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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96Javelin409 View Post
    Ok cool and is the .106 the inside diameter? and do they have to stick out any or should they be flush or what? does it matter how far down into the tube they go?
    Yes 106.. i have mine stick out(leave it the jet length) Dont go any farther then the plastic is.. in other words dont go farther than tbe plastic is thick there..

    Actually dont know never used one so im useless there.

  2. #17
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    So I think I should probably play the lotto today. Was measuring everything and was going to make the pullovers out of some 3/16 brass rods I had left over from another project when I realized the measurements were awfully similar to the pullovers and after looking at the 106 stamped on them and factory carbs pics on the internet I'm pretty sure I already have the 106 pullovers...here's a pic:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Crazy because I've never had a looper before this and all my carbs have them so I just figured that's how they looked.

  3. #18
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    Looks like it.. Hey ill go half on that lotto. Lol

  4. #19
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    Some different carbs came with the pull overs from the factory. If you want more performance from your 200 start by finding some 96 up 225 carbs ( some were listed on S and F) Since you are on a heavy bass boat you need to be very careful with amount of compression and make sure it will turn at least 6k. If you dont have experience jetting these IMO better to just install the carbs with factory jetting and work on your set up for more performance. If you do mod the engine it really helps them to do the proper cooling mods which involves removing 3 factory diverters and machining block to except 6 others, plugging a couple holes and adding some new ones. Problem is most dont understand how to do this mod correctly. Some reverse cool the heads but without these other mods that does very little to even out block temps.

    Also the late 95 and newer use a different air box that does not have a baffle and the carbs jet differently than the earlier ones.

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  6. #20
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    I just found that listing for the 225 carbs, only reason I hadn't done that is every time I look I can never find them haha. I feel pretty confident in rejetting this, I've done rejetting/tuning before and know how to read everything (plus lots of other info/pics on here helps) I just figured if somebody had done something similar i could narrow down the range so i didn't waste a bunch of money on jets i wouldn't need or that I can't find anyways. Basically figured that if I could expect to run a certain range of jets and couldn't find them I'd probably just not do the mod so that way I wouldn't be stuck with a mod I couldn't throw enough fuel at and not be able to use my boat, putting the cart before the horse kinda thing.

    I tried looking into the cooling system mod but never really found any good instructions/photos so I'm at a bit of a loss there which I totally understand, I'm sure somebody spent a lot of time and money figuring all that out. I noticed about the newer airbox when I was looking at mine yesterday to see what I'd have to gut but I was wondering what else could possibly be removed and was thinking to myself "what the heck do they consider a baffle?".

    I'm also definitely going to be looking into a different prop for starters, I've been less than thrilled with renegade 26p on it that's been on it since I bought the boat. It does OK but nothing like what I'm looking for.

  7. #21
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    IMO start with a 24 Raker2 and 6 inch plate. When jetting these you need to read the pistons not the plugs, seen many who thought they could jet these burn them down. The cooling mod to 2.7 heads to run on a closed deck block has been explained but that is only the head and what many do. The cooling mod I am talking about helps to even block temp from top to bottom as they are considerably cooler at the bottom on stock cooling. Like I mentioned some have reversed cooled the heads because they seen a couple of us had done this but did not know what was done inside. Problem I have seen is people see the block cooling mod and do the new dividers but do not plug the original passage to around cylinder ( still needs a small hole so block drains) and then add the new ones to redirect water flow. A couple of us did a lot of work to get this working correctly and done wrong is an even bigger issue.

  8. #22
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    Ok I'll definitely start looking for that prop as I had also seen it recommended from other people on 409 setups. I have read that about reading the piston color on these (think it was looking for a coke color? would have to look back at some of the threads I've saved) immediately after a WOT run and shutting the engine down with throttle still wide open. I don't have anybody local to me that has any experience on these specific engines so I guess if I end up having to blow it up to learn it is what it is, have to learn somehow I guess unless somebody more experienced than I am with these that's not local could go off borsecope pics of the piston but then nobody is going to want the responsibility of doing it remotely like that so I'm kind of stuck there. I know which cooling mod you're speaking of, that's the big one I've read a lot about but couldn't find any detailed info/pics on really. When you say reverse cooling what are you referring to? Reversing the flow of the cooling circuit in the block?
    Last edited by 96Javelin409; 08-21-2022 at 10:48 AM.

  9. #23
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    No it's reverse flow on heads, top of block to bottom of head then up the head and out, the issue is then you dont have a thermostat and IMO for non racing use not how I would do it. Like I said on the cooling mod, most miss the plugging of the lower passage and almost impossible to get a photo of as very difficult to even see it and you have to make the tools to do it properly.

  10. #24
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    Got ya, well I'll probably avoid doing that then. Have an offer in on the set of 225 carbs so hopefully that goes through.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Looks like it.. Hey ill go half on that lotto. Lol
    haha so hey the 2.7 heads got delivered today and I'm looking into what I need to get to convert the cooling system over, what thermostat covers are you using? All I can find info on are the 70hp 0329829 covers which sub to 0333967 and are like 50 bucks a pop...wondering if there's an alternative?

  12. #26
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    Need the 70 covers, gaskets and springs.

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  14. #27
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    Ok cool do these part numbers look right? I found them in an older thread (I did notice a couple part numbers sub), and then just the factory style 140 degree thermostats (0434137) I guess? I figure I may as well put new ones in.

    (2) of 0329829 COVER,
    (2) of 0329831 SPRING, Relief valve
    (2) of 0329830 GASKET, Thermostat cover

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