New to me 2.4L Bridgeport EFI no start / fuel system questions

[mxr181]

Also got injectors flowed professionally yesterday, they were within 6% but he said he did get dirt & debris out of them during cleaning and they are now with 4%. I’m sure they would have been fine but it’s nice to know for sure. Also adding a fuel pressure gauge to the rail tonight.

thank you all for your help! Hoping to get it wet Sunday if all goes well!

side note, the trim is not currently wired and he gave me two solenoids to use for up & down. Is this the right way to do this? Piggy back power & ground to both and just run the signal wires to each independently? It’s just changing polarity right? Seems like there should be a cleaner way to do it. I will say it has the blinker style deal and looks like he ran separate wires in the boat for it.

also has newer bobs hydraulic Jack plate but seems stuck / frozen in down position. It’s making a light buzzing when you try to move it up but doesn’t move. Need to figure that out. Battery is fully charged.

[Baker343]

Tlwjkw, like the new profile picture.

[OnPad]

Also got injectors flowed professionally yesterday, they were within 6% but he said he did get dirt & debris out of them during cleaning and they are now with 4%. I’m sure they would have been fine but it’s nice to know for sure. Also adding a fuel pressure gauge to the rail tonight.

thank you all for your help! Hoping to get it wet Sunday if all goes well!

side note, the trim is not currently wired and he gave me two solenoids to use for up & down. Is this the right way to do this? Piggy back power & ground to both and just run the signal wires to each independently? It’s just changing polarity right? Seems like there should be a cleaner way to do it. I will say it has the blinker style deal and looks like he ran separate wires in the boat for it.

also has newer bobs hydraulic Jack plate but seems stuck / frozen in down position. It’s making a light buzzing when you try to move it up but doesn’t move. Need to figure that out. Battery is fully charged.

The trim went from a afterthought in the early years, with solenoids in the boat, no trim switch on cowl and wires everywhere. To later versions with solenoids on engine, and later yet to what look like relays, with a switch in cowl, and integrated boat harness.
You can wire it like you said. Green is down, blue is up.

You might want to check you wiring on jackplate, it's going to have relays, or solenoids also. If that looks good, take the electric motor off, and see if you can get it to spin freely.

[tlwjkw]

Tlwjkw, like the new profile picture.

thanks bud.. accidently ran across it on this thing... forgot it was on here... my kid a coupla years before he was killed.................

[mxr181]

Wow, no idea what happened but I’m sorry your son was killed!

[mxr181]

Was hoping to splash it today but it looks like I don’t have part of the poppet assembly #7 in this diagram, looks like it is another sandwiched metal plate. Thinking I will need #6 as well since the plate I have is flat without a relief for the poppet assembly?

[mxr181]

For the trim solenoids, I found the diagram and proved everything is working but I do not see room to mount them on the motor anywhere. Do these normally go in the boat or stuffed on the motor somewhere? Maybe I’m missing a bracket or something.

Found the brown with white wire is trim gage signal, then figured out the sender is all busted up, once I replace that, assuming just ground wire at the sender and hook to brown/wht and hopefully I’ll have a working trim gauge?

Jack plate is good, found a crimp on the ground side that came out.

[pcrussell50]

For the trim solenoids, I found the diagram and proved everything is working but I do not see room to mount them on the motor anywhere. Do these normally go in the boat or stuffed on the motor somewhere? Maybe I’m missing a bracket or something.

Depends on the age of the mid. Around mid-80’s and earlier there was a single ram for trim and tilt, with the pump and reservoir and solenoids mounted in the boat, and hydraulic lines running out of the splash well and to the TnT ram. IIRC some racer types around here like that setup. I forgot why.

Thereafter, there were three rams, two for trim, one on each side, and one for tilt in the middle. The pump and reservoir are both intermixed with the rams, and the solenoids are screwed into bosses on the air box.

-Peter

[mxr181]

Gotcha, my trim setup is all built into the mid / transom mount so it sounds like I have the 2nd setup but because it’s a Bridgeport no mounts on the airbox. Will have to figure something out but not a lotta room and I want to keep it tidy. Thank you for the info!

[OnPad]

The pic in post 63 shows the solenoids. Theres a sheet metal bracket that bolts to the intake manifold.

The parts you need for your poppet are in post 54 and 55. Your going to also need a different poppet cover , the middle poppet divider piece, and all the small parts.

On most fishing motors the thermostat hoses are routed a bit different than your motor. The main dump hose goes to the adapter plate where your poppet cover hose is going now. There's a tee in this hose that acts as your pizzer. I'm sure theres a few ways about it, but think about teeing your adapter plate into the thermostat dumps. I can send you a pic tomorrow,.. if ya want?

[pcrussell50]

Gotcha, my trim setup is all built into the mid / transom mount so it sounds like I have the 2nd setup but because it’s a Bridgeport no mounts on the airbox. Will have to figure something out but not a lotta room and I want to keep it tidy. Thank you for the info!

I too have the newer TnT, also went with the tidy approach: on mine, the blue/green/black wire bundle from the pump was plenty long enough for me to run it into the boat with the rest of the harness, so I moved the solenoids to the transom, on the inside. (I have a plywood board there, where I have a power distribution block anyway).

So now the motor is extra tidy without the solenoids and extra wires. My 2.4/200 is carbed and I can take the air box off any time without having to remove a bunch of solenoid wires too. Very happy.

-Peter

[62 bugzilla]

Was hoping to splash it today but it looks like I don’t have part of the poppet assembly #7 in this diagram, looks like it is another sandwiched metal plate. Thinking I will need #6 as well since the plate I have is flat without a relief for the poppet assembly?

I missed part 15 and 16 for in the motor area and I think that's why i got water to the top of the heads for the first time but still no pressure since it wasn't sealed off all the way. Should be here tomorrow and I'll try again before I tear it all apart again.

[mxr181]

Thank you onpad & pcrussel!

yeah I see that now, thank you for posting the info, I ordered the part number that was posted thinking it was complete but it’s obviously a rebuild kit intended to reuse with the sandwiched plate and normal fishing poppet cover. Both are ordered, should hopefully see this week and hopefully get to run this thing this weekend.

I think I’ll make a small sheet metal plate to mount behind the EFI box and mount the solenoids to that to keep wire length down although would prob look nicer mounted in the boat.

onpad I think I understand what you mean with dump plumbing but as they say a picture is worth 1000 words and would def be appreciated!

[OnPad]

Hope you guys are riding soon!
A pic of fishing, and most promax exit hose.

[62 bugzilla]

Hope you guys are riding soon!
A pic of fishing, and most promax exit hose.

THANKS FOR PICTURE THIS ONE i WAS WONDERING ABOUT TOO. MINE WAS SEPERATE AND I WILL PLUMB INTO MY HOSE AS WELL.