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  1. #1
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    2.5L vs. 3.0L Engine Weight

    What's the weight difference between the 2.5 & the 3.0?
    My 2.5L weighs I believe 408#'s.

    If somebody built a 3.0 with all the lite weight goodies how much would it end up weighting then?

    Last but not least,
    if such engine was built how many hours can one expect before having to rebuild?

    How much $$$$ can one expect to spend on a project such as this?

    Not for racing, flats fishing boat,
    for the time being anyways.
    Last edited by Riptide; 08-15-2014 at 08:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    The Aeromarine TBDP program lists a 2.5L fishing motor at 406# and 2.5L EFI fishing motor at 416#; the hi-perf 280 EFI at 397# and the 2.5L Offshore at 412#.... the 3L 225hp at 479# and the 225hp Optimax at 505# and 250XS at 523# for what it's worth.

  3. #3
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    What's the max HP one can safely get out of a 2.5L EFI?
    Safely meaning: No paper thin walls, etc.

  4. #4
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    More than you'd want for a flats boat. 280's are the best of both worlds as far as 2.5's go, just my opinion
    Erik Kiser

  5. #5
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    The 3 Liter 225 carbed I had on my boat weighed 505 lbs. Not sure where the extra pork came from but thats what it weighed on the scales at work. Too much for the back of my boat though. The current 2.5 steel sleeve EFI 225 with the lightweight cowling and no VST weighs in at 385 lbs.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by patchesII View Post
    More than you'd want for a flats boat. 280's are the best of both worlds as far as 2.5's go, just my opinion
    Flats boat is a 20'er but it won't be specifically built for that.

    Want to build baby Rat motor, (if you can phrase it as that) for future project for right hull...

    So let's say I go with a 2.5L 280 and install all the goodies, lite weight this, that and the next thing,

    1) What would be a good ball park of how much I'll end up investing just in parts?
    2) Would I be better off having the heads shaved or going with HC dome pistons?
    3) Pro's & con's of going with a welded and balanced crank or should I go with a forged crank?
    4) What type of piston rods? Forged/billet of course, Material: Steel, Titanium????
    5) What kind & type of sleeves will I want to install?
    6) Is there an entire high performance PH kit avail?
    7) Recommended manufactures of high quality parts? Wiseco, who????
    8) Who can you recommend for a ECU which will be needed to finish project or can a stock ECU be adequately reprogrammed for such??
    9) Am I going to need the lower beefed up as well to handle torque?
    Last edited by Riptide; 08-15-2014 at 12:57 PM.

  7. #7
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    Ludington michigan,on the shore
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    1. depending on a few things,rebuilding a 280 will run $2500/$4500 if you use quality parts. 2.Neather.280s have plenty of compression stock,You can go higher,but $6.00 a gallon fuel will get old fast.3.Stock 280 crank is as good as it gets 4.Stock 141 280 rods,No upgrade needed.5.You would not want any sleeve other than stock in a 280 6.Not sure,7.Most parts from pro marine are ether reboxed merc parts or quality aftermarket.8.If you use the 280 electrics ether get a ROS merc box or have simon do a reflash.If you go with 260 style get a Brucato ACU.and have Tony reflash.9.No,use good oil and change every few hours.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, Thought I was going to have to re-invent the wheel.

    Next segment,
    What is an ideal hull, (not a suicide hull) to wrench one of these bad boys onto?

  9. #9
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    Log Cabin City, TX.
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    Check these out, http://www.simmonscustomboats.com/, fastest flats boats in S.TX.
    "If you don't like the way I'm live'n, just leave this long hair'd country boy alone"

    '92 200hp XRi
    '89 XR4
    '88 21' Kenner ST
    '93 18' Ranger 361V
    '96 34' Pace Arrow Motahouse
    '05 Jeep GC 4x4


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