Bleeding hydraulic steering

[skialot2]

I have been trying to get all the air out of my hydraulic steering. I have bled several quarts through the system. But there always seemed to be play in the system. The bleeder screws have Orings, so they don't leak from the threads when they are loose. So, I took a piece of tubing and connected both bleed screws together. Purged as much of the air out of the tube as I could. Then opened both bleed screws at the same time. Filled the helm with the fill kit. Then continuously turned the wheel in one direction. Every once in a while, I could see bubbles go through the tube. I continued turning at least 10 rotations after bubbles stopped coming out of the helm. Then I started turning the other direction and more bubbles went through the tube. I kept turning until the bubbles came out the helm. Plus 10 extra rotations. I repeated this process twice more until no more bubbles came out of anywhere. My steering is now finally tight.

[4Speed]

I have the Bubble Purge and it works great.
The key is turning the wheel/ helm rapidly.

www.outboardst.com

[Aaronhl]

I mean it doesnt seem like you followed the Seastar instructions because youre not suppose to open both bleeders screws at the same, not connect both together like ive seen some people do

It is a two person job because one person needs to turn the wheel and hold the fresh fluid when the other is at the engine opening the bleeder screw and holding the ob at one side while the other person continues to turn the wheel.

I was able to rig up a bleeding setup the last time i did one so i could do it myself, where i "hung" the fresh fluid and ran two clear, individual lines from the ram back to the fresh fluid to drop back in

[OnPad]

I do like skialot did his. Works great.
A harbor freight brake bleeder bottle screws right into the helm.

[LakeFever]

This method is easy as heck and works great. My little trick is after I bleed it fully I leave the entire rig set up over night. Then first thing before touching the wheel crack the bleeders one at a time and turn the wheel. Doing this releases a couple micro bubbles. I cannot turn my steering past lock with the wheel no matter how hard I try and turn it. It bleeds out completely air free with this method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=pix1t7ROQ6U

[OnPad]

I will add a couple little details for someone that might want to bleed the way Skialot described. I would recommend safety wire, hose clamps, or quick connectors at the hose from bleeder to bleeder, or you're likely going to have a mess, and have to start over.
I also squeeze a little vacuum in the hf bottle before I screw it into the helm. That bottle isn't necessary, but adds some extra reservoir, and gets the air farther away from the pump. It's also a good visual reference for air bubbles, and fluid level.

[skialot2]

I will add a couple little details for someone that might want to bleed the way Skialot described. I would recommend safety wire, hose clamps, or quick connectors at the hose from bleeder to bleeder, or you're likely going to have a mess, and have to start over.
I also squeeze a little vacuum in the hf bottle before I screw it into the helm. That bottle isn't necessary, but adds some extra reservoir, and gets the air farther away from the pump. It's also a good visual reference for air bubbles, and fluid level.

I hang the bottle upside down over the helm the entire time I bleed it. You can watch the bubbles come out of the helm and go up the tube into the bottle. When all bubbles stop after around 15 turns in each direction, it should be good. Yes, you definitely have to use hose clams on the hose connections. They will blow right off

[skialot2]

This method is easy as heck and works great. My little trick is after I bleed it fully I leave the entire rig set up over night. Then first thing before touching the wheel crack the bleeders one at a time and turn the wheel. Doing this releases a couple micro bubbles. I cannot turn my steering past lock with the wheel no matter how hard I try and turn it. It bleeds out completely air free with this method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=pix1t7ROQ6U

I used pretty much this exact method on the first bleed when I installed the system. But sure is a lot easier to just connect a hose bleeder to bleeder Then just a 6 inch hose from helm to bottle hung from the windshield with mechanics wire.

[LakeFever]

I used pretty much this exact method on the first bleed when I installed the system. But sure is a lot easier to just connect a hose bleeder to bleeder Then just a 6 inch hose from helm to bottle hung from the windshield with mechanics wire.

I tried similar at first too but I could still turn the wheel past lock which freaked me out. With the elevated method and the hoses from the bleeders also submersed in the fluid there is zero chance for air to enter the system and it’s extremely easy to see even the tiniest bubbles coming up the hoses. Ultimately if you had success with your method all this is moot. If it’s bled it’s bled your good to go

[4Speed]

With the Bubble Purge there are no open containers or pin holes in the fluid bottle. Its all metal quick connects and almost impossible to spill hydraulic fluid. I went with the BP system as I have to do everything by my self and didn't want hydraulic oil on my STV interior or carpet. Like LakeFever said another key is to let it sit overnight, I generally while sitting crank my trailer wheel down all the way and set the boat at a angle with the bow being higher to help the bubbles travel to the helm so I can get rid of the air after the "sit" and add more fluid if necessary. Another trick is when you change the end seals, make sure you position the motor correctly (all the way to port or starboard) so the seal you are changing has the least amount of fluid behind it, this approach you only loose a few ounces of fluid. I also understand seastar fluid isn't cheap but I NEVER reuse any regardless of how clean I think the secondary containers are.