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12-27-2018, 05:01 AM #16
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12-27-2018, 10:46 AM #17(On the Muffs) the engine seems to idle lower and be quieter than normal, has long crank but once running will run until I cut it off.
(In the water) the engine is defiantly quieter and still long cranks and Huckle bucks when put in gear, when given throttle it falls on its face and dies
I knew you'd confess sooner or later ....
The enrichment valve is your choke circuit. It can make them hard to start and run rough if open.
And sometime's when the shift switch is acting up all you have to do is take the plastic block out of the slider rail, turn it around 180* drop it back down, hook the cable back up and you have a new rubbing surface for the detent ball to take the next 20 years to wear a trench in ..
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12-30-2018, 08:49 PM #18
A few years back, Todd D. called one day and said he found some aluminum Quicksilver props on a clearance sale or something like that ... so he bought a hand full of em, I cut the blades down , kept my L.H + R.H. and sent the rest to the other buy in guys. Best money I ever spent ... Poor mans, break in stand, real life troubleshooter platform, dyno ...


Tucked under and wide open , they don't throw any more water around than they are right now. Maybe even less ...

Here's the Merc service bulletin for test wheels ...
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12-31-2018, 01:02 AM #19
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Engine Block Differences
General consensus is that 2000 and later blocks did not have the relief cuts in them, but around 2001 the newer electronics were introduced, which resulted in some mounting boss changes. (48)
Prior to Serial Number 0G960499, the 225/250 engines use the same BLOCK.
Serial Number 0G960500 and UP: 225, 250, and 250 XB use DIFFERENT BLOCK PART NUMBERS (with different porting).
I found this on http://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/ What is the different porting/ What are relief cuts? and is this causing my engine to run poorly?Last edited by Mxdude91; 12-31-2018 at 01:09 AM.
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12-31-2018, 01:03 AM #20
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12-31-2018, 01:19 AM #21
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Chaz, I have tested the fuel enrichment valve and shift interrupt switch they checked out good. I went ahead and pulled the carbs off and went thru them to check for debris and all, they are good.removed reed cage housing and inspected the reeds all good, at this point I think I either have a vacuum leak that I'm unaware of OR the ECU took a dump OR the porting/relief cuts on this block are not jiving....Im going to test the fuel for water.
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12-31-2018, 12:06 PM #22
The props are test wheels. Find a junk one and cut the blades back to like the bulletin shows and you can put it in gear and run it up without throwing all the water out of the cattle ... err ...river ..
The notch is the slot in the sleeve above the exhaust port. Nothing good ever came from that thing. They did away with it and never looked back.
If you have an XB block ... count your blessings.
Bleed lines :
I dont like those little check valves in line. Or those screwy lines that go all over the place. Vnemous ... please show him the page for the 300x where there are 3 simple lines 2003 or 4 I think it is . I use NAPA H-174 fuel line ( trick from Todd ) And then block everything else off with 1/16 pipe plugs.
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Mxdude91 thanked for this post
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12-31-2018, 01:00 PM #23
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12-31-2018, 01:27 PM #24
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12-31-2018, 08:13 PM #25
Paying attention ... Pppffttt .. I told Trump the other day to put you in as Attorney General ..

Yes , notch , slot , idle relief port , fishin motor , soccer mom mini van motor ..
It was just another part of the rubber mount, quiet exhaust, dump some compression (and power) off at idle so the motor doesn't shake, shimmy and make a social nuisance of itself ...
The three main lines on each side ... yes.
You will need one check valve per line. It doesn't matter if it's at the reed, transfer port or even mid line. Flow goes towards the transfer port.
All those other lines that go from one to the other and back to grandmothers house we go are a big vacuum / carb signal loss. Bleed system just needs to be in place to sweep the floor in case any fuel puddles. 1/16" NPT pipe plugs I buy from Jegs or if it's one I'm doing from scratch, I just weld up the ones I don't want to use.
The cut blade props work good. You can load the motor to break it in, rev it up to watch the timing advance, make adjustments, stand next to it while it's wailing away, all without getting wet or hanging out the back of a boat @ 100 mph .. LOL
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01-01-2019, 09:35 AM #26
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Im not trying to make a race engine, just trying to have a reliable "fishin Mota",Chaz I think the bleed lines running all over the place is hideous, but my main concern is if this 250xb block and my 225 carb setup going to work or not, I can't get it to run right. All I want to do is go fishing.. thanks again sorry if I'm bugging you I'm just trying to weed through all the info
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01-01-2019, 05:02 PM #27
Not bugging me, been thru it all before myself. Had all those thin lines with the raised tracer lines on em. The later ones with the blue tracers ... all of em split wide open !
Start it up , have it sneeze like a horse and then have it run like **** . Was always my luck that it would be one of them behind the oil bag or electric plate ..
Thats why I mentioned the better hose and simple routing. It not race stuff , it's reliability. Split a hose and keep riding. Ignore the oil slick and you might chip a reed , knock a few hoses off and it will get lean enough to stick one and saw itself in half. Take it for what it's worth.
Porting , I've hogged early 3.0L blocks out to 300x specs and put carbs on em and they idled and pulled off the bottom fine.
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01-01-2019, 05:36 PM #28
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01-01-2019, 06:02 PM #29
Sounds like simple english to me
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01-01-2019, 06:42 PM #30
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