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  1. #16
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    Update; I pulled plugs and port side bank all three were wet and the other side dry. I went ahead and pulled all the wires and ohm tested them to which they all were close to each other so I cleaned them up and greased them up and stuck them back on. Those NGK wires must be a solid core I take it? Very low resistance and does anyone know if u have to run a solid core wire with that ignition or can I build a set of MSD wires for it? The MSD wires have quite a bit more resistance so until someone can tell me whether or not I can do that I will stick with the stock NGK's. What would be the likely cause of all three cylinders on one side have wet plugs? I have a hard time believing it would be the coils however I'm rather new to working on these 2 stroke outboards so any help will be very much appreciated. I took it out and it runs like a scalded dog up to 7500rpm and that is ripping plenty fast with the 32p wheel on it. It will pull higher rpm but I'm scared to hurt the motor, should I be? Thanks again guys I really appreciate it and if any of u ever need any kind of help when it comes to the gelcoat or structural part of a boat please feel free to hit me up as that is my profession and has been for over 30 years.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrite1 View Post
    ............. if any of u ever need any kind of help when it comes to the gelcoat or structural part of a boat please feel free to hit me up as that is my profession and has been for over 30 years.
    I might/will be sending you a pm when I get to the point of putting my core and transom back in my V-King. I'm in the middle of tearing apart and grinding right now...

    As far as your mil and it's being OK...You will likely get many opinions on this, but I am a believer in being able to monitor a/f ratios or exhaust temps in any vehicle I drive/run or ride in. There is likely no substitute for reading spark plugs and piston tops, but I like live data while the motor is running..JMO

    One bank loading up vs the other sure helps narrow things down a bit. If compression is all good bank to bank, that likely leads to electrical (3 flooding injectors IS possible, but not likely and on one bank?). Try looking at voltages out of the switch boxes, or swapping the boxes from bank to bank and see if the problem returns, and did it move to the other bank..
    Easy thing to do before actually spending $$.

    James
    Last edited by W2F a V-King; 05-16-2016 at 10:49 AM.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  5. #18
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    do u have a manual to ohm out the switchbox and stator
    as all 3 on 1 bank leans towards low spark voltage to that bank
    if stator voltage is low to switchbox
    or switchbox output is low will get wet plugs
    but still run good just not 100%
    as far as rpm these motors will stay alive for a long time below 8,000
    with good tune and fuel

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  7. #19
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    I do not have a manual and let me mention that this motor has no alternator on it. it has dual batteries that I keep charged for the most part. Its not like I ever get to spend that much time in the boat to even run the batteries down because 22 gal of fuel will last at the most an hour of running and that is being very easy on it with only 2 or3 short 100mph blasts!! I cant believe how much fuel this thing burns!! Could it be because there is no alternator ?? Thanks again I really do appreciate your time.

  8. #20
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    I just read my last post it sounds like im asking if it burns so much fuel because there is no alternator !! lol Obviously I'm talking about the wet plug problem lol

  9. #21
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    ??????????????//
    motor will have a trigger and stator and 2 switchboxes to run
    they are self sufficient like a magneto
    also what efi ties into to read
    will have a small square box with 3 terminals on it above the switchboxes
    beside the starter solenoid
    that is the rectifier that charges
    do u have this on the motor?
    show a pic of electric side
    260 has a 7 or 16 amp charging system from the ignition
    does not have an alternator like a 280 motor
    Last edited by johnmiffco; 05-16-2016 at 01:59 PM.

  10. #22
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    Here is the electrical side and if you are unable to zoom in let me know an i'll go take close up pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HST tunnel 001.jpg  

  11. #23
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    First off that is a sweet engine. I agree with the above idea of a switchbox starting to fail , being as one bank is wetter than the other. How is the smoke at idle after you finish with a run? When running a 2 stroke as rich as we do (I'm 32:1 on the promax), a lot of the oil that has coated the inside of the case runs down to the bottom of the block when it's shut off, this is why you'll see 1/8" hoses routed from the block to the intake. The engine on start up is gonna burn all that off, hence alot of smoke at the dock. Alot of my boating friends are 4 strokers and I explain to them constantly that this is normal. But definitely don't rule out a potential electrical problem in the switchbox
    1977 Hydrostream Vector 2.5 Promax

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  13. #24
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    So now you have peaked some interest here ...we need a pic of the whole rig now that we have been teased with pics of such a nice and clean mil..

    This might help the arm chair diagnosis ....

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  15. #25
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    agree with all that is a very clean motor
    yes can see the rectifier on the electrical panel
    so it does have a standard 16 amp charging system through the stator
    racing stator is only 7
    has 3 terminals on the rectifier
    2 terminals have yellow wires from stator
    1 terminal has a red power wire
    then will have a grey tach wire on also
    as stated above the switchboxes and to the left of the starter solenoid

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  17. #26
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    Definitely check the barb on the horn that the map sensor hose plugs into. You can use a cutting torch tip cleaner, brake clean and compressed air to clear it of any gummed up fuel
    Erik Kiser

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