Resins????

[W2F a V-King]

I also bought all my epoxy and glass from US composites, Great people to buy from.
As to blushing, the 3:1 didn't blush on me except on areas of puddling that I missed when removing puddles. But, I was doing my glassing in a very cold basement, so this extended the set up time...I "think" the blushing comes with faster curing times....Just my observation....I'm not sure.

I did however wash each time I glassed, unless I was laying another layer on within 4 hours of the previous session. I used cheap rubbing alcohol and a scotch brite pad to prep for any blushed areas.

IMO, the alcohol is the best clean up material to use on all clean ups, brushes, rollers and pans...etc..
The epoxy is clean and easy to use, and works with US Composites 1708 and the mat belting I bought just fine...Think the guys name at US Composites was Steve..iirc.

Oh, and get the pumps for dispensing = accurate measuring and no spillage...

http://www.uscomposites.com/faq_epoxy.html#13

[Hydrodreams]

OK 10-4 Gordon thanks for the tips! I noticed on my test spot (not in the boat by the way) how much effort it took to get the 1708 completely saturated. I laid it on thick and matted it in with a roller. I noticed the haze you spoke of so I scratched it with 80 grit. I applied a second coat about an hour ago and the 1708 is all but transparent already. Again I put it on pretty thick. Should I go thick or many thin coats of resin? Also looking ahead, I feel as though I should scratch the resin a bit once more prior to installing the carpet glue/carpet on the floor. Is this correct? I love working with this stuff..it's very cool!

[Gordon02]

I like wetting the fabric on the table because "gravity is your friend". The 1708 will soak-up the 3:1 much quicker and more evenly when wetted flat. Give it a minute or two and it will continue to turn transparent. I have my layers cut to shape and stacked in the reverse sequence that I want my lay-up to match. We make ours with small 12~16 ounce batches in measured quart mixing cups that we get from a local paint shop for 31 cents each. These may seem too small, but I will tell you that 24 ounces will "go off" real quick and there is nothing you can do but set the cup on the concrete and watch it melt the cup and smoke! We pour ours out onto the 1708 and roll it with a 4" cotton, short nap roller. Of course these rollers are trashed after each batch, but they transfer/smooth the epoxy extremely well. A 10 pack usually cost us $4, well worth the convenience. We clean the roller handle as soon as we pull the roller. Get it wiped clean before it tacts and your handle is ready for the next batch. Gordon

[racer]

A few things you may want to know. If area you work on with epoxy ever has an issue you need to do any further repairs with epoxy. Epoxy will bond to cured poly without issue however poly will not have a good bond to cured epoxy or vinyl ester. Using extra resin does not add to the strength just makes for what is known as resin rich, you only want to us enough to wet out the material and then depending on material used you can remove the excess in various manners.

[W2F a V-King]

"Generally" speaking the epoxy has a better secondary bond than other resins.
racer brings a great point...once you go with epoxy, you will need to stay with epoxy, which may be a good reason to go with epoxy when restoring/repairing an old boat that you got used...you never know what the previous owner did to the boat, or what he used.
You can roll over the freshly laid area to compress and bring excess resin to the surface to be removed as racer mentioned.

[Hydrodreams]

Thanks guys I am using epoxy resin all the way. Forgive my enthusiasm but this stuff is amazing to work with!

[W2F a V-King]

I agree 100%. Have used poly for many things over 40+ years and several boat restore projects. I am an amateur, not a pro..... This V-King restore I'm doing is my first time with epoxy. For a few reasons, I'll likely never use anything else but epoxy.
Your going to have some fun.... We love pictures of progress here

[LakeFever]

So with a core replacement the process would be;

clean out old core, and surface prep
epoxy core down dry?
Wet out core THEN start glass layup?
Or Wet out core and lay up 1st layer at same time?

I was planning to vac bag mine so do I vac bag each layer? Core too?

[Hydrodreams]

Check out W2F a V-King's link on his posts. It has great step by step info and pics. Here is another good link:https://www.hydrostreamforums.com/vi...hp?f=13&t=2817
This one has is a cap on restore. As much as I love looking at pics I hate taking them. I usually find myself wrist deep in dust or resin when I think of taking them. lol I am grateful for the guys who do. Good luck and have fun!

[Will hedrick]

I thought it was to good to be true, thanks for the info guys

[W2F a V-King]

So with a core replacement the process would be;

clean out old core, and surface prep
epoxy core down dry?
Wet out core THEN start glass layup?
Or Wet out core and lay up 1st layer at same time?

I was planning to vac bag mine so do I vac bag each layer? Core too?

Vacuum bagging advice would best come from a pro, wait for XstreamVKing to respond here...

I wet my core bottom before bedding with thickened epoxy, and then wet the top before covering with 1708.

I ground, sanded out and prepped the hull then cleaned by soapy pressure washing and rinse, then a complete drying before starting glass work.

One side note, I used one whole continuous piece of 1708 under and another whole one piece over the compound core no cuts. Not sure if it helps the overall structure, but that was my thought for doing this. Bought 50" wide 1708.

I rolled after every layer of glass and removed excess epoxy resin.

I have more pictures of the finished structure, not painted completely yet. Guess I need to go add to that thread.

But, XstreamVKing is the man to get advice from.

[XstreamVking]

W2F...You did it the right way as far as I know. (nice job btw) Vac bagging, is not my forte' but I would glass the bottom and apply the core with putty in one shot. 1 side at a time probably. Then laminate the covering glass, then bag again. This would prevent the heat buildup that can happen if too much material is applied at once and make the job easier by breaking it up into smaller procedures. This is dependent on whether the fast or slow hardener is used and ambient temp the cure will happen at.

[LakeFever]

Very solid tips thanks gents! I am feeling pretty good about the procedure I really enjoy learning before and visualizing before doing something new. I learned about this in sports training and it really works well for me. I can literally see myself laying down core now haha

I am thrilled looking forward to digging in and gettin er done. Love a good project, especially one that looks so fine as a Hydrostream Probably do one or two more before my time is up as well. Yee haw

[XstreamVking]

Visualization is a very good way to prep for almost anything.

[LakeFever]

Yes it sure is. I can see myself with that big grin next summer ripping down the lake already