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05-16-2016, 08:00 AM #16
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Update; I pulled plugs and port side bank all three were wet and the other side dry. I went ahead and pulled all the wires and ohm tested them to which they all were close to each other so I cleaned them up and greased them up and stuck them back on. Those NGK wires must be a solid core I take it? Very low resistance and does anyone know if u have to run a solid core wire with that ignition or can I build a set of MSD wires for it? The MSD wires have quite a bit more resistance so until someone can tell me whether or not I can do that I will stick with the stock NGK's. What would be the likely cause of all three cylinders on one side have wet plugs? I have a hard time believing it would be the coils however I'm rather new to working on these 2 stroke outboards so any help will be very much appreciated. I took it out and it runs like a scalded dog up to 7500rpm and that is ripping plenty fast with the 32p wheel on it. It will pull higher rpm but I'm scared to hurt the motor, should I be? Thanks again guys I really appreciate it and if any of u ever need any kind of help when it comes to the gelcoat or structural part of a boat please feel free to hit me up as that is my profession and has been for over 30 years.
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W2F a V-King liked this post
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05-16-2016, 10:20 AM #17
I might/will be sending you a pm when I get to the point of putting my core and transom back in my V-King. I'm in the middle of tearing apart and grinding right now...

As far as your mil and it's being OK...You will likely get many opinions on this, but I am a believer in being able to monitor a/f ratios or exhaust temps in any vehicle I drive/run or ride in. There is likely no substitute for reading spark plugs and piston tops, but I like live data while the motor is running..JMO
One bank loading up vs the other sure helps narrow things down a bit. If compression is all good bank to bank, that likely leads to electrical (3 flooding injectors IS possible, but not likely and on one bank?). Try looking at voltages out of the switch boxes, or swapping the boxes from bank to bank and see if the problem returns, and did it move to the other bank..
Easy thing to do before actually spending $$.
JamesLast edited by W2F a V-King; 05-16-2016 at 10:49 AM.
James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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05-16-2016, 10:41 AM #18
do u have a manual to ohm out the switchbox and stator
as all 3 on 1 bank leans towards low spark voltage to that bank
if stator voltage is low to switchbox
or switchbox output is low will get wet plugs
but still run good just not 100%
as far as rpm these motors will stay alive for a long time below 8,000
with good tune and fuel
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05-16-2016, 01:46 PM #19
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I do not have a manual and let me mention that this motor has no alternator on it. it has dual batteries that I keep charged for the most part. Its not like I ever get to spend that much time in the boat to even run the batteries down because 22 gal of fuel will last at the most an hour of running and that is being very easy on it with only 2 or3 short 100mph blasts!! I cant believe how much fuel this thing burns!! Could it be because there is no alternator ?? Thanks again I really do appreciate your time.
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05-16-2016, 01:50 PM #20
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I just read my last post it sounds like im asking if it burns so much fuel because there is no alternator !! lol Obviously I'm talking about the wet plug problem lol
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05-16-2016, 01:54 PM #21
??????????????//
motor will have a trigger and stator and 2 switchboxes to run
they are self sufficient like a magneto
also what efi ties into to read
will have a small square box with 3 terminals on it above the switchboxes
beside the starter solenoid
that is the rectifier that charges
do u have this on the motor?
show a pic of electric side
260 has a 7 or 16 amp charging system from the ignition
does not have an alternator like a 280 motorLast edited by johnmiffco; 05-16-2016 at 01:59 PM.
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05-17-2016, 06:38 AM #22
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Here is the electrical side and if you are unable to zoom in let me know an i'll go take close up pics
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05-17-2016, 08:05 AM #23
First off that is a sweet engine. I agree with the above idea of a switchbox starting to fail , being as one bank is wetter than the other. How is the smoke at idle after you finish with a run? When running a 2 stroke as rich as we do (I'm 32:1 on the promax), a lot of the oil that has coated the inside of the case runs down to the bottom of the block when it's shut off, this is why you'll see 1/8" hoses routed from the block to the intake. The engine on start up is gonna burn all that off, hence alot of smoke at the dock. Alot of my boating friends are 4 strokers and I explain to them constantly that this is normal. But definitely don't rule out a potential electrical problem in the switchbox
1977 Hydrostream Vector 2.5 Promax
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05-17-2016, 10:00 AM #24
So now you have peaked some interest here
...we need a pic of the whole rig now that we have been teased with pics of such a nice and clean mil..
This might help the arm chair diagnosis ....
JamesJames H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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05-17-2016, 10:35 AM #25
agree with all that is a very clean motor
yes can see the rectifier on the electrical panel
so it does have a standard 16 amp charging system through the stator
racing stator is only 7
has 3 terminals on the rectifier
2 terminals have yellow wires from stator
1 terminal has a red power wire
then will have a grey tach wire on also
as stated above the switchboxes and to the left of the starter solenoid
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05-18-2016, 05:29 AM #26
Screaming And Flying!
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Definitely check the barb on the horn that the map sensor hose plugs into. You can use a cutting torch tip cleaner, brake clean and compressed air to clear it of any gummed up fuel
Erik Kiser
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