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  1. #16
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    I use the motor battery for 12v on wheel. Do 24v with lipos on its own solenoid from timer.. They handle the amps. Most RC stuff is atleast 100 amps today..
    Quote Originally Posted by scott reierson View Post
    Tcatrett: What a great idea. I wouldn't have thought those things could take the amp load of the trim motor. Im sure the 24V capacity helps a bunch.

    If you run a timer, do you use the start battery with a relay setup?, or do you run the whole trim system on the lipo's with an independent arming switch protected with a fuse or breaker to fire it up?

    If I am gong to deep on your teams competitive strategy's please let me know and I'll shut up.

    CI, Love that Bottle warmer thanks for posting that. I haven't run Nitrous for a long time. I remember keeping my bottles warm in spring or fall if I was going to spray. I remember having several bottles on hand full and warm if I planned to lake run all day and show off.

  2. #17
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    Reviving this 5 year old thread because I’m thinking of switching over from an Optima blue top (38.5 lbs) to an Antigravity, and wanted to see whether anyone on here can help me figure out what to do.

    I would like to run the ATX-30HD, which puts out 970 amps, but I can only source that from overseas, and since it can’t ship via air freight, I’d have to ship it overland to Miami and then via boat to cayman, which would likely take a couple of weeks.

    We have a local outfit that has a limited stock of Antigravity batteries, and the only one that I’m thinking may be useful is the ATX-20 (with restart) which only has 670 amps.

    I’m wondering whether the ATX-20 with 670 amps would be enough for me.
    I’m running a race boat so the only electrical drain on the battery after starting would be the trim motor, which would only be for a couple of seconds at the start of a run, the fuel pump and the nitrous system.

    Anyone out there got any experience with the ATX-20?

    Here’s the link with specs:

    https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-oem/atx20-rs/

    TIA

  3. #18
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    The ATX-20 says it will start 2.2L bikes... or 700hp race car's?

  4. #19
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    I have3 rigs,2 p/max,1 2.4 all efi. they all run WIEZE lipos, 2.5lbs 550ca. a little smaller than a kleenx box. they have BMS. 2 of my motors have 16a,1 uses 40. ill never go back to a 35lb anchor again.power trim one i have 3 yrs, a powerhouse cranks my 150psi 225 no problem. trim up/down no problem. no special wiring. less than 150$.

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  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by David - WI View Post
    The ATX-20 says it will start 2.2L bikes... or 700hp race car's?
    I saw that. Should be strong enough to crank my ~195psi Drag motor then, I suppose?
    Then again, cranking a 700hp turbo 4-cylinder would be a bit different from cranking a 700hp 15:1 SBC V8…

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  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    I saw that. Should be strong enough to crank my ~195psi Drag motor then, I suppose?
    Then again, cranking a 700hp turbo 4-cylinder would be a bit different from cranking a 700hp 15:1 SBC V8…
    They do warn against using their "Re-Start" batteries (ATX-20) in high compression bikes:

    Please Note: For Custom V-Twin applications with Motor sizes over 103 Cubic Inches, and when a higher compression, or modified motor is being used we do not recommend the RE-START version of our Batteries due to the extremely high current draw of these Larger V-Twin Motors. Please use the following models for Large V-Twin Applications: YTX20, YTX12-24, YTX12-20, or V-10.
    Their sales info is certainly confusing!

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  10. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David - WI View Post
    They do warn against using their "Re-Start" batteries (ATX-20) in high compression bikes:


    Their sales info is certainly confusing!
    I agree. That’s why I would prefer the ATX30-HD, which doesn’t have restart, but cranks out 990amps.

  11. #23
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    I have 2 of the ATX30HD. One on my 150 Merc 4 stroke. Works great with it because it has a alternator. Stays at 14.2v all day.
    One in my race boat with 2.5 drag electrics. It does not keep it charged. I read where a mosfet regulator may help? They need a steady 13.8-14.2 to stay charged.

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  13. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    I agree. That’s why I would prefer the ATX30-HD, which doesn’t have restart, but cranks out 990amps.
    It looks like Amazon could get you one (to Florida?) by Wednesday... https://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-B.../dp/B07WF972X1

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  15. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tcatrett View Post
    I have 2 of the ATX30HD. One on my 150 Merc 4 stroke. Works great with it because it has a alternator. Stays at 14.2v all day.
    One in my race boat with 2.5 drag electrics. It does not keep it charged. I read where a mosfet regulator may help? They need a steady 13.8-14.2 to stay charged.
    Thanks man. That’s very useful information.
    On your drag setup, how long does it last before you have to charge it?
    My boat is set up for drag racing only, so it won’t see a lot of idling or cruising.
    Once it starts, the only electrical drain would be :
    -ECM/injectors,
    -Trim pump (just at the start, and most times I just set the trim and launch),
    - Trim Timer (I rarely use it since the STV launches onto plane easily with the trim set)
    - AiM MXL2 Datalogger dash (they draw very little current, iirc),
    - Nitrous Window switch (again, low draw)
    - Nitrous and Fuel solenoids (11 amp and 5 amp draw, respectively).

    So, I’m not sure how much reserve power I would need if the 170amp stator can’t keep up with that load.
    Right now I’m running an Optima Blue top (800CA) and that stays charged when I’m overboard, and I keep a trickle charger on it.
    Would love to lose ~30lbs with a battery change though. That’s much easier than a diet, lol!

  16. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by David - WI View Post
    It looks like Amazon could get you one (to Florida?) by Wednesday... https://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-B.../dp/B07WF972X1
    Thanks. I’m looking at this one, which is a fraction of the price and has a higher CA rating, but a little less Ah rating than the ATX30-HD:

    https://www.amazon.com/YTX30L-BS-Lit...p?ie=UTF8&th=1

  17. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    Thanks. I’m looking at this one, which is a fraction of the price and has a higher CA rating, but a little less Ah rating than the ATX30-HD:

    https://www.amazon.com/YTX30L-BS-Lit...p?ie=UTF8&th=1
    Ok.
    I don't think the CA ratings for lithium batteries are "real" or standardized to match lead-acid CA ratings... they are somebody's idea of "equivalent cranking power. Some are 1000 amps for 1/10 second and then 1 amp?
    The one you linked is an 18 amp-hour battery versus 30 amp-hour(?) for the Antigravity... so just over half the actual output (I think?) explains why it's cheaper?

    https://www.power-sonic.com/lithium-cranking-amps/
    Last edited by David - WI; 10-21-2025 at 04:31 PM.

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  19. #28
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    I am on year 3 of my Antigravity ATX30 RS in my 24 Tuff. I chill and listen to music on the sand bar for hours with no problems. Starts and charges great with my 300XS. 5.75lbs, I put them in all my cars and little boats now. I ran one in my 14:1 compression Z06 and it started awesome!
    TJ @ Baker Engineering
    Tuff 24 300xs
    Tuff 16 90 Yammie
    3.75@199mph with LSX power!!!

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