Sanding new Clear over Metal Flake?

**SCT** · 06-10-2023, 08:28 PM

I have an old fiberglass Checkmate bucket seat that I had a local guy spray new red metal flake and then clear.

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But he never finished the job by sanding/polishing the clear and we had a falling out.

So anyways, what is a good sanding/polishing schedule? The unfinished seat is on the left. The original one is on the right.

Thanks for any help!

**LakeFever** · 06-11-2023, 05:09 AM

Is it gel or paint? Can you feel any sharp edges of flake when you rub your hand over it?

**SCT** · 06-11-2023, 07:26 AM

No, it’s gel. I can’t feel any metal flake…..it’s just real rough clear on top. I’ve sanded on clear over the years but have never had to ‘knock’ it down like this project. I guess I’ll get the DA out today to cut down the high spots.

Thanks-

**LakeFever** · 06-11-2023, 12:02 PM

As long as the flake is completely buried your correct you start sanding away until flat then polish. Id suggest starting with 320 and keep a close eye on the little craters as you go down. When they get small start stepping up your grits probably 500, 800, 1200, can probably polish that up. If your after the best possible finish 3M has a polish system for gel that works great. Three stages of polish. Sand to whatever spec they or whatever polish your going with recommends. I also suggest interference pads instead of da when you get to the finer stages. Hand sanding takes longer and hurts more but makes the best end result imo.

good luck

**XstreamVking** · 06-11-2023, 01:26 PM

Find an edge that has been taped, or where you can sand down an edge w/o hurting anything and see what thickness of material you have to work with. I would say that 1/8'' is minimum for flake, covered well with clear ready to be sanded out to final finish w/0 breaking thru. A guide coat between each sanding step would help a lot too.