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  1. #1
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    260 charging check

    Anyone know the procedure to check the battery charging components of a 16 amp 260? Motor otherwise runs good but puts out nothing, even at 7500 for extended periods. I have a DVA, but I'm not sure what the reading should be for this system. The system is totally stock with separate rectifier and regulator.

  2. #2
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    volts at rectifier running

  3. #3
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    I’ve always checked voltage at starter sylinoid positive cable from battery and ground at starter bolt from battery with a fluke volt meter , battery with everything off should read 12.5-12.7 volts , crank the motor and idle it up to over 1500 it should be 13.5volts or higher , a 260 charging system isn’t to hardy if the voltage reads lower it points to the stator not generating charging voltage , is you tach jumping around ? If it is replace rectifier if not my guess is stator isn’t making the trip...

    Jay

    Jay @ JSRE


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  5. #4
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    Checked a few things with the engine at 2000 rpm - voltage at the solenoid is 12.4 with the engine off, and 12.0 with it running. The two yellow stator lines at the rectifier read 50v and 28v to ground. Tach is working correctly.

    I'm thinking the stator is bad :-( Do you guys normally go with the stock replacement or a different one? Looks like CDI sells a replacement for $200.

  6. #5
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    I like OEM electrics , just my opinion ...

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


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  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by eli View Post
    volts at rectifier running
    What should the volts b on a good 16 system.
    I'm currently checkin mine out to. Those #s b great

  9. #7
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    Read post # 3
    Jay @ JSRE


  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Smith View Post
    Read post # 3
    He said he had a 50v and a 28v lead off rectifier, so is he that off at 50 and 28 ??

  11. #9
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    If one has 12.4 not running and less than that at rpms to me that pretty obvious your engine is “operating” off the battery supply not the current you would want coming from s charging source . If you checked at the true point of battery charging points and showed a depletion in voltage as this one did I’d be replacing the stator . But as I said earlier the 16 amp charging systems is not the hardyist system for charging an outboard with bunches of electrical do dads attachments..

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


  12. #10
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    That's what it looks like to me as well. But everyone says that these 16 amp systems don't make enough power to charge the battery, and I'm sure that's the case in many situations depending on what you're running. If they're right, then there's no need for that regulator that Merc installed. So I was hoping to find out what the test procedure is. This is a race boat that spends most of its time above 6500.

    Either way, I have new rectifier and stator being delivered today.

  13. #11
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    I don't run the voltage regulator. Just the recitfier, it allows the voltage to creep up a little above 4000RPM, but so far it has worked good for my set up. I have heard this only works with standard deep cycle deep cycle batteries. If you have special batteries you may not what to charge them with more then 15 volts.
    Whitney Woolard
    Oregon/Washington
    '96 Allison XB2003 w/Mercury 2.5 260ss

  14. #12
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    I haven’t ever ran a voltage regulator on ANY 260 I’ve ever built ...

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


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  16. #13
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    Is that a JSRE STICKER I see on that motor Whitney

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


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  18. #14
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    Easiest way to check if rectifier is OK is to swap tach lead to other half. If tach then starts acting up, rectifier is bad.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  19. #15
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    I swapped out the rectifier for a new one and it looks like my problem is gone. DVA voltage on both stator leads now reads around 16 instead of 50/28 and voltage at the battery cables rises with the engine running. I may try running without the regulator hooked up to see how that goes as well.

    Thanks for all the help!

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