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	12-23-2021, 03:22 PM #1 Member Member- Join Date
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	12-23-2021, 03:28 PM #2Thats factory OEM. First gen 300x motors came that way. So did early optimax 3.0L engines. 8' Yellow Jacket - 25 hp Mariner
 1984 Hst VKing - 15" Bridgeport EFI
 1990 Collins Mirage - 15" 260
 22' Aquasport - 150 SeaPro Fourstroke
 
 25 hp Merc that runs on ACETONE
 25 hp Merc with dry side pipe
 25 hp Merc with 11" mid and 2.42:1 gears
 
 
 
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	12-23-2021, 03:35 PM #3 Member Member- Join Date
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	12-23-2021, 03:39 PM #4 The Historic Photo Master The Historic Photo Master- Join Date
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 ...early years of 3 liter gearcases, both fleetmasters & sportmasters. also as a service replacement gearcase for a couple years. offshore multi-engine 3 liter boats it was nice, as they could then fit all the different shaft length motors if needed to swap, for what ever reason was needed... 
 
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	12-23-2021, 03:41 PM #5 The Historic Photo Master The Historic Photo Master- Join Date
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	12-23-2021, 03:42 PM #6Dont lose that spline piece I think they are about $800 
 
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	12-23-2021, 03:43 PM #7 The Historic Photo Master The Historic Photo Master- Join Date
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 ...not to say you couldn't easily cut & weld one for a 15 though... 
 
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	12-23-2021, 03:53 PM #8 Member Member- Join Date
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	12-23-2021, 04:08 PM #9I just took out one that was on a 15" mid and swapped it out with a 1 piece...thats the easier route if you want to go to a 15" mid. Buy a new 1 piece 20" shaft and have it cut down to 15" for $150. With shipping and the cost of the shaft all said and done you get a brand new driveshaft for $550 or less. Of course, you could sent out just your upper shaft you have now and have it cut to 15"...but I personally don't like the slop that the connector introduces. 
 
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	12-23-2021, 09:59 PM #10Plenty of dead shafts out there to salvage the hardened end from and make a shorty - shorty upper out of. The coupler can't introduce harmonics .. but a weebly-wobbly shaft can ..  
 If your gonna buy a new shaft, get a single bearing 25". They are cheaper than a 20" and you just push the spacer off .. and you now have a two bearing shaft. (Keven K. @ Fuller taught me that trick)
 
 
 $800 *^%^&*I)()&%$ dollars ... Are they out of their %^&**&% mind. Ohh thats right, it's a Mercury part .. well worth it @ twice the price .. 
 
 I found a great use for them little $800 dollar couplers.
 I've had a few nice 3.2L cranks come thru my door that had the splines spun out of them from offshore banzzi running / racing. Yep, bore the end of the crank, turn down the coupler to an interference fit. Heat the crank, deep freeze the slug. Drop it in place, silicon bronze the tip of the stub .. Going off their track record. I think the case hardening might be stronger than the factory crank's splines ..  
 
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	12-23-2021, 11:55 PM #11I like the idea if they had just made the coupler a bit longer and put some orings in the ends so you could grease it. I have modified a few with omc crank end oring retainers works nice no rust. 
 
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	12-24-2021, 12:45 PM #12O ring retainer from an xflow omc crank end... perfect fit. On my omc to merc conversion i welded the coupling on the top side to the upper shaft. Last edited by H2OPERF; 12-24-2021 at 12:54 PM. 
 
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	12-24-2021, 03:04 PM #13Miami D. 
 
 As you know those shafts are chrome plated steel. 
 
 Great idea on how to keep the splines wet. 
 
 Between you G-man and Baja .. no wonder they ain't many used 3.0L sporty's floatin around ..  
 
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	12-26-2021, 11:54 AM #14$800 in part's from Mercury ...    
 
 New wear sleeve and O-ring , from Pro Marine ... $10 bucks 
 
 And a few hours labor .. 
 
  
 
  
 
   
 
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	12-30-2021, 09:13 AM #15Nice work! 
 




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