (Jeff and Chris).
    lots of good-knowledge in that group.
    Thanks for the tip on the FB group. I just took some pictures of the bottom of the hull.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20220413_080059.jpg   20220413_080117.jpg   20220413_080210.jpg   20220413_080224.jpg  

  11. #8
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    Bowrider

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	503691Wow, I’ve never seen that hull in a bow rider. You could in theory put a 25” shaft on there but it’s tough enough getting a 20” high enough. The plates are mounted pretty low on the boats and there is a lot of lift in the factory plate. A nose cone will kill any bow lift you might have. A stock lower is the way to go.
    I’m guessing 60 + with a bow rider but it’s just a guess.
    L.T.


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  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaveyT View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	503691Wow, I’ve never seen that hull in a bow rider. You could in theory put a 25” shaft on there but it’s tough enough getting a 20” high enough. The plates are mounted pretty low on the boats and there is a lot of lift in the factory plate. A nose cone will kill any bow lift you might have. A stock lower is the way to go.
    I’m guessing 60 + with a bow rider but it’s just a guess.
    That's a beautiful boat you have. I couldn't figure out what a couple of holes were for but your picture cleared that up for me, they're for dual cable steering. I appreciate the information on the outboard height and on the nose cone. Those OMC 225's are great outboards, we have 5 of the 200's here and they're very similar to the 225's.

  14. #10
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  16. #11
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    While I am being negative, you should check the transom, core, and floor for rot. Unless of course the boat is wood free.

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  18. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaveyT View Post
    Thank you!!!

  19. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    While I am being negative, you should check the transom, core, and floor for rot. Unless of course the boat is wood free.
    The transom doesn't have any wood except for a vertical support running fore and aft, no wood port to starboard. I don't think it has any core but I haven't looked very well at that yet. When I first saw the boat the guy who I bought it from, who I know pretty well, was proud that he had redid the floor. "The floor is solid man, I redid it a couple of years ago. "Look (jumps in the boat and jumps up and down on the floor which breaks the floor), oh ****." LMAO. When I vacuumed out the boat the vacuum literally pulled up a 18"x18" piece of fiberglass the PO had laid, which is exactly what I would expect from that guy.

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