1987 Valero YT Bowrider...need advice

[Gorilla0178]

Have always used a bands saw to the bevelled edge is easy to shape and carefully with a grinder a radius can be formed Rather than using the dreadful putty any where.

Dreadful putty? You don't need to use any if you don't want to. But there will be no amount of grinding or smoothing of the edges that will make it easier to glass. The edge will be full of half cut honeycomb pores that will be harder to lay glass over. A little (dreadful putty) will help. The best would be to cut all the edges straight and put a fillet of foam on all the edges and sand,grind,bevel,ect, the edges of the foam, then I still would use a little putty on the radius to help keep the air bubbles to a min.

[Gorilla0178]

and nidacore cuts fine with a razorknife. As does any foam core up to about 8lb density. Even 1" thick, although you need to score it bend it open and complete the cut to the last 1/8", Cuts 3/4" right through.

[Gorilla0178]

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...n-25-Liberator

Ask me how I know, the above thread I built 100% of the boat except the transom out of 3/4 nidacore, not one power tool was used to cut any of the raw core.
Not to mention the many other projects ive used it for and not recorded the progress.

[Gorilla0178]

I have to edit that quote...it is $225 for the entire amount (8 4x2 panels). I thought that was a great price considering I was getting quotes of up to 4x that much for high density PVC.....

The edges were a concern of the distributor as well.....Thank you for the advice

Ok that seems more along the price I was thinking.

[XstreamVking]

Gorilla, you have used this honey comb as a hi perf boat core? How did it sound after you ran the boat? I used H-80 divinnycel and mine sounds like i'm running down a gravel road in a light chop. I would guess this plastic is even louder.

[Gorilla0178]

Im sorry, The running surface of the boat was balsa and not rotton (only 7 yrs old) the deck and bulkheads were replaced with nida. And sadly enough I haven't been on it. The owner said it sounds nice and solid. I can inquire more of need be. Im sure as a core in the hull its a little louder than a solid foam core. But again I haven't been out on any of them. But I have no doubt in its stiffness and lightness.

[XstreamVking]

Was just wondering, thanks for responding gorilla

[Gorilla0178]

anytime.

[tunnels]

Im sorry tunnels, what part of (the honeycomb is open when its cut) was misleading? Its composed of (hollow) honeycomb structures. So no its not full of foam, its hollow in the middle.

Think about this if it is not filled with foam what is stopping it from becoming completely filled with resin ????

There is nida honey comb that's completely filled with foam 100% and not hollow inside for a very good reason ! Its really neat stuff to work with , laid onto wet csm wet with vinylester resin and lightly vacuumed down was amazing !We used along the interior side panels of a Korean fishing boat ,panels ran full length each side 20ft longs and 2 foot wide 1/2 thick.

Do you understand the reasoning why its filled with soft closed cell foam ??

Its really quite clever how it works !!but I feel it really needs to be sucked down with about 25% of vacuum pressure to make sure its stuck 100% properly all over !
As I said I've always used a fine blade in a band saw to cut all and any core make a neat clean straight cut every time then just a touch with a grinder to radius the corner!! , no putty muck required any where and no places for air voids along and round the edges anywhere .

And as for sound transfer id think its really sound deadening because its foam filled with closed cell soft foam !!
oooh I can see some arguments and disagreements coming for sure on this subject !!

[dwilfong]

If you cut up some glass really fine and mix it with the epoxy and some cabosil it makes a great filler for the edges of the core.
Try not to open to many cells with a angle cut. It just leaves voids that are hard to keep full. The epoxy will not stay in the cells and just cause air pocket problems in the transition.
The only thing you need to be carful with is the ambient temp of the boat at the time you do the layup. The air temp is not as important as the temp of the piece you are working on.
Best to do it in the morning as the boat will have time over night to cool down some. Just a 10 deg difference will shorten the kick time drastically with epoxy. Any thing over 80 deg is hot for lay up. 70 to 75 is where you want to be on the temp of the boat. Get a cheep laser pointer temp gun and check what you have to work with.
Do a test run with the putty mix and see what the working time is. large amounts of putty will kick quicker than gust resin. Ask me how I know.....LOL
Don't get the slow activator. It is not as strong as the medium. The activator has a lot to do with what you end up with as far as strength. You cure it to slow it is soft to fast and it is brittle.
Use a mix of 50/50 by volume cabosill and epoxy to set the core. do a test run to check the thickness of the mix and use a tile grout trowel to spread the mix. It is just like setting tiles. The mix should stand up just like grout when spread out.
Make sure you use a large roller to roll the core to set it. start in the middle and roll to the out side edges. you don't need sand bags just roll it good. You will feel and hear the air move under the core as you roll it out.
Set all the core first then putty the edges then lay up over the top. Do one thing at a time don't rush it.
It takes 24 hours to let it set between every move.

[Gorilla0178]

What keeps it from becoming completely full of resin? Um.... Im not even getting into a losing debate with you (tunnels). No matter what I answer it won't be right and you'll have a condecending remark. I've used a lot of it and never had any cells fill up with resin. And unless you oversaturated the glass with excess resin and pulled to much vacuum, i don't know how it would fill up. I've never had an issue. But in your infinite wisdom I'm sure you have an answer. And I really don't care what it is. I'm gonna continue on doing things the way they work for me. And there is no issue with a little putty here and there to assist with keeping air bubbles to a min. Especially if your hand laying glass, not everyone has access to the technology and equipment you do.

[PaulR]

I'm on team gorilla!

Read though this thread, apparently I couldn't do anything right on my boat either?

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...alero-Bowrider

[Gorilla0178]

Wow! (In the proper context) for something so wrong it sure looks like it came out right.

[tunnels]

What keeps it from becoming completely full of resin? Um.... Im not even getting into a losing debate with you (tunnels). No matter what I answer it won't be right and you'll have a condecending remark. I've used a lot of it and never had any cells fill up with resin. And unless you oversaturated the glass with excess resin and pulled to much vacuum, i don't know how it would fill up. I've never had an issue. But in your infinite wisdom I'm sure you have an answer. And I really don't care what it is. I'm gonna continue on doing things the way they work for me. And there is no issue with a little putty here and there to assist with keeping air bubbles to a min. Especially if your hand laying glass, not everyone has access to the technology and equipment you do.

You just answered all without even knowing it id say ! Over saturated glass and to higher vacuum BUT the closed cell foam within each individual cell is there to HELP prevent each cell from filling with resin or in the case of thickened resin !!! How thick would the thickened resin it really have to be ?? theirs little or no place for it to go except outwards , cant get into the cell because its got foam inside it ! That's what its there for !
The older nida core we used 2007/8 was foam filled !

Just been on the plascore site and found this >>>PP polypropylene honeycomb is supplied with or without a non-woven polyester veil for better bonding. It is
also supplied with or without a film barrier under the polyester veil to limit the amount of resin consumption .
NEVER TAKE THING AT FACE VALUE ALWAYS FIND OUT AS MUCH AS IS POSSIBLE ABOUT ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING

[Gorilla0178]

Ok, did you think about how much resin it would take to fill all the voids in 1 sheet of nida? This is stupid, if you properly wet out the glass, prewet the core and set it in place, via vacuum bag or, (dear God) weight it down. There wouldn't be enough resin to fill up the core and leave the glass wet. I don't see where this is going. Completely filling up a sheet of hollow honeycomb core is just absurd. Plus I've poured out the last bit of my resin on the core and none of it soaked through and filled the voids, not before I had a chance to roll it out.