What a messss

[Murph]

Yep, CSM (chopped strand mat) and resin.
Also use it to bond any type of cloth in your layup.

[Gorilla0178]

Use a core bond of some kind. Don't try to bed it in csm (chop strand mat). It doesn't fill any voids or uneven spots. You can put the core bond on a little thick and squish it out, it'll help insure that any gaps are filled. Unless the area your bonding to is very flat.

[XstreamVking]

If you are re-installing ply, drill some 1/2'' holes in it to release the air and to ensure that the amount of core bond material is adequate, shown by the excess coming out of the holes.

[dompie99]

I used csm. Thats what they used At the hydrostream plant too.

explains CMS stands for ??

[bigboy]

Resin and chopped strand mat. But like the others suggested. Corebond might Be a better option.

[dompie99]

Geocity closed in 2009

[CharlieN]

I used csm. Thats what they used At the hydrostream plant too.

Correct me if I am wrong, don't most every Hydrostream need a recore? Chop strand matt is not a good way to bond layers.
A structural adhesive such as core bond is far better.

[Murph]

Correct me if I am wrong, don't most every Hydrostream need a recore? Chop strand matt is not a good way to bond layers.
A structural adhesive such as core bond is far better.

Core failure of the the Hydrostram's was due to improper installation not from the use of CSM to install it.
Any time you have massive balsa core failure it is from improper installation.
Balsa must be installed with each individual square covered in resin.
By hand properly saturated balsa embedded down and covered with CSM will last a lifetime.
That means you have to separate the balsa squares and coat with resin.
The other choice today is to bag or infusion it.
I fail to see how balsa can be properly installed by using a core bond.
By bonding it down and then covering in CSM you will never saturate each in individual square of balsa.
Core bond does not have superior bond on plywood in this case I would avoid it.
In this case you would be far better off bonding the plywood to glass with thickened epoxy.
Even if you puncture properly installed balsa and allow water intrusion it should not rot further the compromised balsa square(s).
I would keep the Core Bond for the Composite Cores.

[Varmint]

Core failure of the the Hydrostram's was due to improper installation not from the use of CSM to install it.
Any time you have massive balsa core failure it is from improper installation.
Balsa must be installed with each individual square covered in resin.
By hand properly saturated balsa embedded down and covered with CSM will last a lifetime.
That means you have to separate the balsa squares and coat with resin.
The other choice today is to bag or infusion it.
I fail to see how balsa can be properly installed by using a core bond.
By bonding it down and then covering in CSM you will never saturate each in individual square of balsa.
Core bond does not have superior bond on plywood in this case I would avoid it.
In this case you would be far better off bonding the plywood to glass with thickened epoxy.
Even if you puncture properly installed balsa and allow water intrusion it should not rot further the compromised balsa square(s).
I would keep the Core Bond for the Composite Cores.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there was no core in the tunnels,just the center pad was cored,the tunnels/sponsons were foam filled,all he is trying to do is lay a flat deck. Some guy's just foam core a small triangle in the bottom of each tunnel,and leave the pour in foam foam out,the foam was put in after the deck was installed. the center (pad) was balsa cored,but doesn't come near the deck,because the stringers were installed on top of the core. you build your ladder even with the stringers and there is a huge flange on the hull on each outer side of the tunnels,that you bond the floor onto.,the deck pcs. are cut full width in that hull,and laid from under the dash towards the transom.Under the rear cap you only deck the tunnels,and enough to support the knees,and leave the bilge open for access. from the factory my AE-21 had the deck panels encapsulated with cloth and then bonded with cloth. they used screws to hold it down,but didn't bother taking them out,to fill the holes.

[dompie99]

The ''survey'' guy that came to my boat three weeks ago finally produced his report and he mentioned that the left tunnel was delaminated, ??!!!
I will have to remove the section of the floor and proceed as you guys said with CSM.
As for the humidity level, he did not mention anything about this because he finally figured out that what he was measuring was the wet carpet through the top of the tunnel ( FINALLYYYyyyyyy ).
Oh well, Another job next spring BUT, this time, the boat will be Dry because it's been stored in a heated place and it will finally dry out. GOOdddddddddd

[Varmint]

I don't know how a tunnel/sponson can delaminate, unless it was holding alot of water in the foam, and couldn't drain, or it had a previous repair, from an impact, they actually built those really well, and the core in the pad , and transom was laid up well, the knees,deck and stringers, were very skimpy.i would just pull up the entire deck, and get any foam out, then level all the stringers, even with the sponson tops, and laminate a new deck to it, once you see the outer flanges, on the sponsons, and the large ,flat area between the sponsons, and the stringers with x-members, it will all make sense to you.

[dompie99]

In this drawing (basic) we have a cut view of the HST's with the tunnels, the floor.

When the Survey's guy came in, he measured from the bottom looking up the humidity level so if you look closely, there is only the fiberglass, the plywood and the carpet at this area of the boat. What I was telling is that He measured the humidity of the carpet because the ply was brand new and freshly installed this july 2015. I tried desperately to make him understand WHAT was involved but he NEVER understood a thinggg. grrrrrrr.
Now, I will have to show pictures to the Insurance Cie of the work that was done already and this and that in order to get this boat insured....that,s why i said '' What a mess ''

[FMP]

If the complete job is done, and all is replaced , recored , stringer and all, and new floor is down. Is there an advantage to drill the floor front to back or as needed and re foam with say 2 lb foam for more strength and a better sounding hull in heavier chop? I think I might be inclinded to do so.

[dompie99]

The core in the middle keel was great lookiing and rock solid. The '' weird '' sounding was comming from when he banged the top of the tunnel and, ( MY BAD ) i did not put enough CMS between the top of tunnel and plywood (floor).

[bigboy]

The problem is that wood is too stiff and will not follow the contours of the hull. So you will have to use enough csm and lots of weight at different spots. Drill some holes so excess resin can come out. You might be better of coring the tunnels with balsa or thinner wood and make a seat base. I used balsa vacuum bagged. I made a seat platform in the center. Tried to post a pic with my phone but didn't work.