Azimuth Check - Giving Life to an OB that has sat for 10+ years - Steps?

**Stoker1** · 06-06-2025, 06:33 PM

So I picked up a 1977 Johnson 35hp Model 35R77C thats pretty much a barn find around these parts and has sat for 10+ years. Pulled the plugs while there and they were typical two stroke color. Turned the flywheel one full turn and everything moved freely. Even has the original aluminum prop thats chunked, but there. Goal now is to get it running and on my skiff.

My plan after getting it cleaned up:

Pull plugs and soak each hole with CRC-656 and then squirt some Marvels in and let it soak a bit before turning it over
New water pump and carb rebuild kit
Drain and replace gear oil
Replace any fuel lines on the engine from the pump to the carb, etc.
Source out a decent prop in either aluminum or stainless once I get the #'s off the one thats on it

Parts Source? -- Crowley Marine, others?
Don't skimp buying cheap parts, only OEM

Am I headed in the right direction? Feedback is appreciated.

**oldschoolnc** · 06-06-2025, 07:12 PM

Good motor. Compression check, scope or pull the head to check for rust. Thermostat, maybe go ahead a replace the pull start rope, just in case. Keep an eye on the gear oil, in case the seals have hardened up.
Otherwise IMO you got it... Enjoy.

marineengine.com has most oem parts

**Stoker1** · 06-06-2025, 07:36 PM

Thanks bud. I don't have a compression gauge but see that Amazon has some for $17 with good reviews.
If you don't mind my asking, what are good #'s for it? I've been a member here for a while and know that a leakdown is more accurate, but I'm not going that far.

**oldschoolnc** · 06-06-2025, 07:49 PM

I had a 35 on a 13 whaler in 80', I was 15. I ran the piss out of that thing. Ran good until I sold it in 05.
Anyway, others may chime in. It's more about the numbers being within 10% or less of each other. Probably be around 70 cranking psi. I could be off...
Google it. lol (my bad 100+ cranking compression)
See ya.

**skialot2** · 06-06-2025, 09:45 PM

Don't spend money right away. You already spun it by hand after 10 years so it was probably stored properly. No need to soak anything. I would just pull the plugs. Spray some gas oil mix in the cylinders and in the carburetor. Spin it a few more times to get everything lubed. Put the plugs back in. Connect the fuel tank and pump fuel into the float bowl(s). If they don't overflow, put it on a hose and fire it up. If it was stored even half ass properly, it will start rite up. Watch your temperature because the water pump is probably junk. If it runs good, then go ahead and put a new water pump. New fuel lines and filter, etc. If it doesn't run good, Buy or borrow a compression gauge and do a compression check before anything else. That is what I would do. I start up long dormant motors all the time.

**oldschoolnc** · 06-06-2025, 10:13 PM

I've seen impellers fall apart and send pieces up into the motor water passages when starting a motor that had been sitting for years.
Have a good one.

**Stoker1** · 06-08-2025, 02:44 PM

Well sh*t. Got it cleaned up yesterday and sprayed the holes good with CRC. Today I go out to mess around with it and it will only turn just over 3/4 of a flywheel rotation and then it bangs to a stop. Turn it back the other direction and it bangs to a stop again. *turning the flywheel by hand*. --- have video if needed.

I can see the pistons moving. Its out of gear. Don't see any holes in the block from damage.

What in the hell have I gotten myself into

**oldschoolnc** · 06-08-2025, 03:00 PM

Sounds ugly... Turned all the way around the other day? Remove the recoil starter mechanism, check under flywheel, still could be in the lower. Hope for one of the above...