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  1. #16
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    Sure wish trex was still around. He could explain it better. Atleast so I could understand

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullet123 View Post
    My front is cut .050. Why are 4 petal thicker? I’ve never measured, but it seems the 4 petal cage is closer to crank already.
    Apparently it's not. The spacers are .065 for 5 petal and .125 for 4 petal I think. And the originals for the 4 petal were like .165 maybe? Had clearance issues on some motors.

    I have a set of 4 petals out in the shed somewhere but I haven't been able to find 'em the last couple of times I've looked...
    Josh Peterson

  4. #18
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	F13BA010-C257-4B68-A384-E5AFF4640FBF.jpg 
Views:	75 
Size:	398.1 KB 
ID:	408696 Yep 4 is shorter!!

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  6. #19
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    My front is cut .090 and the pockets that the reed cages sit in has also been milled so the cages sit deeper.
    If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.

  7. #20
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    You’re not a candidate for the stuffers Krazy...
    Josh Peterson

  8. #21
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    Wow!! Did you cut notches in your cages so rod bolts could pass by? Lol!!

  9. #22
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    Now I think I understand. Your front was cut too far, so you had to notch reed holes so the cages didn’t hit ?

  10. #23
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    Not sure what your trying to say to me 123. No rod bolt issues and nothing was cut too far
    If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.

  11. #24
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    Milling front moves reeds closer. Wouldn’t milling reed pockets be counterproductive? Not trying to say anything. Trying to understand.

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    You’re not a candidate for the stuffers Krazy...
    I agree, not with this motor
    If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.

  13. #26
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    The 4’s have more clearance between the bolt bosses of cages and front half allowing you to use thicker stuffers or shave more off the front without running into clearance issues than the 7 petals. When you go more than .050 on a 7’s you will have to deepen the pockets in the half so they won’t hit the half and may even need to make little dimple marks on half to relieve the screws that hold the reeds. You won’t to remove as little as possible to just get enough clearance, otherwise you are deminishing the purpose of stuffing. You can go well over .100 on 4 petals with no clearance issues. The increased velocity is great for low- mid range power. And on agressive ported motors with larger area booster and transfer ports it picks the velocity back up, where otherwise you would have slowed it down without the stuffing, so it helps in higher rpm’s also. Also at higher rpms, you can run a little less exhaust duration to keep mid range power, but still pull higher rpms by allowing cc pressure to overcome the cylinder pressure left during exhaust stroke when the piston uncovers the boost/transfer ports. On a really high reving motor you can get to a point where you have too much cc pressure and extra resistance and heat causes a negative effect. On a motor that stays below 8500, I havnt found where you can have too much, yet.
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 05-28-2018 at 04:53 PM. Reason: mis spelling

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  15. #27
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    That was a great description. If I didn't know any better, if swear you had a motor like mine or yours on your mind as you wrote that.
    If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.

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  17. #28
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    I only cut .070 off mine, but I put a good bit of epoxy in crankcase to make up for it. It works really well for what I do and fool with. I saw improvements from bottom to top when I added the epoxy on top of the .070 with my style of porting. I used epoxy for the fact I could remove it if it didn’t work. Not sure yet where more is too much, when I find out I’ll let y’all know. By biggest concern with adding more is life of the reeds.

  18. #29
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    I misunderstood. Thought you milled pockets on intake. Brain fart!! I’m from the north, kinda slow sometimes

  19. #30
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    Great description..Thanks

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