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  1. #121
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    That's the "grommet" part I was thinking of. Have had them crack and fail causing low pressure, and over heat.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  3. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    That's the "grommet" part I was thinking of. Have had them crack and fail causing low pressure, and over heat.
    Darn, that would be a horrible way to lose a cherished engine. You could be a good maintainer and a gentle, non-abusive driver and still lose your motor.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  4. #123
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    Never burned one up. Yet... Having the right gauges is crucial. Pressure AND temp. I have a sender in each cyl. head with a selector switch before the gauge on 2 of my boats.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  5. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronhl View Post
    There is also the plastic spacer that you press (hammer) into the block but i am not sure that is causing the overheat issue
    I left that spacer alone. It looked OK, and I figured I could get into a mess trying to remove it.

  6. #125
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    Hope all that (i.e. XRI/EFI) luggage I had to remove is worth it compared to a carb engine Alos, I could not remove the connecting rod cap and bearing from the front of the engine like I did on a 150 a while back. In any case I got it out from the back. The only possibly strange thing I see now is the space between the connecting rod and the piston. Not sure if that is normal or could cause some slap.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #126
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    That's normal for a bottom guide setup.

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  9. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    That's normal for a bottom guide setup.
    What is a bottom guide setup?

  10. #128
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    The v6 mercs used the crank to center the rod before 1991, this is bottom guide. After 91 they centered the rod with the piston, referred to as top guide.

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  12. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    The v6 mercs used the crank to center the rod before 1991, this is bottom guide. After 91 they centered the rod with the piston, referred to as top guide.
    Thanks, interesting. That's a new one for me.

  13. #130
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    So what's the trick to getting those pesky piston pin retainers back in? My fingers and small screwdrivers don't seem to do it.

  14. #131
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    A pair of needle nose pliers and bloody fingers, unless you have the special tool, but kinda hard to find as they are made to the specific wrist pin size. Do a search for piston circlip installation tool. Maybe you find the correct size ,or get a idea how to make your own..( which could be done out of a old scrap piston, and pin.)

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  16. #132
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    for cir clip install (and wrist pin)... it works with wrist pin install also.. it will keep tha shims in place when ya push tha pin in.... look it and tha parts over and you should be able ta tell how that part will work.. jus makes it a tad easier...

    part number 91-77109A 3... pricey but worth every penny... jmo
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-04-2023 at 05:19 AM.

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  18. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    A pair of needle nose pliers and bloody fingers, unless you have the special tool, but kinda hard to find as they are made to the specific wrist pin size. Do a search for piston circlip installation tool. Maybe you find the correct size ,or get a idea how to make your own..( which could be done out of a old scrap piston, and pin.)
    Well, I have an old piston and pin. Not sure what mods I'd have to make though. Have to think about that.

  19. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    for cir clip install (and wrist pin)... it works with wrist pin install also.. it will keep tha shims in place when ya push tha pin in.... look it and tha parts over and you should be able ta tell how that part will work.. jus makes it a tad easier...

    part number 91-77109A 3... pricey but worth every penny... jmo
    Thought getting the pin in with those needle bearings would be tricky, but with the assembly grease it went pretty easily. I've done clips before but don't remember how tricky it can be. I'll look at that tool. Yeah pricey. Hope that works for the 2.4 as well as the 2.5 that is indicated.
    Last edited by Glastron1987; 12-04-2023 at 07:00 AM.

  20. #135
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    all 2.0, 2.4, 2.5.....

    it will pay for itself by savin' cost of neosporin and band-aids...........
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-04-2023 at 09:50 AM.

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