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Thread: my 97 ProV150 to 200 build!
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12-27-2009, 10:05 PM #16
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why so rich. or is it just for safety? THE V6 EXCEL only came with 160 and 168 which was too rich down here. the 1995 pro-v 200 came with 156 but had a 200 air correction. the carbs you plan to run have a drilled or fixed air correction. Have you checked what size it is?
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12-27-2009, 11:14 PM #17
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Thanks for the talk Aaron.
Looks like Excell heads are out of the question and cutting my stock heads is the way I will go with this. Staggered compression of the Excell heads could complicate jetting....
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12-28-2009, 12:17 AM #18
arent the 150 reed cages one sided? if so do you have the 200 ones?
hold on and hope for the best
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12-29-2009, 08:09 PM #19
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I am 99.9% sure my 150 has double sided reed cages as it shares the same part #'s as the 175/200 of the same generation. The old 150's has the single sided cages and bottle necked carbs!!!
I've had the carbs off and looked inside the intake, so I think I would have noticed the single sided cages!!
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12-30-2009, 09:09 AM #20
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Benji many of the late model Pro v 150's were horizantal with the double sided reed blocks. They detuned it with the exhaust divider plate and tuner as well as timing and jetting.
Ray Neudecker Over The Hill Gang Outboard Racing
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150aintenuff liked this post
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12-30-2009, 10:49 AM #21
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What, no snowmobile to play with this winter?
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12-30-2009, 07:43 PM #22
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LOL! I don't want to go off topic!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-c85W_ps1RA
Lots of nitrous...and yes, that's 128mph!
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12-30-2009, 07:50 PM #23
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01-01-2010, 09:49 PM #24
Have a yamaha 115 V4 XL 1988 .
What can be done to make it a little more perky and better get up and go without getting to carried away . It runs as sweet as a nut goes pretty well but would be interested what its possible to do to just add to that extra get up and go and add a little more top end .
Thanks !!
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere !
BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!
so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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01-06-2010, 03:57 PM #25
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01-07-2010, 09:00 AM #26
litle derail
I see on the picture of 87gtNOS's air box he has drilled holes on the outer edges to increase air flow. I have noticed on the S&F site that there are many variances in how people think and cut these air boxes and/or engine cowls.
I have the Yamaha type air box like in the picture and was wondering what you guys think works best? Cutting the sides like in the picture? Cutting holes into the front side of the box so that there is a straight shot for air to go into the carb throats? Another option would be to cut holes in the engine cowl. Again cut them in front on the cowl, on the sides of the cowl, on the top of the cowl or around back like the factory uses which I think works like a cowl induction?
Does this help?
Sorry for all the questions, just wondering if anyone has a solid answer for me.
Or is this another thread that needs to be started and discussed as a fresh topic?
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01-07-2010, 06:27 PM #27
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Dale, I have ran every combination on a motor like yours, Stock air box-gutted air box- velocity stacks- no air box- only thing that changed was it made more noise with stack and without a box( and my wallet was thinner after buying and modifing velocity stacks)-I didn't notice any performance gains- Joe R.QUOTE=dcarter;1868068]I see on the picture of 87gtNOS's air box he has drilled holes on the outer edges to increase air flow. I have noticed on the S&F site that there are many variances in how people think and cut these air boxes and/or engine cowls.
I have the Yamaha type air box like in the picture and was wondering what you guys think works best? Cutting the sides like in the picture? Cutting holes into the front side of the box so that there is a straight shot for air to go into the carb throats? Another option would be to cut holes in the engine cowl. Again cut them in front on the cowl, on the sides of the cowl, on the top of the cowl or around back like the factory uses which I think works like a cowl induction?
Does this help?
Sorry for all the questions, just wondering if anyone has a solid answer for me.
Or is this another thread that needs to be started and discussed as a fresh topic?[/QUOTE]
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01-07-2010, 07:13 PM #28
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere !
BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!
so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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01-07-2010, 07:19 PM #29
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We have a few generations of these motors out a DoktorC's cottage....my 97 cowl is pretty restrictive compared to a 08 300 HPDI.
What about the vent in the engine cowl ? done any mods to that??
Rick can elaborate, he has looked closely at all of them.
We are going to open up mine, maybe within the next month....there's an inner part that can be opened up.Last edited by 87gtNOS; 01-07-2010 at 07:23 PM.
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01-07-2010, 08:48 PM #30
What about the vent in the engine cowl ? done any mods to that??
[/QUOTE]
I run an HPDI hood on a non-HPDI motor which doesn't allow me to run an airbox...I doubt that any make more power with stock carbs. If you're drilling your airbox you may as well take it off...no sense going half way.
As far as hoods go...I noticed when comparing a 3.1 250 cowl to a 3.1 225 cowl that the 250 had HUGE air inlets that the 225 did not. That surprised me...since I figured that easy of production would mean that all 3.1L hood would be the same. I applied the same logic to my 200 hood...in now has alot more breathing space. I still pick up speed with the cowl off...but I haven't figured out whether that is an aerodynamic issue or a breathing issue.'08 SRV
Yamaha 3.1 Phase III





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