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10-17-2023, 08:24 PM #16
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Thanks Joe! Sent you a PM!
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10-18-2023, 10:24 AM #17
5000 RPM
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10-18-2023, 11:13 AM #18
With 2.4 & 2.5 Race motors, I tend to stop motor, shift , start again
Paddles work
It's such a unique piece, original
Being a untouched unit it's worth some money
I had a talk with Gramps
He said Enjoy, it as is...

Add a small battery Lit, to starter side so your cranking with 24V, add some zip, doesn't hurt anything.
Did you ever check the compression?
Just adjust the butterfly, she don't open all the way you have less power, too simple.
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12-21-2023, 03:32 PM #19
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Thanks for all the inputs. I am going with a Mercury Formula Race 60. New motor is being built now and will be here in March. Just had a leak down on the current SST140 engine: #1, #2, #3, #5, #6 at 8%, #6 at 6%. SST140 motor is for sale, along with tons of spare parts.
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12-21-2023, 05:01 PM #20
I would think the racing gearcase is what would give you problems. Stock powerhead would run forever but those cases have to be serviced/inspected or they grenade. Personally I would not drive that type of tunnel 100 mph with a small case. Asking for a blow over.
1970 15' Allison/135 Chrysler stacker
RC Mod-VP Boats
IMPBA District 13
NAMBA District 3
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12-30-2023, 07:05 AM #21
you only need 24v for competition start or trim pump speed!
video of that thing flying with lotta volume would be a treat! don't change a thing until you have some!
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12-31-2023, 05:18 PM #22
5000 RPM
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Super cool
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