FrankenRude Three Dot Oh

**phantomuk** · 07-30-2013, 12:43 PM

as you do so many mod jobs do you have some stock parts surplus? i need an upper drive shaft and shift rod to fit a 20" mid 200ho etec ( 3.3) if you have any spares and would like to sell them please let me know
Paul

**SPANNA** · 07-31-2013, 04:49 AM

lov this thread dumb question why machine 3.3 pistons to flat top what is the advantage cheers

**Instigator** · 07-31-2013, 06:27 AM

Originally Posted by SPANNA

lov this thread dumb question why machine 3.3 pistons to flat top what is the advantage cheers

The 3.3 is a direct injected motor and has a combustion chamber in the piston dome like a diesel does. Since they never made a carbureted 3.3 we have no choice but to be creative w/our projects.

Phantom, sorry can't help you. I already off loaded too many of my spares. Plus down here in fische bote heaven it's near impossible to find 20" motors.

**Instigator** · 08-18-2013, 06:07 AM

Wiseo's and front 1/2 are in for surgery. I finished the block, re-installed the sleeves (sold on the grill method BTW) and dropped it off to be line bored and decked.

Intakes are done and Boyesens are installed.

Modified the big bore carbs yesterday and will reassemble them today.

Almost time to dig through the junk box to see if I can scare up enough non-Yamaha igntion funk to make it run ; )

BTW, got a message from a friend asking whether to use an E-Tec or Ficht for a similar carb'd prject. Blocks are the same but the Ficht has the carb style intake and front 1/2. The E-Tec front 1/2 is totally different and would take fab work to build your own intake for carbs.

**powerabout** · 08-18-2013, 03:19 PM

Hi Gary
any secrets to the line bore do you mill the decks to get them equal to the tunnel and then re bore the tunnel to ensure parallel to the deck that is at right angles to the bores?
Does that mean boring with the halves together?
What about the bores pointing at the crank, did OMC ever get them that wrong?
Thanks

**davemvegas** · 08-18-2013, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by powerabout

Hi Gary
any secrets to the line bore do you mill the decks to get them equal to the tunnel and then re bore the tunnel to ensure parallel to the deck that is at right angles to the bores?
Does that mean boring with the halves together?
What about the bores pointing at the crank, did OMC ever get them that wrong?
Thanks

i am not a motor builder. but my take is. if the crank is spinning in a stright line bored block. i really dont think the crank would care if the top of the deck is parallel or not. the only thing that squaring a block could actualy mean. is that all pistons will be the same distance to deck. if you set deck height to zero. all pistons will be flush when that cyl is at tdc. if setup .010 in the hole all will be .010 down from deck at tdc. squaring the deck is how you get all cyls to have the same compression ratio. but i think the crank spinning on a round bearing. and piston floating on a round wrist pin. would be unfazed if the deck was not square.

**baja200merk** · 08-18-2013, 09:48 PM

unless you want to start talking about 1 bank's intake flow having to fight the crank's rotation

**davemvegas** · 08-18-2013, 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by baja200merk

unless you want to start talking about 1 bank's intake flow having to fight the crank's rotation

no wonder my boats are so dang slow. i knew i was doing something wrong.

**powerabout** · 08-18-2013, 10:27 PM

inline 3's forever

**baja200merk** · 08-18-2013, 10:40 PM

Like my truck, six-in-a-row makes it GO

**R.grover** · 08-19-2013, 05:05 AM

hows the project coming along?

**Instigator** · 08-19-2013, 05:09 AM

Originally Posted by powerabout

Hi Gary
any secrets to the line bore do you mill the decks to get them equal to the tunnel and then re bore the tunnel to ensure parallel to the deck that is at right angles to the bores?
Does that mean boring with the halves together?
What about the bores pointing at the crank, did OMC ever get them that wrong?
Thanks

My machinist centers his machine up from the center line of the crank where most just center from the bore itself. This corrects the poor OEM machining to align the bores to being perpendicular to the crank which of course reduces friction.

I mainly deck the block to assure proper head gasket sealing. On this one, I may be doing that to adjust the squish band as well. I mocked it up once already w/a cut/old piston and changed my #'s for the pistons I just gave my machinist (different one) to cut so we'll see how close I am.