1979 Viking build

[Jmr1974]

Lakefever, what brand of paint did you use on the bottom of your boat over the duratec primer? I’m still kicking around between paint and gel. Duratech makes a clear additive you add to the gel that if I understand correctly requires no sanding or buffing once it’s applied. In regards to the paint on your bottom did you have to buff it to get it that shiny or add clear coat? I’m going with a solid gray color on the entire boat except for the running surface, in other words I want all the gray to match top, sides and bottom. If I gel the bottom and paint the top I’m not sure it will match as good as just paint everything. I know you have a lot of experience in painting I don’t and I especially have no experience with gel. When I get done with the boat I don’t want to have to buff it to keep the shine, I just want to get in it and enjoy it.

[LakeFever]

I used a polyurethane paint called Endura which is basically the same stuff as awlgrip or imron. It’s not rated for below the water line but none of this stuff is although many of us use it. I was told not to leave it in the water longer than a week but I won’t be leaving my boat in the water over night let alone a week so no biggie here. That said, we sprayed a StarCraft aluminum boat with imron over thirty years ago and it’s still holding up perfectly fine and it sits in the water for the entire season every year. Plus as you said, it’s a spray and go system it’s much faster. It seems hard as heck I can’t scratch it with my fingernail. I used a 1.4 tip and fairly high pressure to spray it. I think I would thin it down even more and use a 1.2 tip if I was to shoot it again to get the flattest, smoothest finish possible.

Gel coat is a major pita to spray I had numerous struggles with it as I mentioned in this build. It must be cut and buffed and it’s a lot of work. There is the high gloss additive but again it’s not rated for below the water line. I was concerned about osmosis or gel chalking issue with it on the hull so I shied away from it because gel does take a lot of maintenance over time to stay looking good plus I have had gel become pin hole swollen before. Osmosis or whatever. My supplier said gel is porous and really only works great in a mould when the gel is mushed against the surface forcing a smooth bond between the large gel nodules. He said when it’s sprayed this benefit doesn’t happen and the gel nodules remain open which makes it easier and more likely to take on water damage over time. I don’t have any clue, that’s just what he told me and it sounded reasonable. With the duratec underneath it’s good to go anyways

[Jmr1974]

I used a polyurethane paint called Endura which is basically the same stuff as awlgrip or imron. It’s not rated for below the water line but none of this stuff is although many of us use it. I was told not to leave it in the water longer than a week but I won’t be leaving my boat in the water over night let alone a week so no biggie here. That said, we sprayed a StarCraft aluminum boat with imron over thirty years ago and it’s still holding up perfectly fine and it sits in the water for the entire season every year. Plus as you said, it’s a spray and go system it’s much faster. It seems hard as heck I can’t scratch it with my fingernail. I used a 1.4 tip and fairly high pressure to spray it. I think I would thin it down even more and use a 1.2 tip if I was to shoot it again to get the flattest, smoothest finish possible.

Gel coat is a major pita to spray I had numerous struggles with it as I mentioned in this build. It must be cut and buffed and it’s a lot of work. There is the high gloss additive but again it’s not rated for below the water line. I was concerned about osmosis or gel chalking issue with it on the hull so I shied away from it because gel does take a lot of maintenance over time to stay looking good plus I have had gel become pin hole swollen before. Osmosis or whatever. My supplier said gel is porous and really only works great in a mould when the gel is mushed against the surface forcing a smooth bond between the large gel nodules. He said when it’s sprayed this benefit doesn’t happen and the gel nodules remain open which makes it easier and more likely to take on water damage over time. I don’t have any clue, that’s just what he told me and it sounded reasonable. With the duratec underneath it’s good to go anyways

what grit did you sand the duratec down to in order to except the paint and how much paint do you think I would need for my primer area on my bottom. I laid down 4 coats of the duratec primer and still have half a gallon left.

[LakeFever]

That paint covers very well I bought 3 quarts which is catalyzed 50/50 and I only used up a little more than 1 quart. If it’s just for the hull I’d guess two quarts ( plus two hardener of course ) would be plenty and leave you some for repairs. Make sure you get the quality recommended thinner and pay close attention to the tds regarding spray nozzle size, coats, and flash times. If you’re new to spray painting it’s pretty easy if you follow a simple rule. Only spray what you need to make one coat. One coat doesn’t mean one swipe with the spray gun it means one layer of paint. You want to get this down as smooth as possible without runs or sags. Once you have once coat down wait for the paint to flash which is almost dry. I always spray a little on my plastic or paper in the same amount as what I am painting and stick my finger in it to test for flash. If the paint does not stick to your finger? That’s sufficient flash time. If it’s still wet and sticks to your finger? If you shoot another coat on top you’ll get runs or orange peel. Some orange peel is inevitable it takes a lot of skill to spray a mirror glass finish.

When it comes to the second and third coats you have to watch closely and spray until paint is flat and stop there. The line between flat ( smooth, glossy ) and a run is very fine so tread lightly. If you don’t spray flat it will have a bit of orange peel but no runs. You can get a little more aggressive on the second and third coats with volume. The first tack coat is the easiest to run or sag so go easy and mist it down just enough to cover and let that tack up.

Surface finish before spraying you want to follow the tds on recommendations there and use interference pads under the paper always. Never use bare hands or fingers to sand the final prep you’ll see grooves under the paint. I like the dual density sponge/foam pads and fold the sheets around. I cut the duratec down with 180 using blocks. I like the durablocks for this I have an entire set they are great. Once I had the duratec cut I did the primer spot putty trick then iirc the endura was 240-320 recommended surface finish and I finished it at 320. For appearance quality always go for the finest suggested grit. Hope this is of some help for ya. A bit jumbled back forth in there but I’m typing quick

[Jmr1974]

That paint covers very well I bought 3 quarts which is catalyzed 50/50 and I only used up a little more than 1 quart. If it’s just for the hull I’d guess two quarts ( plus two hardener of course ) would be plenty and leave you some for repairs. Make sure you get the quality recommended thinner and pay close attention to the tds regarding spray nozzle size, coats, and flash times. If you’re new to spray painting it’s pretty easy if you follow a simple rule. Only spray what you need to make one coat. One coat doesn’t mean one swipe with the spray gun it means one layer of paint. You want to get this down as smooth as possible without runs or sags. Once you have once coat down wait for the paint to flash which is almost dry. I always spray a little on my plastic or paper in the same amount as what I am painting and stick my finger in it to test for flash. If the paint does not stick to your finger? That’s sufficient flash time. If it’s still wet and sticks to your finger? If you shoot another coat on top you’ll get runs or orange peel. Some orange peel is inevitable it takes a lot of skill to spray a mirror glass finish.

When it comes to the second and third coats you have to watch closely and spray until paint is flat and stop there. The line between flat ( smooth, glossy ) and a run is very fine so treat lightly. If you don’t spray flat it will have a bit of orange peel but no runs. You can get a little more aggressive on the second and third coats with volume. The first tack coat is the easiest to run or sag so tread lightly there.

Surface finish before spraying you want to follow the tds on recommendations there and use interference pads under the paper always. Never use bare hands or fingers to sand the final prep you’ll see grooves under the paint. I like the dual density sponge/foam pads and fold the sheets around. I cut the duratec down with 180 using blocks. I like the durablocks for this I have an entire set they are great. Once I had the duratec cut I did the primer spot putty trick then iirc the endura was 240-320 recommended surface finish and I finished it at 320. For appearance quality always go for the finest suggested grit. Hope this is of some help for ya. A bit jumbled back forth in there but I’m typing quick

where did you purchase the paint and hardener?

[LakeFever]

JMR I sent you a PM with info. Been poking away lately a few tasks. The swivel on my mid was a little loose on the bottom so I decided to pull it apart and inspect. I dont believe it was ever once greased so I have some rust around the bushing area. The pin is not trash but I have a parts motor Im pulling apart to get at the pin. I also made some mods to my rear seat to fit the rear and tank better. I got the foot throttle mounted and the rear light base in. A few other bits and pieces here and there.

[Jmr1974]

JMR I sent you a PM with info. Been poking away lately a few tasks. The swivel on my mid was a little loose on the bottom so I decided to pull it apart and inspect. I dont believe it was ever once greased so I have some rust around the bushing area. The pin is not trash but I have a parts motor Im pulling apart to get at the pin. I also made some mods to my rear seat to fit the rear and tank better. I got the foot throttle mounted and the rear light base in. A few other bits and pieces here and there.

I am going to try my luck with the gel coat. I ordered my stuff Wednesday, should be here today. I ordered it from express composites, I’m adding the duratec clear additive to the gel when I spray. Talked to a fellow who I ordered it from and about it and I feel fairly confident, fingers are crossed it turns out. Plan to spray Saturday.

[LakeFever]

Gel is the best if you can get it down well. Gel hates me or at least hates my boat. Two screw ups was enough. Hope you don’t face any of those challenges. Plenty of members got it done well so it’s definitely doable

[LakeFever]

Getting closer. New lifeline arrived today

[tnelsmn]

That's a nice battery mount, I was planning for a box as well and placed my battery in the same location. Well there was no way a battery box would fit there, I have a hard enough time just fitting the battery there.

Couldn't agree more with not jeprodisring the core to mount a bilge pump. I just glued down the base/mount with some 4200, its been holding for 3 years now.

Boat is looking great, Lake!

[Hippie459MN]

That's a nice battery mount, I was planning for a box as well and placed my battery in the same location. Well there was no way a battery box would fit there, I have a hard enough time just fitting the battery there.

Couldn't agree more with not jeprodisring the core to mount a bilge pump. I just glued down the base/mount with some 4200, its been holding for 3 years now.

Boat is looking great, Lake!

I have the same battery hold downs as he does here and they hold the batteries amazing. No boxes.

And I did the same thing with my bilge pump, I just 4200'ed the base down. No screws. Pretty certain it wont go anywhere.

[LakeFever]

Got the seat back from my buddy who did the upholstery for me. I was going to get the whole interior done custom but I scored a very nice condition set of seats from a Valero the guy was switching to lightweight center steer. The seats all match so I had the rear seat material cut and refit to the coosa bench frame I made. Turned out great and best of all it’s below the cap rail I don’t like the look of the foam roll that goes up and over sitting on top of the front of the splash well it ruins the vkings gorgeous lines. This guy was a class act he said it would take a month and a few days later it was done. I added an extension to the top of the seat so it meets flush with the front of the transom and clears my big fuel tank. Makes the seat look better too imo. Nice and light it’s surprising with that coosa how light this seems. I will weigh it before installing



Edit. Added a couple pics just sitting in place. I’m very pleased with the look and fit of this

[LakeFever]

Bilge pump mounted and plumbed. Fuel tank in

[Hippie459MN]

Is that bilge pump going to work properly laying on its side like that? If any part of that pick up is sucking air it wont really pump efficiently, or at all, until the whole thing is under water and by that time, that's going to be a lot of water in the boat. I have never mounted a bilge pump on its side or seen one on its side before. I do know my 120v drop in submersible pump I use for draining water in part of my yard when we get too much rain, if that get any air or tips over and start getting air, it will stop pumping water.

[LakeFever]

Appreciate you looking out for mistakes thank you. It’s a Johnson Low Boy bilge pump and made to mount that way. The pick up is on the bottom even though the pump is on its side. Made for low clearance applications like this. Check it out

https://www.spxflow.com/johnson-pump...le-bilge-pump/