New to me Mariner 200

**thesignguy** · 09-04-2022, 11:43 AM

So the wife and I made the 19 hour (1050mi) round trip to grab this one. I'm told it is a 1986 2.4 200, looking up the serial number I can't find much as far as specs. Can any one confirm by the tag and pictures what I have? (Serial Number 6626208) and no number on the welch? plug on the block just a "W".

Stupid me

did not realize it was a 25" lower until I got there, no turning back at that point. It will need to be a 20" lower and still have the 84? lower from the 150. I think I read that the 25" shaft can be cut but not sure the most cost effective way to go about that is. I assume the 200 and the 150 have the 1.87 ratios, I included a picture of the stamp on the mid if that helps (1590-8334)

**pcrussell50** · 09-04-2022, 12:34 PM

Get some acetone and clean the grime off the Welch plug... It might shed some light. Mine were all
covered in yellowish grime/varnish. Cleaning them with acetone helped a lot.

Don't give up hope. These things have suddenly become rare as hen's teeth and you should expect to put some work and $$$ into it to get it right. I'm in the same boat (pun intended) as you. With S&F to help, We'll get to these things sorted out.

-Peter

**FUJIMO** · 09-04-2022, 01:00 PM

...good motors. yes, that's a 25'' shaft motor. just pull off the 5'' spacer & remove the 25'' studs & install the 20'' studs. shorter copper water pump tube also...

**thesignguy** · 09-04-2022, 01:12 PM

Originally Posted by FUJIMO

...good motors. yes, that's a 25'' shaft motor. just pull off the 5'' spacer & remove the 25'' studs & install the 20'' studs. shorter copper water pump tube also...

So the shaft does not need to be cut? Just the water pump tube and studs? Any idea as to where i can get the 20" studs?

**thesignguy** · 09-04-2022, 01:19 PM

I really wish I had more experience with these older merc outboards, but I'm learning. I don't mind breaking stuff as long as I can fix it, paying someone else to fix it leaves a pain in my gut that lasts for weeks... LOL. I don't think I did bad on the deal, it's still in the back of the truck until I make room and get the 150 off the stand. I'll look a little harder for the stamp once it's unloaded.

**pcrussell50** · 09-04-2022, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by thesignguy

I really wish I had more experience with these older merc outboards, but I'm learning. I don't mind breaking stuff as long as I can fix it, paying someone else to fix it leaves a pain in my gut that lasts for weeks... LOL. I don't think I did bad on the deal, it's still in the back of the truck until I make room and get the 150 off the stand. I'll look a little harder for the stamp once it's unloaded.

the studs are widely available: Pro Marine, boats.net, Crowley, ebay, pretty much all the standard parts outlets. Same places you might buy switch boxes or water pump and carb kits.

if you do the studs, you should be able to drop that power head onto your existing 150mid and go boating. Then you can take your time getting shafts and water tubes cut and all that business.

-Peter

**thesignguy** · 09-04-2022, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by pcrussell50

if you do the studs, you should be able to drop that power head onto your existing 150mid and go boating. Then you can take your time getting shafts and water tubes cut and all that business.

-Peter

Sorry, I should have searched the LU studs before asking... I see they are easy to get. The problem with the 150 mid is it has the old 1 ram trim and the motor is dead and those are pricey even if you can find one. LOL. And on the 150 LU I never went through it, I assume it will slide into the 200 powerhead?

Can the cowling be changes from the clam-shell to a fit-over?

**David - WI** · 09-04-2022, 02:06 PM

I'm confused... but it seems to me you remove the 5" spacer and put the 150 lower unit on the 200. Otherwise you have to pull the 200 lower apart and have the driveshaft cut & resplined plus shorten or buy the right shift shaft & water tube?

**pcrussell50** · 09-04-2022, 02:16 PM

Originally Posted by thesignguy

Sorry, I should have searched the LU studs before asking... I see they are easy to get. The problem with the 150 mid is it has the old 1 ram trim and the motor is dead and those are pricey even if you can find one. LOL. And on the 150 LU I never went through it, I assume it will slide into the 200 powerhead?

Can the cowling be changes from the clam-shell to a fit-over?

Your 200 power head should fit directly on your 150 mid. But … Now is the time to begin making the distinction between mid and lower. The lower is the gear box/nose cone. The mid is the “can” or leg in between the power head and the lower. Your 25 has a 5” spacer between the lower unit and the mid section. Pull the lower unit pull the spacer. What you will have left is a regular old 20” mid again. Use the lower unit from your 150 while you attend to the shortening of the drive shaft and either shorten or replace the water tube with one from a 20.

As for the cowl, I will give you a categorical, probably.

The reason I say so is that my 2.4/200 is a 1990 from one piece cowl era and it has been fitted the opposite… the previous owner set it up with the two piece clamshell.

HTH

-Peter

**thesignguy** · 09-04-2022, 03:25 PM

This is why I want the 1 piece:

**pcrussell50** · 09-04-2022, 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by David - WI

I'm confused... but it seems to me you remove the 5" spacer and put the 150 lower unit on the 200. Otherwise you have to pull the 200 lower apart and have the driveshaft cut & resplined plus shorten or buy the right shift shaft & water tube?

This is probably my fault for adding to the confusion. I brain farted and forgot all about removing the spacer between the lower and the mid. This would be MUCH easier. Sorry to confuse. I will edit my post and hopefully nobody else will be misled by it.

-Peter