1987 Hydrostream Valero YT Project

[VkingMike]

Mines has a layer of 1708 covering the entire bottom, then stringers with knees directly on top of that. Then core in between and against the stringers everywhere else, with more 1708 over everything. I never liked the idea of the stringers not attached directly to the hull.

[LakeFever]

I ended up with 3 layers of 1708 under the core. I laid two because the existing glass was crap and paper thin and there were three large holes in it. Then when I flipped it over to do the gel I was so concerned about the factory glass I cut it down, laid one more 1708 stern to bow with a layer of csm over the whole thing as well. Top of core I have two full lays of 1708, then the stringers with double tabbing and double Capping so in the pad area I have 4 full lays of 1708 over the core. The transom has 9 lays of 1708/1808 blend. Worked out to a little more than 3/8” thick per side. Then the knees etc etc. I laid so much glass in my hull I went way overkill. I don’t regret doing this. When operating the boat it is so stiff and so solid and really confidence inspiring so that’s great right? I can say this much now that I’ve got a couple years on it. I could have cut the lays back by at least 30% if not 50% and I doubt the hull would be any less safe or durable. I run the thing hard and sometimes I have been caught on in crazy conditions. 2-4’ one time. The boat was airborne over every wave regardless of speed and I had to keep some speed up to maintain attitude or risk a stuff. The thing came through like a champ. 694lbs hull only weight.

That all aside I do dream of building another that is far more purpose built for speed where weight will be a much greater consideration. One that I wouldn’t dare take out in anything other than ideal conditions. To this end I’m reasonably confident I could get the hull below 500 lbs, maybe even less.

The reason I tell these tales is build the boat for your goals and understand the limitations of each path. Personally I’d rather have stronger and heavier than weaker and lighter. My 694lb runs 90 all day every day occasionally over 90 when the conditions are right.

back on the structure I did lay the stringers on top of the core for three reasons, the biggest one because it’s wayyyyy easier to do. The second and maybe more worrisome reason is the cores are what rot and fail over time in these. The five streams I have owned did not have very well glassed in sealed up tight cores. So my thinking was by having continuous glass encasing the entire core before the stringers go in I could protect it optimally. The third reason is I have enough 1708 on the hull alone to probably do the job. I did some tests on adhesion strength and with two lays of 1708, then bonding down some wood material on top the wood would split apart before the bond ever did. Plus if the core rots it’s not like stringers bonded to the hull make it any safer to run. Anyways I did wrestle with that thought a while and those are most of the reasons why I went stringer over core. I don’t consider it superior it is against the factory spec but it’s what I did.

I’d focus on your goals with the boat. The longevity you want out of it. Then tailor your layup to suit that outcome. Even a quick crappy job is probably going to be good for ten years. By the looks of your workmanship so far you do fine quality work so I’m sure it will turn out wayyyyy better than factory and those lasted 20-30 years lol. Fun thread. I’m kinda jealous I really enjoyed laying mine up

[skialot2]

Grinding, grinding, grinding... more grinding. Giant mess. Got in another couple hours today. Slow going. I think I need a courser flap disc.

[VkingMike]

60's and caution not to grind too deep

[LakeFever]

I preferred using a 3m da. It was almost as quick and gave me a lot better control. I realized ideally you want as flat of a surface as you can get or it can be hard to lay glass without little bubble forming in the valleys. I also really, really preferred working with vinylester over poly. Way better bond and a hell of a lot less grinding

[skialot2]

I got in a couple more hours of grinding today. Switched to an 80 grit flap disc. Didn't make much of a difference. Still slow going. I did the starboard side core area. I still have to do the middle pad area all the way to the nose. It's going to be fun doing under the bow. Full coverall and full mask respirator. Plus I think I am going to reverse the vacuum so it's a blower and pump cleaner air up into the very nose. Hopefully, that will help push some of the dust out of the bow so I can see better. I am still grinding down all the cut off tabbing and the remnants of the netting from the old balsa core so a DA sander is not going to work yet. But I will switch to a DA for another final sand before laying down some resin. LakeFever, if I remember correctly from your build thread, this is the still part you missed. Didn't you get yours with the core already removed and the rough grinding already done? At least most of it? Lucky you because this part sucks! I thought removing the core was bad. It was hard, but this is worse. So much dust. Gets everywhere. Clogs the vacuum up easily and often. But anyway, thanks for the advise and encouraging compliment. I try not to do things half ass. From looking at your build threads, you do some nice work yourself. If mine come out half as good as your I will be happy.


Attachment 546023

[LakeFever]

Thank you for the kind words your on a fine path to succeed imo. Yes mine came stripped and cap separated. Got lucky finding it in that condition. One thought about the vacuum is to use bags in the vacuum. My shop vac would plug in minutes rendering it useless. I bought those paper bags at Home Depot for shop vac use and then it worked great. Only problem I had was a couple Times I over filled the bag and it made it very hard to get out so the bag tore and I had a big mess to clean up. So change when the thing gets heavy’ish is best

[skialot2]

Thanks, I will look into those bags.

[Onetime]

Never knew about those shop vacuum bags when I did mine. Wouldn’t have had to throw out a shop vacuum. Fiberglass grindings are hazardous to vacuums and grinders.

[skialot2]

I did the center pad area today. I still need to do under the bow and the transom. Found the delaminated area. It's not very big. Probably less than 1/2 a sq ft. That is the only telltale that this thing needed a core. Everything else was solid. The white area in next to the holes is some delamination on the outside. I will leave that for now. It will basically be a mold for the new fiberglass on the inside. When I flip it over I will grind that out from the outside and fix it properly. Those vacuum bags work great! Thanks Lake! a good rinse works better, But at least you can get the bulk with the vacuum.

[skialot2]

I ground off the rough fiberglass under the bow. What a nightmare. Aggravated my shoulder pretty bad again. It tried to pop out of the socket 3 or 4 times while grinding under there. Really hurting now while sitting here typing with one finger instead of two. But besides that, i used a full coverall and full face respirator. Used the shop vac as a blower. Left the vacuum outside the boat on the ground and stuffed the hose up under the deck close to the bow. That worked great. Pumped clean air up to the tip of the bow. That really helped clean the dust out of the air so I could see what I was doing. The biggest problem is the full respirator mask has like a static cling attraction to the fiberglass dust. Made a layer of dust on the mask that was really hard to wipe off. When you try to wipe it off, with so much dust around it clings right back on. I had to take the vacuum hose and point it at the mask while wiping it to blow the dust away. I would still only be able to see for a minute before doing it again. I am sure I missed some spots but its just a rough sand anyway. Vacuuming the dust only works so well so I washed it out again. I will be re sanding with a DA before laying any glass. I will get whatever I missed then.

[VkingMike]

Looking good!

[skialot2]

Between my Anniversary cruise, a bunch of rainy days and Thanksgiving I have not got anything done on this all month. I was able to pick up a 24 gallon gas tank I think I can make fit. Maybe. The transom knees I am going to add may get in the way. And I will probably have to push the back seat forward a few inches to make room. Now it has gotten cold out. It's in the low 40's. Burr!!! LOL I know it's not cold for some of you guys. Long Island is not known for it's cold. But it is too cold out for fiberglass work. So I bought another portable carport for $220. I have a couple heaters I can use in it. I should be able to warm it up enough to get some work done on the not so cold days. I still have to put the sides on it but it sure looks big enough.

[LakeFever]

I run a similar size and shape tank. I moved the knees to the sides of it so they terminate on top of the floor over the first chine. I also kept the splashwell and beefed up underneath it with 1808. Then tied it all in together to the cap stringers and the floor. Worked good

[skialot2]

I will be putting a crossbar across the transom. Probably a 2 pieces of 3/4 ply laminated together. Glassed to the transom and the splashwell. Just like in my checkmate. Then a set of knees at the outside of the transom on top of the first chine like you did. Then I will also put the stringers where the hold down bracket would go on the tank. I will make two more knees shaped with a notch so I could slide the tank back into place and have it lock into the knees. The stringers would end up just outside the pad. Just a couple inches inside of where the original stringers were. That will be way overkill on strength. Besides removing the floor, I have not removed any support from the transom at all. The biggest problem is the vent. It may end up right under the gunwale if I cant get the tank back far enough. But the filler neck is in just about the perfect spot.

I finished putting up my new boatport. It will work. But the one my Checkmate lives in is nicer.