Plascore core material

**XXXSTREAM** · 10-06-2016, 08:16 PM

I am with the guys trying to find alternatives to wood. There is a guy local here who uses the plascore for all kinds of interesting projects. It comes in different thicknesses and can be laminated on both sides with different kinds of glass. Stuff seems real stout, smacked with a hammer and can barely dent the stuff. Wondered if anyone had experimented with it. We did a viper with the divinicell in the past, but I have yet to see a foam that will not get saturated yet. I realize if sealed up properly this should be no problem but we all know how that seems to go! Looking to build a comp style boat out of my v king sometime soon so researching materials..

**W2F a V-King** · 10-06-2016, 09:07 PM

That's where I am at right now, planing on building a comp style stringer open floor. I think the lay ups are completely different for the hull, making them lighter overall. And the added stringers must give the hull the rigid foundation, but even they (V-King) comps came with a core laid down. I am hoping for a really light boat when done, without sacrificing strength.

It won't be as light as a real Comp V-King, but hopefully a bit lighter than a stock production one.

James

**tunnels** · 10-06-2016, 11:38 PM

Originally Posted by XXXSTREAM

I am with the guys trying to find alternatives to wood. There is a guy local here who uses the plascore for all kinds of interesting projects. It comes in different thicknesses and can be laminated on both sides with different kinds of glass. Stuff seems real stout, smacked with a hammer and can barely dent the stuff. Wondered if anyone had experimented with it. We did a viper with the divinicell in the past, but I have yet to see a foam that will not get saturated yet. I realize if sealed up properly this should be no problem but we all know how that seems to go! Looking to build a comp style boat out of my v king sometime soon so researching materials..

it is possible to build with no core , no stringers and just 3 different glasses with a little csm between each layer .The secret is in the way the glass layers are orientated within the glass stack .!

**Uncle Dave** · 10-07-2016, 12:44 AM

There is a reason that Skater, DCB, Lavey and a host of others use balsa for their standard rigs .

IF bagged or infused water can't really get to but one small section even if its been penetrated.

Balsas tensile, shear strength and modulus make the man made stuff look piss weak.

Foam core boats over about 24ft put together without a vac bag process are a dice roll as to wether you have voids in the resin/ core bond or not.

UD

**tunnels** · 10-07-2016, 03:21 AM

Originally Posted by Uncle Dave

There is a reason that Skater, DCB, Lavey and a host of others use balsa for their standard rigs .

IF bagged or infused water can't really get to but one small section even if its been penetrated.

Balsas tensile, shear strength and modulus make the man made stuff look piss weak.

Foam core boats over about 24ft put together without a vac bag process are a dice roll as to wether you have voids in the resin/ core bond or not.

UD

yip I totally agree balsa has been round for a long time and has proven it worth !!!

**XstreamVking** · 10-07-2016, 05:54 AM

Bring me any 20 year old boat with balsa below the waterline and I will show you what rotten balsa looks like.

**tunnels** · 10-07-2016, 06:44 AM

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

Bring me any 20 year old boat with balsa below the waterline and I will show you what rotten balsa looks like.

Very simply caused by people not doing there job properly in the first place !! Another reason to use PEEL PLY on the last layers laid !.

**GregAdams** · 10-07-2016, 06:52 AM

H80 is too light for the running surface if you want it to last. If you are going to run it fast on it's tail, and you want good handling, put the running pad stringers in.

**tunnels** · 10-07-2016, 07:11 AM

Originally Posted by GregAdams

H80 is too light for the running surface if you want it to last. If you are going to run it fast on it's tail, and you want good handling, put the running pad stringers in.

Thats part of the reason I asked which H80 foam he was going to use contoured or perforated sheet .!!!

**XstreamVking** · 10-07-2016, 07:15 AM

H-80 has been good in mine for 7 yrs. Many other lower performance boats I have built still running the gulf defect free after 20 yrs? But go to the H-120 if you feel the need....BTW they use the H-120 to core minesweepers......Very tough stuff....

**GregAdams** · 10-07-2016, 07:27 AM

I have built minehunters for the Royal Australian Navy

**W2F a V-King** · 10-07-2016, 07:41 AM

Originally Posted by tunnels

it is possible to build with no core , no stringers and just 3 different glasses with a little csm between each layer .The secret is in the way the glass layers are orientated within the glass stack .!

See, I know this must be true, I haven't discovered how to do it yet. Which 3 different glasses and orientated how?

This V-King is my first restore that has a core.

Two boats similar to the V-King I did 20+ years ago were Checkmates. Early 70's models, 15' and a 16'. Both of these had no core in the hull. No stringers either. The hulls must have been thicker, or laid up in some way like Tunnels is talking about above.

This process of making a hull without stringers and core must make the boat heavier, But a more simple (faster) build than a boat with a core and stringers, why else would the core be necessary?

Interesting thread...Not trying to reinvent the wheel........Just trying to understand it.

It's easy to make a repair copying what was there that failed.

James

**XstreamVking** · 10-07-2016, 08:26 AM

You could make 2 streams with the glass and resin from one of your old checkmates.....

**XstreamVking** · 10-07-2016, 08:27 AM

Originally Posted by GregAdams

I have built minehunters for the Royal Australian Navy

That must have been cool... Very high tech ships!

**1BadAction** · 10-07-2016, 08:34 AM

Originally Posted by W2F a V-King

Agreed, just trying to understand all the options. Cost is not the factor for a small area like the Viking. Balsa is little less than 1/2 the cost of Divinycel. I need 3 sheets of the 32"x48" to do my boat in divinycell, or almost 4 2'x4' sheets of balsa. Balsa over time will deteriorate for sure. $200 vs $100. The coosa is what is gonna hurt

It's a lot more than wood for sure. But once done...it's DONE.

I thought Tunnels didn't use wood in boat building, obviously I was wrong. I've read so many posts on this subject I forget details sometimes.

James

Take a look at https://www.corelitecomposites.com/ VERY reasonably priced compared to some of the other composites.

I've done the floors of my tunnel in the Corelite PET and the transom will go in with Corelite Board, which is a 30 or 35lb density structural composite. In my case I used the 35lb and had them make me a 2" thick sandwiched transom. Called my local contact up, told him the size, a couple weeks later I had a 4 layer thick ready made slab. Without some sort of press you'd never be able to get a transom layup this tight. The samples sold me, but when I got my part I was really impressed. I like the lightweight stuff more than the divinycell I've worked with also, Divinycell isn't bad, I just think this is a bit more durable.

End view of my transom board when it was delivered to me.