1983 Vking rebuild

[XstreamVking]

I thought it would jump on plane. Nice... I would check the alignment of the engine as to why it leans left under power. Just a quarter of on inch can cause a lean on a light boat. Find center of pad and be sure that the bullet is exactly centered and engine is square to centerline.

[VkingMike]

I thought it would jump on plane. Nice... I would check the alignment of the engine as to why it leans left under power. Just a quarter of on inch can cause a lean on a light boat. Find center of pad and be sure that the bullet is exactly centered and engine is square to centerline.

I'll be checking this tonight. I know the transom holes are square, but there is some play in jackplate to motor holes where I could have that off a little. Thanks for the reply.

[LakeFever]

Looks great from the drivers seat. Ive never seen the trident scheme from that vantage point it looks like an arrow. So cool!

[OnPad]

Congrats on a job well done.
Your lean to the left is probably prop torque. You might end up with the battery on the starboard side to level her out a bit.

[VkingMike]

Thanks everyone. So I did some measuring and the bullet or nose cone is dead center on the pad. So I'm guessing it's propeller torque and a light hull. It's not as noticeable as I trim up, but it's not ideal either. Might need to shift some weight.

It likely wasn't as pronounced before when the drivers seat was on the starboard side vs now being center steering

[tnelsmn]

Looks great! Glad to see it back in the water.

Do you have a torque tab on the skeg? Might help with the lean.

[VkingMike]

Looks great! Glad to see it back in the water.

Do you have a torque tab on the skeg? Might help with the lean.

I do not, that is an easy enough thing to try out for sure. I noticed with more weight in the boat, its less noticeable

[rjdubiel]

I do not, that is an easy enough thing to try out for sure. I noticed with more weight in the boat, its less noticeable

bust out the bondo and put a tab on the starboard side of the skeg! problem will be solved I would think.

[OnPad]

I don't know about bondo? PC•7 thickened epoxy works well for tabs, and nose cones. A little thicker than the stuff Bob's sends out with their nose cone kit.
I'm still going to say some starboard weight shift will help.

[rjdubiel]

Bondo will work just fine to test it. Works fine if you don't keep the boat in the water all the time (just day trips then out of the water to the trailer). Prime and paint and call it a day. Also P-17 works well from Adtech if you want to feel better about it!

[VkingMike]

Sent my lower unit off for a nose cone and prop shaft straightening. I've got 26 and 28 big ears to test once its back, probably starting at center of the pad. Does that sound about right?

[OnPad]

Good call. Start there and move up in small increments.
It will be like a different boat with the motor jacked up.

[LakeFever]

The bunny has threads on set up. Ive read its not flying to the max until your 2 1/2” above the pad. Havent tried this yet myself because i havent had a lwp on any of my streams til this one. I would just keep raising watching water pressure and be EXTREMELY cautious as you familiarize yourself with the prop you like best and inch up but by bit on speed.

Outasite has raced his stream since new and he said to make passes tweaking the height and trim until you have it good then leave it there for the days passes.

[tnelsmn]

Engine height is going to have a bunch of variables. Boat weight etc. My best runs yet has been prop shaft CL 7/8" above pad. I went higher and lost bite on the prop, way more slip and less speed. But my hull is on the heavy side.

Like has been said before, start with the prop shaft CL even with the pad and work your way up.

[XstreamVking]

Also, you run 2.5 inches above, you will need a very good prop to take advantage of it