CLE oozing gear lube

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-10-2017, 07:53 PM

After I come back from few laps around the lake and some full throttle runs, when I put the boat on the lift and raise the lower unit out of the water, it starts pushing gear oil from what appears to be a vent or weeping hole.

What do I have going on here?

Is this normal?

**rock** · 07-10-2017, 08:33 PM

May have been overfilled or you have a bad shift shaft seal.

Rock

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-10-2017, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by rock

May have been overfilled or you have a bad shift shaft seal.

Rock

So...what do I need to do?

Should I drain the lower unit or pull it?

**WillySteve** · 07-10-2017, 09:04 PM

If it's the shift shaft seal you'll also have water in the LU. If so you'll have to pull it to get to the bushing that holds the seal.

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-10-2017, 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by WillySteve

If it's the shift shaft seal you'll also have water in the LU. If so you'll have to pull it to get to the bushing that holds the seal.

Okay, fingers crossed there's no water in the lower unit when I drain it.

**rock** · 07-11-2017, 06:14 AM

If it was mine I would buy a seal kit from Pro Marine and change them all. I just did one last night. It does take a couple special tools but other than that is fairly easy to do.

Rock

**FORBESAUTO** · 07-11-2017, 07:26 AM

Very sound advice! Listen to the Rock. Seal kit cheap compared to what could happen if you have a leak. Also when filling leave a little space for expansion. Good luck!

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-11-2017, 08:00 AM

What other special tools do I need besides the bushing socket?

**eli** · 07-11-2017, 08:05 AM

from my experience when lube comes out there is water coming in ,time for pressure test

**rock** · 07-11-2017, 08:06 AM

You will need to pull the guts out to change all seals. Cover nut tool and the bushing tool. The kit form Pro comes with all the seals and a new bushing for the shift shaft. I made all my tools and it isn't that difficult to do. You are not all that far away if you would like to come down and do it here.

Rock

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-11-2017, 08:11 AM

Originally Posted by rock

You are not all that far away if you would like to come down and do it here.

Rock

Thank you. I'll let you know once I've drained the lower unit.

**WillySteve** · 07-11-2017, 09:36 AM

I made my shift shaft tool from an old craftsman 7/8" 12pt socket and a grinder. Just grind the face down and leave the two dogs sticking out. It's worked fine for 30 years!
I've also changed the 2 propshaft seals hundreds of times without removing the carrier. It takes a sharp stout pick or a long small drill and a long drywall screw but take your time and it can be done. The two seals are rarely pushed to the bottom of the carrier. Use the pick or drill to make a pilot hole to screw in the drywall screw.

One more thing, if the shiftshaft seal is bad, water will be sucked into the gearcase as it cools down from running.
ALSO, Don't Forget to change the driveshaft seals at the base of the waterpump!

**CHICKENHAWK** · 07-11-2017, 10:14 AM

I have a part number for the seal kit, 26-89238A2.

Is this the correct number?

As for the water pump kit I tried googling Mercury CLE water pump kit and so far I've found about four different part numbers.

Does anybody now what the correct number is for the complete kit or if there even is one?

**STV_Keith** · 07-11-2017, 10:49 AM

Out here in Vegas, it gets pretty darn hot. Ambient temps >110*F, and the cases get really hot sitting in the sun. I would see some leakage there also. My guy is really good about checking everything after going through a case or doing a water pump. We/he always puts 15psi in the case, then pulls 15in-hg of vacuum to ensure no leaks. We wait to see if the pressure/vacuum drops over about 10 minutes. If not, it's good to go.

That said, we found that with the high temps, some fluid would get pushed out of the case. What we started doing is filling the cases, put in the top plug, remove the fill at the bottom and let about 2 oz drain out. This creates some airspace in the case above the oil, so as the oil expands with heat, the air gets squished. Since the oil won't compress, it will just squeeze out, but the air will compress when necessary and keep fluid from leaking out. This also means that as the case cools, the air decompresses and fills the space instead of fluid pushing out then pulling water back in under vacuum once some fluid has been evacuated.

**JCSmile** · 07-11-2017, 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by STV_Keith

Out here in Vegas, it gets pretty darn hot. Ambient temps >110*F, and the cases get really hot sitting in the sun. I would see some leakage there also. My guy is really good about checking everything after going through a case or doing a water pump. We/he always puts 15psi in the case, then pulls 15in-hg of vacuum to ensure no leaks. We wait to see if the pressure/vacuum drops over about 10 minutes. If not, it's good to go.

That said, we found that with the high temps, some fluid would get pushed out of the case. What we started doing is filling the cases, put in the top plug, remove the fill at the bottom and let about 2 oz drain out. This creates some airspace in the case above the oil, so as the oil expands with heat, the air gets squished. Since the oil won't compress, it will just squeeze out, but the air will compress when necessary and keep fluid from leaking out. This also means that as the case cools, the air decompresses and fills the space instead of fluid pushing out the pulling water back in under vacuum once some fluid has been evacuated.

This is good advice. Fill until full then drain 2oz.