Attach top side to hull - Hydrostream

[RSWORDS]

I'm pulling my factory rail off and replacing it with the rail from taco marine

http://tacomarine.com/product/V11-31...xible-Rub-Rail

Since the factory rail that held the two halves together is gone how should i attach them to each other?

Will the insert in that rail with screws every 6" be sufficient?

Rail attaches like this

[rock]

I am far from an expert on this stuff but when I did my Vector I removed the rail and epoxied the hull and cap together then used fabric on the inside everywhere we could reach. Has held up for 15 years or more so far with no rail.

Rock

[RSWORDS]

I am far from an expert on this stuff but when I did my Vector I removed the rail and epoxied the hull and cap together then used fabric on the inside everywhere we could reach. Has held up for 15 years or more so far with no rail.

Rock

Yeah, i think that's the route I'm gonna take.

[Scream And Fly]

I am far from an expert on this stuff but when I did my Vector I removed the rail and epoxied the hull and cap together then used fabric on the inside everywhere we could reach. Has held up for 15 years or more so far with no rail.

Rock

Randy, that Vector is beautiful. I really like the all-white color a lot. Very cool.

The way you bonded your hull and deck is the way my X-Stream was built from the factory. Since there was never any metal rail to begin with, they glass the hull and deck together from the inside. There are a few rivets, which must have been placed just to position the hull and deck while they were being glassed.

My boat also has a rubrail very similar to the one in that link, which I believe the newer-generation Hydrostreams came equipped with. I would be curious to know how Hydrostream bonded the hull and deck on the newer boats.

[FrenchPhil]

+1 on the glassing/epoxy but I'd keep the vinyl rail for impact protection.

[1BadAction]

Randy, that Vector is beautiful. I really like the all-white color a lot. Very cool.

The way you bonded your hull and deck is the way my X-Stream was built from the factory. Since there was never any metal rail to begin with, they glass the hull and deck together from the inside. There are a few rivets, which must have been placed just to position the hull and deck while they were being glassed.

My boat also has a rubrail very similar to the one in that link, which I believe the newer-generation Hydrostreams came equipped with. I would be curious to know how Hydrostream bonded the hull and deck on the newer boats.

Wow Greg, I never knew Xstream didn't use the old Hydrostream style rubrail! I always thought yours had the rubber cap on the OEM aluminum rail. I like how integrated and clean that looks, much nicer than the ugly aluminum rails, which are impossible to keep nice.

My Action was glassed together from the factory also, I think it makes the hull more sound, and for a shoebox style joint, gives a whole lot more for the rubrail rivets to hold. Couple that with the "exploding" style rivets and the rubrail isn't going to budge.

[rock]

+1 on the glassing/epoxy but I'd keep the vinyl rail for impact protection.

I always liked the no rub rail look but gotta agree with the impact protection. Total pain in the butt keeping it pristine.

Rock

[FUJIMO]

www.itwplexus.com ...its all thats needed...no mechanical fastening nor inside bonding.

[RSWORDS]

I was thinking of using West system six10 and the screws in the rail.

[Bodhi]

I was thinking of using West system six10 and the screws in the rail.

Six 10 will work just fine. I found that it wasn't thick enough and more expensive than just mixing up epoxy and 403 microfiber. I built mine the same way Rock and Greg did from the inside out. Post pics up when your done

[RSWORDS]

Ordered the rail today. My suppliers at work all wanted a mint to ship the 12' sections of rail insert. Found out west Marine has free shipping to the store so that's a plus. Even though it's more expensive I'm not paying the $200 shipping. Lol

Got the actual rub rail coming through land n sea.

[outasite]

Good bead of 3M 5200, If your sure you don't want to ever take it apart.(home Depot $17)

[W2F a V-King]

I'm pulling my factory rail off and replacing it with the rail from taco marine

http://tacomarine.com/product/V11-31...xible-Rub-Rail

Since the factory rail that held the two halves together is gone how should i attach them to each other?

Will the insert in that rail with screws every 6" be sufficient?

That's actually better than what Hydrostream did with a zillion rivets.
Guessing this is just a rail replacement, as in you didn't separate the deck from the hull?

That (imho) needs more than just the clamped rail.

[RSWORDS]

That's actually better than what Hydrostream did with a zillion rivets.
Guessing this is just a rail replacement, as in you didn't separate the deck from the hull?

That (imho) needs more than just the clamped rail.

Yeah, gonna glue it together with some six10 the put the rail on.

[W2F a V-King]

I am far from an expert on this stuff but when I did my Vector I removed the rail and epoxied the hull and cap together then used fabric on the inside everywhere we could reach. Has held up for 15 years or more so far with no rail.

Rock

This ^^^

I am not expert either. I am in the midst of a deck off stream restore, and will be crossing this bridge myself in the near future.

I don't know what the six10 is, but if it's better than the secondary bond of epoxy, that's great! 3M 5200 is an awesome adhesive as well...

The inner fabric ( I'm using 1.5 oz csm ) belt glassed back in place is key (imo) to getting a strong hull to deck bond. The deck bond and the belted fabric bond create an "T" beam that runs the length of the deck to hull seam. Almost creating like a triangle of glass running the length of that seam. (Got this advise from another member here that did his deck off restore )

Polyester or vinyl ester would work too, but you'd have less work time than with epoxy.

Please post up some pictures !