1989 Mariner 175Ski

[skialot2]

Took the head off again, and I saw no sign of water breach, and the head and block look flat. I seriously think there is some other issue causing such a severe loss of water pressure.

All the water going through the small side of the poppet is also bypassing the pressure gauge. Pull the poppet cover. Put water to it and plug the small side of the poppet temporally even with your finger and check the pressure difference.

[tlwjkw]

that "extra hole" some are so concerned about will have nothing ta do with your problem.. its been there since tha very first day that motor was born... have you actually put this motor in tha water and under a load or is all this jus being done in tha driveway??.. did you get a gauge??? if so, where did ya plug it in?.. did you use a good straight edge to check those surfaces??? have you pulled tha divider plates to check for problems warped/cracked/gaskets there???... have you pulled tha power head to check tha adapter plates/gaskets???

jus how do you know its getting "hot"??? gauge (where ya gettin' tha reading?) and/or warning buzzer?.. this should have been asked a long time ago....

and yeah, that piston thing can cause all kinds a problems and still run (+ produce a knock sound).... until it self destructs.

[tlwjkw]

This^^^

I’m sooo glad my 1990 2.4/200 was converted by the previous owner to 16A/clamshell cowl. It does still have the extra hose from the small side of the 4-bolt poppet, up to the top. But no water cooled regulators.

-Peter

yeah, they kept tha extra hose after tha water cooled crap went away.. it did help with tha balance of tha overall coolin' system... it lasted tha complete life cycle of tha 2.5....

[Glastron1987]

that "extra hole" some are so concerned about will have nothing ta do with your problem.. its been there since tha very first day that motor was born... have you actually put this motor in tha water and under a load or is all this jus being done in tha driveway??.. did you get a gauge??? if so, where did ya plug it in?.. did you use a good straight edge to check those surfaces??? have you pulled tha divider plates to check for problems warped/cracked/gaskets there???... have you pulled tha power head to check tha adapter plates/gaskets???

jus how do you know its getting "hot"??? gauge (where ya gettin' tha reading?) and/or warning buzzer?.. this should have been asked a long time ago....

and yeah, that piston thing can cause all kinds a problems and still run (+ produce a knock sound).... until it self destructs.

All driveway so far.

Yes, I used a pressure gauge connected to the fitting on the top of the motor that read about 1 psi.

Used infrared temp gauge to determine overheating. Usually, I'd shut the motor down before the buzzer but it did trigger once.

I'll double check my straight edges, but I used 2 of them with no reason to think that they are bad.

Have not checked the divider plates or pulled the power head yet. I wanted to try the easy stuff first.

[Glastron1987]

looks like you have one of tha very first of tha water cooled reg/rect. motors... first '89's didn't have tha hose from top down to tha poppet.. that came later in tha year model ('89) ta help keep tha reg/rec cool.. yours is for an added water pressure gauge....

Oh, that sounds like an extra complication.

[tlwjkw]

1 psi at tha top of tha motor is not good.. thats a direct path (look at tha dia.) from tha pump without any interference or change of direction except tha tube, grommet in tha bottom plate and tha plates themselves.... no mater.. if ya gonna fix tha one hole its gotta come off and apart anyway unless ya planin' ona tryin for tha "cheap" which usually fails eventually sooner or later... your choice.... jmo.

jus thought i'd add this little tid bit.. tha more ya fool with it chasin' this over heart problem tha more ya gonna make tha motor more broke than it is now so ya you need ta get off tha over heat thing and get with fixin' tha thing thats apparent.. you should find tha over heat problem along tha way.. justa suggestion while ya still have something that can be fixed with a reasonable amount of $$$.. if it sticks a rod through tha block tha over heat problem will go away also... jus somethin' ta think about.............

[tlwjkw]

Oh, that sounds like an extra complication.

it "was".. merc fixed it by eliminating tha water cooled rec/reg after a short run...

[Glastron1987]

Yeah, I'll focus on the rod now.

[tlwjkw]

good idea.. jus remember that on assy. "everything clean, clean, clean".. did i mention clean?

good luck is with ya.

might wanna get tha injectors checked/cleaned while ya have it down.. cheap insurance.

[Aaronhl]

I cleaned up the poppet plates with sandpaper on glass and a sanding block. There actually was one spot on one of the edges that looked suspicious and may have been causing the leaking. I ran the garden hose through the water tube to test, and it appears to be good now with no leaking.

Also, when running the garden hose through the water tube I noticed, as before, that water would come out of the port thermostat hole but not the starboard side ...until I blocked the port side. Then water would come out from the starboard side no problem. Is that normal?
Attachment 526900Attachment 526901

Also, around the garden hose, I assume there was leakage because it was not clamped to the water tube, but there was this constant stream behind the hose coming down from the midsection. It's tough to look up there to find the source, but anyone know what that could be? Seems like that may not be normal and could be robbing the system of some volume.Attachment 526904

what psi do you get with garden hose connected and everything else bolted on?

[XstreamVking]

No mention seen of the rubber grommet that the plunger/spring assembly seats on in the block. Check to see if it's missing or torn?

[Glastron1987]

what psi do you get with garden hose connected and everything else bolted on?

I didn't try that. I'd have to take the LU off again to try that, not to mention put the head back on. The 1psi was with it running.

[Glastron1987]

No mention seen of the rubber grommet that the plunger/spring assembly seats on in the block. Check to see if it's missing or torn?

The grommet, spring and plunger were all replaced brand new.

[Aaronhl]

The grommet, spring and plunger were all replaced brand new.

There is also the plastic spacer that you press (hammer) into the block but i am not sure that is causing the overheat issue

[pcrussell50]

There is also the plastic spacer that you press (hammer) into the block but i am not sure that is causing the overheat issue

valid point. We learned in one of the bridge port threads that since the BP didn’t come with a poppet, if you wanted to add one, you had to machine or hand-fit the hard plastic spacer into the recess in the block where it would normally go if it were a fish motor and not a BP.

I doubt this would apply to the Ski, but you never know. The hard plastic disc should be in place with the four staking holes around it. Or is it three staking holes?

-Peter