Brakes or no brakes

**mjw930** · 10-02-2016, 10:42 PM

In Florida trailer brakes are not required for trailers rated for less than 3000 lbs total weight. It's a fairly universal requirement though I'm sure there are some variations state to state.

That being the case I'm getting varying input when I ask whether brakes for a boat / trailer combo pushing that weight limit would be better off with them, adding a certain level of additional safety.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom here is on say a tandem axle trailer with a combined boat / trailer weight of 2900 lbs? Personally I'm leaning towards brakes on one of the the two axles as a compromise between nothing and an over the top setup of brakes on all axles. Or would I be wasting $$$ on brakes I don't really need?

For background the tow vehicle is a RAM 1500 and I've always had brakes on my boat and enclosed trailers, surge, electric and electric over hydraulic so it's what I'm used to.

**XstreamVking** · 10-03-2016, 04:37 AM

Brakes and saltwater=disaster........If you have to pull a heavy trailer then you gotta have brakes. One that gets by with the wt limit rating and is legal, no way I'm putting brakes on it.

**John S** · 10-03-2016, 05:48 AM

Brakes are one of those things that seem unnessecary until you're in an o **** scenario, and then you're really glad you have them. Its beyond me why anything bigger than a garden tractor trailer isn't made to have them. Are they an extra maintenence item, yes. But when you need to stop in a panic situation, they're the difference between finding yourself buried in someone's bumper, or worse yet, sideways or in the ditch.

My Allison's were the only,trailers I didn't ever,have,brakes on, and I wasn't to keen on it. I've had a couple situations where I needed to brake fast, and I can tell you that the time without brakes on the trailer was quite a bit more "interesting" for lack of a better term. The trailer wants to go rogue when it does't have brakes, if given the choice, I would always go brakes.

**W2F a V-King** · 10-03-2016, 06:14 AM

A lot of this depends on your tow vehicle. A 3K trailer boat combo will push a small tow vehicle pretty easy on a hard stop. Yes, normal stops are OK at best.
But a sudden panic stop would be a bad situation.
Your 1/2 ton pick up is good, as long as your tires are kept up to par for towing.

Also depends on how far you plan to go to the dock. I lived in Cape Coral for almost 20 years, and the closest ramp was about 3/4 mile away, with no traffic. So one could get away with a lot more. But if you travel open highway....

Yea...it's extra maintenance on a saltwater rig. I have seen some cool homemade rinse down plumbing on a few trailers that rinsed/sprayed the brakes via attaching the garden hose to a fitting up by the tongue on the trailer. You already have the hose out flushing the motor and washing the boat...so...?

Your used to having trailer brakes, and know how to keep them already, so the $$ invested is insurance.

I have a full size Chevy 4x4, and with my little 17' bass boat behind me I can feel it every time I stop, and drive accordingly. But it would stop better with trailer brakes. I have considered adding them.

Stainless Steel Disk brakes are the only way to go...imho

https://www.amazon.com/KODIAK-Traile.../dp/B007ELSAXW

James

**V-bottom** · 10-03-2016, 06:21 AM

I have always put brakes on all my trailers that are over 2500# ( total load weight + trailer weight) if it travels on the highway. 1 of the 2 axles ( usually the front axle) should be fine as i guess you have tandem 3500# axles. It is just nice to know that you can stop fast when you have the trailer brakes set up properly if or when you have to stop quickly. You have a couple options in salt water of going with stainless steel disc brakes over the traditional steel drum brakes. Make sure you go with a decent brake controller manufacturer like Teconsha with adjustable brake settings so you can adjust the brake force depending on the weight you are towing.I prefer electric over hydraulic since there is no braking delay in the hydraulic tongue actuator and less chance of the brakes staying partially engaged.

**mjw930** · 10-03-2016, 07:03 AM

Wow, I'm somewhat shocked but pleasantly surprised at the responses so far, they track exactly with the way I'm thinking and my experience trailering. My mindset has been, while not legally required, a good set of SS disk brakes on the front axle of a lightweight tandem trailer is insurance for those "oh sh*t" moments you can never predict. I was actually shocked when I started asking around about trailers for a lightweight setup (under 3000 lbs.) and got the "you don't need them" responses from people actively towing, not just dealers trying to make a sale.

The advent of SS disk braking systems has really changed the landscape. I remember back in the late '90's my 26' Velocity trailer with dual axle drum surge brakes was a nightmare. It was almost exclusively dunked in salt and the brakes rarely lasted 2 seasons even with a brake flush kit installed. My Donzi trailer with dual axle electric over hydraulic SS disk brakes was virtually maintenance free and flushing the brakes was as easy as pointing the hose at the wheels but it was mixed use, salt and fresh water.

Thanks for all the well reasoned responses, it's helped a lot.

**mjw930** · 10-03-2016, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by V-bottom

I prefer electric over hydraulic since there is no braking delay in the hydraulic tongue actuator and less chance of the brakes staying partially engaged.

I'm right there with you but it's about an $800+ up charge over a good surge system. In talking with an OEM trailer manufacturer their take on it is with the smaller setups, say under 4000 lbs the new generation of disk brake surge systems with the electronic backing lockout work much better than the older drum setups we are all so used to. They seem to have much less of the "clunking" and long delays since the disks auto adjust. They do, however, highly recommend electric over hydraulic once you get into the heavier rigs.

By the time it's all said and done a full electric over hydraulic SS disk system is 1/3 again the price of the trailer for my application. I think I'm going to go for the one axle SS disk surge system and if over time it starts to act up I'll upgrade the actuator myself.

**NICE PAIR** · 10-03-2016, 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by mjw930

I'm right there with you but it's about an $800+ up charge over a good surge system. In talking with an OEM trailer manufacturer their take on it is with the smaller setups, say under 4000 lbs the new generation of disk brake surge systems with the electronic backing lockout work much better than the older drum setups we are all so used to. They seem to have much less of the "clunking" and long delays since the disks auto adjust. They do, however, highly recommend electric over hydraulic once you get into the heavier rigs.

By the time it's all said and done a full electric over hydraulic SS disk system is 1/3 again the price of the trailer for my application. I think I'm going to go for the one axle SS disk surge system and if over time it starts to act up I'll upgrade the actuator myself.

Just changed mine over from drums to disc/surge/front axle only,electric reverse lockout, 4000lbs ......... "Love them"

p.s. I tow with a 1/2 ton girlie truck. ;-)

**Frank Molé** · 10-03-2016, 10:05 AM

Brakes are always better....................

**JPEROG** · 10-03-2016, 10:07 AM

Mark,

The elec. over hyd. and all stainless hardware is the only way to go. The parts are about $800.00 per axle but they are the only ones that I have had work correctly and last. JMO

Joe

**euro scott** · 10-03-2016, 01:38 PM

Brakes are nice but plan on every 2-3 years in salt , replacing everything...Even flushing, I had a fresh water lake at my house and always put it in after salt and still rotted them. Make sure you get the pads that arent using metal rivets, it will spit the pad out after a couple years hopefully and not get caught in something.

**mjw930** · 10-03-2016, 01:57 PM

99% will be fresh water but regardless all those things will be taken into account. Thanks.

**Mr. Demeanor** · 10-04-2016, 10:22 PM

If you do brakes spend th extra money for Kodiak stainless steel calipers, hubs/rotors, hangers, and stainless steel backed pads. Its expensive but mine gave me years of trouble free service.

They have kits that are some sort of "corrosion resistant Dacromet and Stainless" and full stainless. GET THE FULL STAINLESS. Probably about $700.

**johnboy 88 vegas** · 10-04-2016, 11:32 PM

I come from saltwater where tb's don't last 3 years at best so I despise them on any boat trailer. Tow your boat with a truck that's actually able to stop your rig with no trailer brakes if you have any sense....there is a reason why 3/4 to 1 1/2 ton pickups are made for the average guy.

**FrenchPhil** · 10-05-2016, 11:06 AM

In Europe, some countries require, by law, the trailer to have brakes if it's rated weight is more than half of the curb weight of towing car/truck. Makes sense to me.