Power head Studs

**WayneMac2** · 03-23-2020, 01:04 AM

Hi I am preparing to change over my current 2lt power head with an SST120, As part of this i will need to also change over the power head studs.

What is the best preparation for these,

1 loctite.
2 Grease or anti seize

Thanks in advance.

**tux974** · 03-23-2020, 04:47 AM

I use blue Loctite and 10-4-C grease all the way up to block or any grease that is not easily dissolved by water. I love the NLA Merc 101.

**Jay Smith** · 03-23-2020, 04:20 PM

Red loctite on coarse thread that goes in block and anti-seize on fine thread AND all the way up the shaft of the bolt , salt water will “weld” bolts to down housing , just from my experience....My nephew had salt water 150 that I rebuilt took 7 hours of wedging with brass wedge and 3 lb maul opened up enough to sawzall the bolts !!
Jay @ JSRE

**FUJIMO** · 03-23-2020, 05:03 PM

I like tef-gel. and thoroughly clean, flush, spray seal/lube, a salt motor after EVERY use. blue Loctite on course thread ends, waterproof grease on full length of all studs. anti-seize is nasty poopoo.

**WayneMac2** · 03-23-2020, 08:36 PM

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice, its a salt water runner so very conscious of the dangers. being a race boat the power head never sits on the mid for more than two years, my moto is grease is cheap.

What are your thoughts on stainless steel studs ?

Cheers

**WayneMac2** · 03-23-2020, 08:37 PM

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the advice, What are your thoughts on stainless steel studs ?

**Jay Smith** · 03-24-2020, 02:06 PM

I like the high grade carbon steel studs I find SS although good for some applicants I find they are brittle and easy to gaud ...

JMO Jay

**rgsauger** · 03-24-2020, 10:12 PM

Copper coat antiseize goes a long way on getting things back apart later

**mach351** · 03-25-2020, 01:51 PM

After having the typical salt issues 15 years ago, I came up with a solution and have never had an issue again. While it’s all apart, drill four holes in through the side of the tuner plate so it intersects the cavity of each of the long studs. Tap it 1/4-28. Install 1/4-28 stainless zerk fittings. After installing the powerhead and tightening it down put about five shots of grease in there. You’ll feel it hydro lock once the cavity is completely full. The stud is then encapsulated with grease. I usually hit it with one shot of grease every couple times of running. Never had an issue since. Comes apart way easy.

**Capt.Insane-o** · 03-25-2020, 10:16 PM

Never ever use anti sneeze in a salt water application. Like mach351 I've told guys for years to tap the mid with grease zerks in the stud bosses and squirt in a hi grade non moly grease.

**powerabout** · 03-26-2020, 01:34 AM

Originally Posted by Jay Smith

I like the high grade carbon steel studs I find SS although good for some applicants I find they are brittle and easy to gaud ...

JMO Jay

they stretch too so as you say dont work on powerhead or head bolts

**Chaz** · 03-26-2020, 08:18 AM

Maybe some didn't get the memo ...

All the Merc motors I've seen produced in the last 10 to 20 years have 'all" came with stainless fasteners .. including the powerhead studs and head bolts.

Locktite studs in place, only if you like using a torch to get them out next time.

Lucas red and sticky is on sale @ AutoZone, if ya run out of Merc 101

Mach .. thats a good idea ..

Stainless will gaul, if you use the same grade nut and bolt. Any mix of 17-4PH, 18-8 and 316 are considered "dissimilar metals" and will not gaul. But you have to read the manufactures instructions to know that ...