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  1. #1
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    Merc ID + Help pls!!!

    I just picked up my new boat today from the port. Its an 81 V-king with a V6 merc. Can anyone help me ID the engine the guy said it is a 2.4 Bp but I want to check it is as I'm not sure that it actually is a bridgeport. The serial # is, 5716995 and it has WH 15 carbs if this helps.

    Also as this is my first V6 can someone talk me through going over the engine to make sure everything is in order before I run it. There seems to be a number of cooling mods done how can I check what else has been done without a full teardown. I''ll post some pics tomorrow of the cooling system it doesn't look like anything I've seen people do. It looks like it bleeds most of the water off before the Tstats. It's dark out so will have to wait and have a better look tomorrow.
    Is there any way to check if the heads have been cut?

    Thanx, Alan...


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  2. #2
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    Thumbs up 1980

    the engine is a 1980, 225 merc. standard production. later Larry D

  3. #3
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    Was it running before it was sold? If not, pull the carbs apart, clean them, flip the carb gaskets upside down to get a new mating surface, reassemble and bolt them back on. Grab the flywheel and see if it turns over by hand. If it does, do a compression check. If it doesnt, pull the heads off. You can't tell for sure if the heads have been cut by looking a them. As long as the compression is reasonably even and is not over 145 psi, you dont need to worry with that. If all checks out, make sure it has fresh gas and oil, put a flush kit on and fire it up. Make sure water is pumping. If not shut it off and check the impeller and the cooling system. Then report back here on what happened. Thats all I can think of for now. Good luck.

  4. #4
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    Glad to hear you got it shipped OK. Hope everything works out.
    Later Matt

  5. #5
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    There is an article on dry stacking, take a look at it see if its what you got. The water is dumped out the bottom sides.

    If you take the heads off take a look at the cylinder walls for scuffs or damage and at the pistons.

    There should be 2 rubber hoses in the lower cylinder passages. its normal and is used to slow the water for better cooling here.

    If you don't have a manual merc ships them pretty quick.

    http://www.screamandfly.com/home/engine_tech.htm

    Change the water pump for cheap insurance.
    Last edited by Techno; 02-07-2004 at 09:17 AM.
    '90 STV
    '96 260
    under construction

    for far too long

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up Cooling

    Thanks guys, cleaned carbs, engine turns over by hand ok but need to get a new battery before I can start it. It also needs a good clean and I might replace the heads and bolts too, they're a bit rusty.
    I had a look at the cooling again, the port head t-stat is run down out of the bottom of the cowl and is T'd into the adapter plate with a smaller hose. The starboard head T-stat is run straight down and out the cowl. This doesn't seem right from what I have seen or read, any suggestions?

    Also I can't find any mod. or ser. #'s on the powerhead anywhere, where are they usually located?

    Here's a pic of the port side...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails copy of portstat.jpg  


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  7. #7
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    Cooling

    The above pic shows the port side T-stat and the tube off that is terminated.

    This pic is of the adapter plate and the tube T'd into the thermostat dump.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails copy of lwrt.jpg  


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  8. #8
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    Last pic

    This is a pic of the Starboard side thermostat, this just dumps straight out the bottom of the cowl?

    Can anyone recognise what has been done here, is this ok or should I change it? Can anyone suggest what to do to rectify, I have read the Jay Smith and the Greg Moss articles, should I pull the power head and do this or revert back to stock cooling, if thats still posible?

    Many thanks, Alan...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails copy of sbstat.jpg  


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  9. #9
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    It's always a good idea to put a fresh waterpump impeller in the lower unit on any used engine that you're not real familiar with the history of, and also to drain the gear oil, looking for water and replace it with fresh oil, preferably the Merc high perf gear oil if you can get it in Ireland.

    Based on the way the hoses are run in the pictures, I'd go through the cooling system too and either put it back more toward stock or route it to conventional standards.
    Membership upgrade options: http://www.screamandfly.com/payments.php

  10. #10
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    Techno, Can you discribe those two hoses better. Are they pushed inbetween the cylinder wall and the block?? If they are missing will it cause cooling problems??

    I've seen this done on OMC's does Merc do this also???

    Thanks

  11. #11
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    Thumbs up Thanks Raceman

    Thanks man, you don't happen to have a cooling system diagram for a merc 2.4 225 by any chance. I need to get a manual. I don't know if the adapter plate has been modified but I'll try and check if the exhaust dump holes have been filled. I hope so, today was absolutely beautifull, I have to test this boat soon

    Alan...


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  12. #12
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    Started today

    Originally posted by O/B Dude
    Was it running before it was sold? If not, pull the carbs apart, clean them, flip the carb gaskets upside down to get a new mating surface, reassemble and bolt them back on. Grab the flywheel and see if it turns over by hand. If it does, do a compression check. If it doesnt, pull the heads off. You can't tell for sure if the heads have been cut by looking a them. As long as the compression is reasonably even and is not over 145 psi, you dont need to worry with that. If all checks out, make sure it has fresh gas and oil, put a flush kit on and fire it up. Make sure water is pumping. If not shut it off and check the impeller and the cooling system. Then report back here on what happened. Thats all I can think of for now. Good luck.

    Sorry for taking so long to get back, I've been in France for the past week. Well I ran a hose out today and started the engine. It started first go so that can't be bad! I need to get a new compression tester so I have no comp readings yet. It seems to be idling a bit high but I think that could be the hot foot not returning all the way.

    My first question is what should I set the idle timing at and what/how should I set WOT timing.
    Also when I fired it up there was a good bit of fire coming out the exhaust when I revved it up a bit, just momentarily as I gave it throttle then it stopped. Is this normal or is this a sign of something bad? The engine was laid up so I'm hoping it's just burning off the oil in the cyl's.
    I don't know if the can is in or out or if it has been drystacked. Should I find these things out or does it matter?
    I am mixing the fuel/oil at 32: 1, is this OK?

    I am going to change the impeller and the LU oil, apart from that is there anything else anyone can think of before taking the boat out.

    Also can anyone tell me if there is a ser # on the powerhead anywhere, all I can find is the frost cap looking piece that usualy has a # on it but it just has an M and an X on it???

    Thanks to everyone, alan
    Last edited by Alan Power; 02-27-2004 at 04:21 PM.


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

  13. #13
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    Exclamation under linkage

    Look where the block spits under the linkage at the top.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jy20-016.jpg  
    18' Seebold 2.4 merc bridgeport

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