fixing transom to top seam on old witchcraft

**XstreamVking** · 05-30-2018, 05:05 AM

To start with, make sure the surface is wet. Small 3'' paint roller is good to help with tabs. You can put tabs on any way you like. Butted and/or overlapped by the next layer. Put one layer down and then come back after it kicks and add more. Take your time and get it right. You can start out with some mat also to make it easier to get to glass to conform. If you want to make it even smoother cover it all with mat after the last layer of woven is put on. As far as how much? I don't skimp on the transom glass and figure more is better. Knee contact areas get most attention. Also now is the time to add some glass where the motor bolts are going to be. Your transom contact is prob fine. You had some squeeze out. When drilling for the mounting bolts look for any voids in that area. Or tap around with a screwdriver handle and listen for changes in sound just for peace of mind. You can inject resin if needed, but It would have to be a large void area for it to be required.

**colinJ** · 05-30-2018, 03:05 PM

Ok so do you think I should install knees and keel (with its built in knee) first and then tab or tab first but leave gaps for the knees/keel. Or rather tab first then install keel/knees over the tabs?

I used the mounting holes and trailer eyes as threader clamps with 2x4's, as such there is no gap there. I suspect that the original wood transom was slightly warped and then skin remained a bit warped probably under some tension. It is flush at the center where the allthread pulled it tight and flush along the top near the trailer eyes but I think that lower flanks (right and left) are probably are 1/8" gaped from the transom core. I tried to use the 2x4's pull everything flush together but what happened is with the lower mounting bolts the 2x4 conformed to the back too easily. Also due to some bungled threads it took me way to long to actually clamp stuff up, actually I had regular long reach c clamps down the center right away but It probably took me 10-12 minutes to get the lumber/althread clamps in place and by that time the peanut butter would not be mobile enough too migrate along the gap.

There is also certainly a gap around the perimeter, you can only squeeze in peanut butter so far through a 0-3/8" gap with a putty knife I know it will not have squeezed in the full nearly three inches of transom core. So I am thinking pumping in some resin maybe with 1/4 inch milled fiber to take up any space would be a good idea, if for no other reason than to take up space that would inevitably be be taken up by water. Really this would be almost entirely in compression anyways, it wouldn't matter that it was a resin rich thick joint in some sections.

I can really see why the pour able transom cores like the arjay are popular.

**XstreamVking** · 05-31-2018, 09:19 AM

Pourable transoms are not superior. Just easier. Tab the trans first then install the other parts. For filling voids I use an old empty (or buy new empty one ) caulk gun tube. Find the void and drill a 1/4'' hole in the lower part and a 1/4'' hole in the upper part. Using the caulk gun with a slightly thickened resin in the tube, pump from the bottom till it comes out of the top. Plug bottom hole with a wood dowel plug or a 1/4'' bolt with some tape on it so the resin won't leak out. Just using tape is not good as most resin will not cure when in contact with the sticky part of the tape. And may blow out after you walk away. Keep the hardener level at low to medium to prevent a lot of heat build up. Tapping around should locate the voids. Mark where they are and go from there.

**rjdubiel** · 05-31-2018, 09:33 AM

I have to do that on my Vking transom I replaced. Below the motor transom bolts, but up from the bottom of the transom 3-4 inches, I just couldn't get enough clamping pressure there I guess. It is about 1/8 inch deep at most and about 5-8 inches long, about 2 inches tall. Super easy to fill.

**XstreamVking** · 05-31-2018, 09:49 AM

I back filled so many factory fresh boat transoms when I did warranty repairs it was crazy. One company in particular had a run of boats where every one had a big void. Never saw any with a problem even after being rigged and ran, so it was not an issue and I'm sure there were many others out there that were never filled and still had no issue. As long as the material at the bolt area is solid, it really won't cause any problems. But most of us are o.c.d. and can't stand the thought of a void in our boats.

**colinJ** · 05-31-2018, 10:33 AM

I know a guy with a late 2000s very nice center console fishing boat. Anyways it has a ceramic transom core. He drilled some holes in the bottom of the transom to mount a sounder and he said that about a gallon of water came out of the transom. This was when the boat was only a few years old. I don't recall the make but I think it might be a Roballo.

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

I back filled so many factory fresh boat transoms when I did warranty repairs it was crazy. One company in particular had a run of boats where every one had a big void. Never saw any with a problem even after being rigged and ran, so it was not an issue and I'm sure there were many others out there that were never filled and still had no issue. As long as the material at the bolt area is solid, it really won't cause any problems. But most of us are o.c.d. and can't stand the thought of a void in our boats.

**XstreamVking** · 05-31-2018, 10:54 AM

That sucks. Voids are bad when they fill with water. Usually form blisters on the trans face....Robalo builds a boat that is foam filled with no drain plug...Recipe for disaster.

**colinJ** · 06-03-2018, 11:35 PM

What’s the best way to bed in a 3inch wide keel stringer?

See picture. The Fitment is pretty good since I coped the original seen above it. I will wrap over the top of it.

any ideas on clamping it? The only thing I can come up with is a line of weight plates. Also locating it in the sender with 2x4s between the strakes.

**colinJ** · 06-03-2018, 11:40 PM

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**XstreamVking** · 06-04-2018, 06:20 AM

Put a good 1/8'' layer on the bottom of the keel piece, same on the hull bottom and weigh it down with some weights. Shouldn't take a whole lot to keep it down. Whatever squeezes out just form a radius with it by using your finger or a tool. Medium to low hardener ratio. Cabosil makes a good bedding putty. Add milled fibers if you want.

**colinJ** · 06-04-2018, 11:25 AM

Sounds sensible. I am think it will be difficult to fully bed in owing too the width, so after I get the fillet down sealing around the perimeter I could actually inject some resin through a couple of holes in the center to take up any remaining space. Also I will put down a layer of mat out to the maximum width of the intended tabbing full length.

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

Put a good 1/8'' layer on the bottom of the keel piece, same on the hull bottom and weigh it down with some weights. Shouldn't take a whole lot to keep it down. Whatever squeezes out just form a radius with it by using your finger or a tool. Medium to low hardener ratio. Cabosil makes a good bedding putty. Add milled fibers if you want.

**XstreamVking** · 06-04-2018, 12:02 PM

It will bed in just fine. Just do 1/2 the putty on the piece and 1/2 on the area it is going to be applied. Use plenty of putty.

**colinJ** · 06-11-2018, 12:06 AM

Hey Xtreme, I have about half the tabbing done.n Unfortunately I can't work on the boat every day. Anyways so far so good my technique is to wet out the mat side of the 1708 on a melamine board get all of the pieces I am planning for a round done in one go to get the resin out of the pot. Then wet out the area to be taped real good. I am using disposable 2in rollers. Anyways I then lay the glass out and roll it down, first with the roller (or possibly a corner ridged roller to get the edge in tight), then with the 2 inch roller, then 3" wide 1/2" diameter ridged roller. At this point it will be down and pretty good but if there are any overlaps it will be dry right at the seam. I then come in with a brush and dab more resin into those spots and any other dry spots, and then repeat with the roller more trying to smooth out and make any surface resin even to keep it from being too wet. After its fully tacky but before its dry I usually come in with a rag and wipe out any really wet spots that tend to happen in low inside corners.

Anyways I am wonder if there is a better way to get out the dry spots especially the overlaps? My results look good but this does seem more tedious than it should be. I am using about 1.5% hardener which with this VE gives me 15-18 minutes of pot life but at least 45 minutes when its all spread out on glass. It does seem like it will tend to produce small air bubble after its down that I have to come back and roll out.

I also did by one of those stiff brittle rollers but I am not really sure how to use it.

**XstreamVking** · 06-11-2018, 01:28 PM

Don't be afraid to apply resin as needed to get it really wet out. Glass will continue to absorb resin for some time after it is applied. The bristle rollers are normally used for doing skin coats on molds. They carry some resin and the bristles poke the mat relieving the air. They are for 3/4 oz matt.

**colinJ** · 06-11-2018, 01:58 PM

This really makes sense, I seem to have the best results when I get the 1708 very wet out from the inside, then actually roll it down with just a bit more resin including a nice coat where the 1708 is being applied. This stuff really like tight corners though.

I am up to 4 layers of tabbing at this point, I am going for 6. I was hoping to apply 2 layers at a time but I just don't work fast enough.

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

Don't be afraid to apply resin as needed to get it really wet out. Glass will continue to absorb resin for some time after it is applied. The bristle rollers are normally used for doing skin coats on molds. They carry some resin and the bristles poke the mat relieving the air. They are for 3/4 oz matt.