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  1. #16
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    I think the hose coming off your poppet plate with no poppet valve is dumping water from your 2-piece exhaust plate and dumping needed water to your block. You can plug that hose and test to see if you gain water to your heads. I believe the 2.4 bridgeports and Mod-Vp blocks came with Hipo 1-piece exhaust plates to handle the higher RPM's cooling needs.
    Last edited by Baker343; 08-16-2023 at 04:39 PM.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62 bugzilla View Post
    So I need to add a poppet housing to replace my 2 bolt plate with hose and install poppet valve design 2 in housing and re connect hose. Also add thermostats to to of heads instead of the restrictors and this will get water to top of heads and cool properly. Do I need to modify engine in any other way? I thought my area to the rear of the motor that the housing goes over is blocked off doesn’t it normally have a hole into block?
    This is your safest route and probably the easy fix. Keep your current poppet plate with a hose outlet and added the valve. You can plug the hole it if you don't need the extra water when at lower RPM's I think that's how they work. Test it first by plugging your current poppet dump hose. It may work with your washers.

    Just watch your water pressure if you're going to running it.

    Remove your poppet plate and you should be able to put your finger or something through and into your 2-piece plate.

    Adding thermostats will allow you to run in very cold water if you want.

    I probably have a and couple poppet plates and valves and can send to you if you can't find one.
    Last edited by Baker343; 08-16-2023 at 06:08 PM.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baker343 View Post
    This is your safest route and probably the easy fix. Keep your current poppet plate with a hose outlet and added the valvle. You can plug it if you don't need the extra water when at lower RPM's I think that's how they work. Test it first by plugging your current poppet dump hose. It may work with your washers.

    Just watch your water pressure if you're going to running it.

    Remove your poppet plate and you should be able to put your finger or something through and into your 2-piece plate.

    Adding thermostats will allow you to run in very cold water if you want.

    I probably have a and couple poppet plates and valves and can send to you if you can't find one.
    this sounds great and will try it and see what happens. I appreciate the offer on plate and valve and might take you up on it if this doesn’t work and have to add it.

  5. #19
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    Just looked at my 2.4 Mod-vp block and I'm assuming it's a 2 hole only poppet cover like yours.
    Now I'm confused because it does open up into the exhaust plate. Did mercury make a 2 bolt poppet cover with a poppet valve for the Hipo 2.4's on 2 peice plates or only 2 bolt dump plates for the 1 piece exhaust plates? Can you use a 4 bolt plate with poppet valve and just bolt it down with the 2 bolts.

  6. #20
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    Poppet valve

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	523305This is the part I don't know about. I thought they didn't run poppet valves and I had to modify was in 2 price case but you are second person to suggest poppet valve. Here's some pics that might help.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by 62 bugzilla; 08-16-2023 at 11:42 PM.

  7. #21
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    all "hi perf" motors ('cept tha pro max stuff, only steel motor outta hi perf. div.) came on one piece plates and NO poppet.. they aren't meant to run on two piece plates so ya gotta make 'em work with tha two piece by do tha coolin' system as if its a "production" motor...

    IF ITS ON A PRODUCTION TWO PIECE ADAPTER PLATE IT NEEDS TO HAVE A WORKING POPPET VALVE ASSY...... a design II assy. with tha two bolt holes (no bib on cover) would be desirable

    this is how it works...

    two piece plate = working poppet assy.... period, regardless of production or hi perf. motor
    one piece plate = no poppet assy. just cover... regardless of hi perf. or production motor... with one exception and that being a very rare factory 15" 225 pro max one piece adapter that uses a poppet assy motor.... period...

    jus to qualify the above.. if you know what and how to "modify" either type plate there are exceptions to the above.. but you better know exactly what you're doin'............. but also i'm sure there are some out there that have their trick way of "makin' it work" some way or another...................
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 08-17-2023 at 04:24 AM.

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  9. #22
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    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  10. #23
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    Well I'll be. Found this on one of my 83 2L blocks. Never really paid attention to the different types of poppets. Learned something again.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baker343 View Post
    Well I'll be. Found this on one of my 83 2L blocks. Never really paid attention to the different types of poppets. Learned something

    So I need the case and poppet valve for this assembly and it tstats back in place and I should then have water to top of heads and pressure on gauge. I can also pay attention to temp if I’m running at over 6500 for a period of time to make sure temp doesn’t climb since I think that’s why the one piece and no poppet is for racing applications which I will be using boat more recreational purposes anyway with a high rpm rip every once in awhile.

  12. #25
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    all of these were great especially the first one. Getting more of an idea what’s going on with this issue for sure.

  13. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62 bugzilla View Post
    and I should then have water to top of heads and pressure on gauge. I can also pay attention to temp if I’m running at over 6500 for a period of time to make sure temp doesn’t climb since I think that’s why the one piece and no poppet is for racing applications which I will be using boat more recreational purposes anyway with a high rpm rip every once in awhile.
    it may or may not be your problem... also tha one piece was for plated (chrome and/or nic) cylinder motors, like yours, not production steel motors... can be run with steel motors but with some modifications....

  14. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Speros View Post
    It looks like a powerhead got swapped. Bridgeport on stock mid like mentioned above. I am not saying the mods he mentioned are not gonna help. But I think that is more for top end flow. I still think a ramp test is in order as a good next move. I'm curious about your gearcase since its not a complete HP engine.

    Take a pic of it.
    I will take a picture of the lower unit tomorrow and I did try it I. The water and it got hot in short period of Time and no water out of the hose from the heads with just restrictors in them.
    Last edited by 62 bugzilla; 08-19-2023 at 10:14 AM.

  15. #28
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    like said before.. put it in tha water or ona hose.. pull that large plug right behind tha flywheel and check for flow (a lot) there.. if there is none ya have a problem between tha intakes and tha block.. that plug is tha first opening of water flow from tha pump...
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 08-18-2023 at 12:25 AM.

  16. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baker343 View Post
    Well I'll be. Found this on one of my 83 2L blocks. Never really paid attention to the different types of poppets. Learned something again.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    I found the corresponding poppet valve and plate for this set up on early 2.4 and it's actually called a relief valve and I ordered it and might try it with tsats and see what happens maybe good solution for my 2 piece plate on this motor. Thanks for you help.

  17. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    like said before.. put it in tha water or ona hose.. pull that large plug right behind tha flywheel and check for flow (a lot) there.. if there is none ya have a problem between tha intakes and tha block.. that plug is tha first opening of water flow from tha pump...
    will try this tomorrow. thanks

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