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  1. #1
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    Handling tips & tricks...

    So the more seat time in the fun zone I get, the more I respect I have for the guys who can truly hang a boat out and run up in the top end consistently and at least quasi-safely.

    I'm really trying to understand what the boat is saying and doing and why. I would appreciate any and all input from the fast guys on here as to tips, tricks, things to watch for, etc.

    Also....there's a spot around 55-60 mph or so where the back of the boat feels "greasy" and kind of wants to slide to the right for lack of a better description. It gets up on pad around 63-64 so maybe this is just a transition? It feels unnerving and like it might want to hook a little. As speed increases and trim comes up higher, this goes away. What the heck is causing that? Motor too low?

    Trim...are you guys using indicators or just trimming by feel? I'm doing by feel now but seem to take forever to get it really up high because I'm scared of overtrimming. Thoughts?

    Thanks

    Rob
    Last edited by rgsauger; 06-21-2020 at 09:13 AM.
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  2. #2
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    When I was learning to drive my Allison I read and read about how to drive it. The one thing that everyone said was to make sure the steering was absolutely tight. I thought mine was but in reality it wasn't. If you can rock your motor left to right by hand at all its not tight! I remember I struggled getting it on the pad and was trying to ease into it at that speed. David Shooks advice to others was...just nail it! I must say I did that a few times and it worked for me. But,,,, be safe!!

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  4. #3
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    Your telling my story, which is likely the same story we all have. The steering is critical and powering through that transition is far easier than easing over it. The slip sideways effect sounds like paddle wheeling which my old boat did a LOT when I was trying to figure out how to drive it. Very unnerving, try a different prop. Im sure others have a lot more to offer Im still new at this as well. When in doubt get out of the throttle and try another run
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  6. #4
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    My V-King is a handful since I removed all the hook. Very touchy, but fast. I have always used the "step" method when teaching new pad bottom drivers. Go up in speed until the boat starts to get unsettled. Leave the power level there. Drive the boat like that for a while. Starts to get comfortable, step it up a little more. You get the idea i'm sure. This is the only safe way to get it done IMO. I am always amused to hear that "I just can't drive it". But after an hour or so the tach is saying otherwise. It may take hours of seat time to be able to just pin it and drive it. Been driving go fast since early 70's and still do this myself when getting into another fast boat. Key is to be able to detect when the boat needs driver imput and how much. Do all this with the trim neutral. The up trim button is the last function to learn. That, is something that varies with wind, water conditions and even prop selection. Some never learn it is also the crash button.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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  8. #5
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    X, when you say do this at neutral trim, I don't have a working trim gauge right now. I guess I need to fix that, huh? Level my hull like doing prop to pad measurement, level motor, Mark on gauge? Use that as starting point?

    So when it comes to trim, how do you know when it's just right vs too much, without getting wet? Or when to go for one more bump?

    I have had it to 77 mph and it had more but honestly I think I got a little lucky. I don't want to just be lucky. I want to be reasonably in control and have my skills match my speed.
    Last edited by rgsauger; 06-21-2020 at 10:52 PM.
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  9. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by capteliminator View Post
    When I was learning to drive my Allison I read and read about how to drive it. The one thing that everyone said was to make sure the steering was absolutely tight. I thought mine was but in reality it wasn't. If you can rock your motor left to right by hand at all its not tight! I remember I struggled getting it on the pad and was trying to ease into it at that speed. David Shooks advice to others was...just nail it! I must say I did that a few times and it worked for me. But,,,, be safe!!
    Nailing it through that greasy spot is kinda what I normally do.

    How do I know when I need to go higher on my motor?
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  10. #7
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    Please check my post in technical

    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...should-it-have

    I do have about .100" axial play in my cylinder and I have bled it 5 times.
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  11. #8
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    So how much do folks rely on a trim gauge to get it close and then feel it the final bit? Or do you count up trim bumps on the switch? Or just feel it all the way?
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  12. #9
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    Get a functioning trim gauge. Theres no reason to not know where you're set. Some boats need a lot more trim than others. I've only been driving go fast boats for about 4 yrs. Yes, you can feel where a boat is happy but for a few $$ why would you not have a guage as a reference point? My Seebold needs tons of trim. Like hold the lever for 4 seconds solid as you come on plane. My buddy's stv needs just a couple touches. My bullet is in between. When I put a 280 on my seebold I had no gauge since theres no place to install a trim sender. I bought a mechanical gauge and really like knowing exactly where it is. There's enough risk running these boats, no reason to add to it by guessing where you're set. As far as driving tips, for a pad v, take the time to get your weight somewhat balanced side to side. My bullet center console is nearly impossible for me to keep on the pad with 2 people unless we each move over about 5 or 6 inches to opposite side of passenger. I have about 45 pounds added to the opposite side which counteracts my 2 batteries on one side vs the other. Running alone is quite easy to balance. With 2 people, I'd say it's nearly impossible unless we move over some to center the load. If your driving a side console by yourself your weight may be way off. Like I said, I'm no expert, but feel like I've learned a bit along the way.
    Bullet CC w/ 225 Promax - Sold
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    25 Liberator "The Battleship" Sold
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  14. #10
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    Trim is always something I have done by feel and sound. You can hear when the hull is gaining air and you can feel when it’s getting too loose. On my stream I drive through that wet to pad transition pretty fast and then roll up easier from there pending conditions and whatnot. Trim is the last thing I do and I have blinker style on the wheel. One or two tiny blips is all I do and all the boat likes. Anymore than that just points the nose up doesn’t seem to go any faster plus that feel? Doesn’t feel right it definitely puts hairs on end. Sounds like you need more seat time and build your relationship with that hull. Gotta get it programmed into you so you are not guessing or wondering what’s going on but familiar with what it needs.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  16. #11
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    Some boats do like and need a lot of trim. BUT.....When positioned at an angle to the linear flow of the water, the lower /prop is less than 100% efficient. Look at my sig pic, that is where you want the boats trim to be for the best "push". This was shot running the mid 80's and you can see the individual beats of the prop in the roost. It is hooked up. No wasted energy. You see a tall roost, that's wasted energy. Some boats can get away with it provided they have plenty of power to spare.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  18. #12
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    Agreed, get a trim gauge.

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  20. #13
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    Ive always had a trim gauge, use it mostly for skiing tho lol. My old glastron knock off like a TON of trim, heck I could run it up to the tilt cylinder and it still went alright. My stream doesnt like much trim at all, or maybe its me not liking it haha. Im on #3 now, and the first two I hardly touched the trim. I have had some challenges getting the engine height exactly right though, so a jackplate gauge is going in the new one.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #14
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    Never had a trim ga... Or jack plate ga. I guess i'm a seat of the pants flyer...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  23. #15
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    I have the blinker style trim and love it. could not imagine trying to trim on the shifter.

    Those are good points about balance. I run solo 95% of the time so might be worth moving my batteries around to shift weight to pass side.

    I'll get the trim gauge working to at least have a clue of "you were here last time and lived" settings, lol. When I REALLY learn it, I'll remove it in tribute to Xstream!
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

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