2-stroke head bolts - to lube or not?

**DanH** · 12-28-2022, 12:37 PM

Concerning steel bolts going into aluminum heads/block:
Do you lubricate the cylinder head bolts or not? If you do, what lube do you use? Oil, anti-seize? Do you adjust the bolt torque as a result?

**25two.stroke** · 12-28-2022, 12:43 PM

People will have other ways than mine.

My way:
oil the shoulder & washer
install all bolts on the head and lightly seat
Remove bolts 1 by 1 and put red Loctite on the threads.
now no loctite seeped onto the head/block surfaces, and the loctite acts as a lubricant as the bolt goes in.
35 ft lbs

Thats what I do with head bolts if and when (rarely) I use them instead of studs.

**LakeFever** · 12-28-2022, 02:35 PM

Do you use Red or blue? I think for head bolts Id use blue.

**rock** · 12-28-2022, 03:25 PM

Light oil. Put bolts in container with oil covering threads. Pull out one at a time and dab a bit of oil off bolt onto head as you put bolt in hole. Snug down finger tight then three rounds of torque to 35 lbs. after all bolts in place. Lots of different ways and ya have to use whatever works for you.

Rock

**Jim Speros** · 12-28-2022, 07:31 PM

Rock shared the way I was taught and the manual says. I always used 2 stroke oil.

**H2OPERF** · 12-28-2022, 07:55 PM

I usually re-torque tq after a few hrs of initial run time, the locktite would nix that. oil but sparingly you dont want to hydro lock the bolts in the bottom of the hole so i dont put any in the block threads, a little model paint brush works on the bolt thread..

**pcrussell50** · 12-28-2022, 11:16 PM

Originally Posted by 25two.stroke

People will have other ways than mine.

My way:
oil the shoulder & washer
install all bolts on the head and lightly seat
Remove bolts 1 by 1 and put red Loctite on the threads.
now no loctite seeped onto the head/block surfaces, and the loctite acts as a lubricant as the bolt goes in.
35 ft lbs

Thats what I do with head bolts if and when (rarely) I use them instead of studs.

This is a very interesting approach to me. Especially since I am educated as an engineer, (ie book smart, not practical smart), and not a mechanic. So here's why it is interesting to me... At least from the book nerd perspective... A properly torqued bolt needs to torqued far enough to be put into and kept in tension, or it may loosen.That means it has to be torqued to the point where it stretches a certain amount. But in the case of strong steel bolts going into soft aluminum threads, I'm not sure that is a good idea. Is the reason you use red loctite, due to the fact that you suspect the bolts aren't entering proper stretch to stay tight?

Also, maybe the loctite gets hot enough that it can be broken open without undue torque or heat, the next time the heads need to come off?

Just guessing here... Fascinated by your method. Thanks for sharing.

-Peter

**Chaz** · 12-29-2022, 10:08 AM

Light oil, 1st pull, 10 ft/lbs (120 in/lbs) 2nd pull, 20 ft/lbs (240 in/lbs) 3rd pull, plus 90 degree's ..

For those that can't get a grip (no pun) on that, there is , hi-pressure concrete, welding the heads on, green lock-tite, flex-seal, Belzona, A-B epoxy, fix-a-flat, hammer and nails, rivets, etc ...

**rgsauger** · 12-29-2022, 10:17 AM

Wait a sec, Chaz. Flex-seal doesn’t work in head gaskets. Leaks when it gets hot. Just sayin’….

**LakeFever** · 12-29-2022, 01:47 PM

How about head stud torque specs?

**Chaz** · 12-29-2022, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by rgsauger

Wait a sec, Chaz. Flex-seal doesn’t work in head gaskets. Leaks when it gets hot. Just sayin’….

Flex-seal is not for everyone.

Available everywhere lock-tite products are sold.

Easy to apply.

Cures in 24 hrs.

Dr. Cleetus scientifically tested.

Works with nitrous or boost.

Skip to 16:00 minutes for full results.

**25two.stroke** · 12-29-2022, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by LakeFever

How about head stud torque specs?

Not sure if you mean installing the studs or the nut torque on the studs.
Installing them in the block I have been told 2 ways...that are very different:
1. install and lightly snug with red loctite (ccms "rigid" method)
2. install with light oil, seat and then back off a 1/2 turn (ox performance "floating" method)

The nuts I've torqued anywhere from 30 lbs all the way to 50...never had an issue except with one bad batch of studs I got which were crystalline and snapping at 20 ft-lb or less. I do the nuts dry

**DanH** · 12-29-2022, 08:44 PM

Originally Posted by rock

Light oil. Put bolts in container with oil covering threads. Pull out one at a time and dab a bit of oil off bolt onto head as you put bolt in hole. Snug down finger tight then three rounds of torque to 35 lbs. after all bolts in place. Lots of different ways and ya have to use whatever works for you.

Rock

This is the method I used. I will re-torque after a few hrs run time.

**FUJIMO** · 12-29-2022, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by Chaz

Light oil, 1st pull, 10 ft/lbs (120 in/lbs) 2nd pull, 20 ft/lbs (240 in/lbs) 3rd pull, plus 90 degree's ..

...this procedure. red loctite head bolts into an aluminum o/b block? no...

**Chaz** · 12-30-2022, 09:32 AM

Originally Posted by FUJIMO

...this procedure. red loctite heads bolts into an aluminum o/b block? no...

I saw in the "misc. parts for sale" .. that 3.0L lower units don't use a key to keep the carrier from spinning .. then posting a picture of a few carriers .. all with key slots ..

Chaz = thinkin, the 2022 award for "most bogus information" can only go to the guy on the west coast, who is head and shoulders above anyone else in this catagory ..